mudman cj
Flashlight Enthusiast
I pulled this out of my Q3 EDC because I now also carry a somewhat floody AAA EDC (Extreme III), and I wanted to make my Q3 have more of a spot so I switched it to a Cree. The two lights had such similar beams that it seemed redundant to carry both. This light engine produces a very bright, smoothly transitioned beam with generous spill. I love this light for walking in the woods when you want to see where you are stepping and for general EDC, especially indoors. This LED has a warm tint that is my favorite of any LED I have ever seen, and this includes many Crees, SSCs, Luxeon IIIs, Vs, and even 3 Rebels. I actually hate to sell it, but have to start saving for an expensive light. 
I mounted the Seoul USVOI bin LED (purchased in this thread) to this custom turned, massive copper heat sink using Arctic Alumina slow cure ceramic epoxy. I used two very thin layers and assured electrical isolation but good heat transfer. There are also epoxy pads under the LED leads to protect against shorts to the heat sink. The Bad Boy Nex Gen 917 mA converter board from the shop will make for a bright light with either primaries or rechargeables. It is possible to change the current value of this circuit if you can replace the surface mount current sense resistors. Resistor value vs. current can be found at the Sandwich Shoppe. It could, for example, be converted to 500 mA by removing R2.
As you can see in the pics, the heat sink is one solid piece of pure copper, and the circuit is securely soldered to a thin brass washer that allows the use of a 0.55" circuit board in a 0.75" light like the Q3 (well, the circuit boards are 0.75" anyway). The LED is well centered. I am not able to measure more than a 0.002" deviation from the center of the heat sink to the LED case. All you need to use this in a Q3 is to remove some metal off of the back of the stock reflector using sandpaper, file, or a Dremel. This allows the emitter to reach far enough into the Q3 reflector to be at the focal point and prevents the reflector from pressing into the LED. Do not tighten the reflector down onto the LED. If the reflector reaches the LED then you have not removed enough of it or have not tightened the heat sink into place using the stock black plastic ring. Modders usually report needing to take off 0.030". I think I took that much off of mine, but it's been a while...:thinking:
One other thing. This circuit works very well with a 2 stage switch to provide extended runtime at a lower output level which is selectable by the resistor value used on the switch. I used this light engine with a 22.1 Ohm resistor for the low, and it was just right.
Price is $35 shipped anywhere by USPS First Class. Insurance is available. First to post "I'll take it" has priority for up to 24 hours. Paypal accepted - PM for address. Not responsible for lost shipments if insurance is not purchased.
Edit: I will also offer to install this in a QIII if the buyer throws in an extra $5 for shipping the light back to them after I have finished the installation. I can even give the light a second stage as an option for another $5. It can be insured as well if the buyer wants to add that on.
Here are some pics. The white stuff is some heat transfer compound that won't hurt anything.
SOLD!
I mounted the Seoul USVOI bin LED (purchased in this thread) to this custom turned, massive copper heat sink using Arctic Alumina slow cure ceramic epoxy. I used two very thin layers and assured electrical isolation but good heat transfer. There are also epoxy pads under the LED leads to protect against shorts to the heat sink. The Bad Boy Nex Gen 917 mA converter board from the shop will make for a bright light with either primaries or rechargeables. It is possible to change the current value of this circuit if you can replace the surface mount current sense resistors. Resistor value vs. current can be found at the Sandwich Shoppe. It could, for example, be converted to 500 mA by removing R2.
As you can see in the pics, the heat sink is one solid piece of pure copper, and the circuit is securely soldered to a thin brass washer that allows the use of a 0.55" circuit board in a 0.75" light like the Q3 (well, the circuit boards are 0.75" anyway). The LED is well centered. I am not able to measure more than a 0.002" deviation from the center of the heat sink to the LED case. All you need to use this in a Q3 is to remove some metal off of the back of the stock reflector using sandpaper, file, or a Dremel. This allows the emitter to reach far enough into the Q3 reflector to be at the focal point and prevents the reflector from pressing into the LED. Do not tighten the reflector down onto the LED. If the reflector reaches the LED then you have not removed enough of it or have not tightened the heat sink into place using the stock black plastic ring. Modders usually report needing to take off 0.030". I think I took that much off of mine, but it's been a while...:thinking:
One other thing. This circuit works very well with a 2 stage switch to provide extended runtime at a lower output level which is selectable by the resistor value used on the switch. I used this light engine with a 22.1 Ohm resistor for the low, and it was just right.
Price is $35 shipped anywhere by USPS First Class. Insurance is available. First to post "I'll take it" has priority for up to 24 hours. Paypal accepted - PM for address. Not responsible for lost shipments if insurance is not purchased.
Edit: I will also offer to install this in a QIII if the buyer throws in an extra $5 for shipping the light back to them after I have finished the installation. I can even give the light a second stage as an option for another $5. It can be insured as well if the buyer wants to add that on.
Here are some pics. The white stuff is some heat transfer compound that won't hurt anything.
SOLD!
Last edited:
With price drop!
and i ll shipped my good old QIII over 
