CR123A lights

I've done some searching on this subject, especially because I am a fan of 123A lights, and I haven't been able to come up with a conclusive answer. What is the strongest 1-CR123A or R123A light and the strongest 2-CR123A or R123A light under $100. Just curious. Possibly some fenix? A modded light? I looked at the P2D and that is one of the strongest(180 lum) that I could find. Any others that people know of? Thanks for the help,

M16a

There are probably hotter CR123A lights around, but the Fenix designs provide an excellent balance of output, runtime, reliability, efficiency, great user interface, and are among the hottest. And reasonably priced, and well supported at Fenix Store, where there is an 8% discount for CPFers.

So my recommendation would be, uh. let me think....

so...any fenix then,running a single 123?
I have just purchased an ultrafire WF-C6S from dx at $25
great item looks good very bright etc...
I'd be happy to spend the extra $ for a fenix if I thought I was getting value for money.... anyone reckon this would be the case?

It's your money, but if you are looking for assurance, YES. Any P1D or P2D would be good, depending on your preference for switch. Not the early P1 models, though (lux only, less refined twisty switch..).

Hard to go wrong with Fenix, but check out Olight CR123s too.

T1 and Tektite, although I'm not sure if Tektite makes a CR123...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WvhJWE3_Oc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vf09Lolfwk

Just some food for thought:

This thread already has great suggestions and I'm sure more are coming but if it's total output you're after, it's starting to look like these P7 emitters are going to please (or annoy):naughty: a lot of folks here. Everyone is going to have to start their collection all over again!

I suggest you get a little something to hold you over for now (a Fenix P3D or one of those new JetBeam's?) and sit tight for the next wave of P7 based lights. I'm tempted even to cancel my order for that 18650 JetBeam IBS for the same reason! I'm turning my boss into a flashaholic and I pre-ordered 2 of those for us and he ordered some batteries for both so it would be awkward now for me to cancel but seriously . . . I kind of want to!!

However, the P7's draw about twice the current which will halve your runtime. There's probably no way around that. I bet the most popular lights for us will be 18650 versions.

That brings up a good point . . . Does anyone know the "C" rating of your typical CR123? Can it put out 3 amps continuously?

Does anyone know the "C" rating of your typical CR123? Can it put out 3 amps continuously?

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Yes, for a short time ... connect an ammeter (using the ammeter as the load) and a fresh CR123 will just hit 10a ... and immediately start to get warm.

The top end for continuous output seems to be 1a, plus or minus. Much above this, the polymer shut-down separator in the battery will start to melt.

Strongest?
Like sprinting, or marathon running.

123A batteries have the PTC limiter, and flashlights like the Fenix are not supposed to be run continuously on Turbo (depending on ambient temperature)

and then beam distribution? Have you seen what happens when you put that plano-convex converging lens on? They light up things really far away

So do you want the 'best' or what is best for you?

So then I would bet that when we start seeing hard driven P7 lights on CR123's they'll either have their batteries in parallel or they'll be nice handwarmers before they melt down?

Well then this is good, really! This means that WE (we as in "us" not Wolf Eyes) will be the only people using P7's because the manufacturers who market for wide appeal and simplicity will avoid hard driven P7's because of the high current draw!! :devil:

have their batteries in parallel

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Most likely, the batteries will be in series.

3v x 1a = 3 watts (battery, not LED, power)

6v x 1a = 6 watts

9v x 1a = 9 watts

A light using two or three CR123's in series (or two or three in series/parallel) should provide enough energy for high output.

Just out of genuine curiosity, what do you folks use ultra-high powered pocket lights for? I carry my E1B (80 lumens) when I go for walks at night and consider that enough light for nearly anything I'm likely to encounter. I guess that most new lights (LED) have a low mode as well but what do you use >150 lumens for? I see many drop-ins and customs lately that are > 300 lumens and I just cannot see myself needing that much light in my pocket. I'd rather see the trend toward more runtime instead of more output. I used to consider my SF 6P (60 lumens) to be my pocket spotlight and would LOVE to see a 60 lumen pocket light with 20-30 hours of runtime instead of 300 lumens for 1/2-1 hour.

But if you can only safely and continuously draw 1 amp from a CR123, you can put as many in series as you want and still have that 1 amp limiation. When you put them in parallel, you have the same voltage as 1 cell but then can draw 2 amps.

So if you took an M6 and put 3 parallel twice (2S3P) you would have 6 volts and 3 continuous amps available.

All of that is based on what you said about only being able to draw 1 amp continuous from a CR123.