P60 drop-in killing batteries?

Drewfus2101

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I just bought a DX P60 drop-in last week or the week before, and since I put it in my 6P, it would run great for a while before it would dim down to nothing so I would pull out the batteries and check them with a voltmeter where one will read 0V and the other at the usual ~3.7V.

Before installing the drop-in I checked for shorts with my multimeter and didn't find any. Now I'm thinking there has to be something wrong.

So far I have had 3 batteries die on me in about 2 weeks. All have been DX Ultrafire batteries, definitely not the best quality, but I also used them with another DX drop-in for weeks up until I swapped to this drop-in without any problems.

I havn't had a chance to check out this drop-in again for shorts but I don't think I'm going to find anything. I don't want to buy good AW batteries and end up killing them too.

Any ideas guys?
 

Marduke

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Sometimes the springs can cause a short. Try removing the outer one, and make sure the middle one doesn't short only when compressed (some can)
 

generic808

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+3 on the batteries. Those Ultrafire cells are crap! I had 2 die on me within a week of getting them. I've never had any problems with Trustfire cells though, and they're only a few cents more. Stay away from UF! :thumbsdow
 

Bullzeyebill

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0 voltage is not the actual voltage of your LiIon's. Sometimes a protected LiIon's circuit will cause it to shut down when the voltage drops well below 3.0 volts under load, and the cell will measure 0.0 volts. Put it back on the charger for a few seconds, then recheck it and it should pop back up above 3 volts or so Don't let it sit around for any length of time at that 0 volts reading. I have had other brand protected batteries give that false 0 volt reading. It is not unsafe to check that 0 volt LiIon reading by putting it in the charger shortly after you notice that reading, as long as you recheck voltage within a minute or so. If it then reads at a voltage better than 3.0 volts, then continue charging it.

The fact that only one cell reads 0 volts is not unusual, as sometimes two Liion's will not be exactly matched for same voltage, or the protection circuit may set in earlier for one cell compared to the other cell.

Bill
 

kramer5150

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I have a some of those too. It seems the protection circuit needs at least 2.8V (estimate) to work properly on some cells. IF you run the cell down past that voltage the protection circuit completely disconnects the cell (like its supposed too), giving a 0 Volt reading. If the cell does not nominalize back up to a voltage beyond that certain point you continue to get the 0V reading. If you use a peak detecting charger (like you always should with RCR123s) the charger circuit will not kick in because it detects a 0V open circuit.

My solution was to use a non-peak detecting charger and give the cell an initial charge just to get it back up to the 2.8V range. That way the protection circuit would kick in, after a minute take it out and continue charging with your peak detecting charger. I'm retentive and use a digital multi meter to manually monitor cell voltages at all times (pre-conditioning from my RC hobby involvement).

A bit OT from this point on...

Actually a similar thing can plague RC hobby batteries. Those chargers are slightly different from RCR123 chargers in that they don't cut off at a specific fixed voltage. An RC battery charger looks for a specific voltage profile to detect a peak condition. The microprocessor monitors battery voltage and when it detects battery voltage dropping, it shuts off indicating a peak charge. Sub-C cell (either NiMH or NiCAD) charge voltage will continue to rise, up to a specific point where it will level off for a minute, and the drop off rapidly.

The problem is that with some cells, the cell voltage does not always rise linearly throughout the charge. Charge voltage can oscillate up and down during the first 2-3 minutes of charge. The peak detection circuit detects the voltage drop and cuts off the charge. This is called a "false-peak" condition. I have some 7.2V SC battery packs that start their charge at 8Volts, dip down to 7 and then gradually climb up to 10V where they peak off at.

The only way around it is to switch your charger to a "peak detection lockout" mode, so it deactivates the peak detection circuit for the first 3 minutes of charge. OR you can use a non-peak detecting charger and get the cells past that non-linear point, and continue to finish off the charge in a peak detecting charger.

IMHO... everyone should use a digital multi meter to monitor cell voltages while they charge. IMHO it takes a lot of the mystery out of battery charging.
 
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Bullzeyebill

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I think that OP's cells that have been at 0 voltage for several days should probably be chucked, and in the future just pop them back on the charger for a few minutes to see if he can get a voltage reading. When I use a light with high amp drain, and am using protected cells, and the light goes out, one or both cells will measure 0 voltage. I pop them back into my charger and they read, within seconds, above 3 volts. I do not use a DMM to monitor my LiIon's during the charging process, though I do take a voltage reading after the green light turns on.

Bill
 

Drewfus2101

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Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to try putting one of the batteries that registers at 0V on the charger for a minute at a time and pull it off and check it. I'll repeat it a few times and see what happens.

While I've got it apart I'm going to double check the drop-in for shorts. I'm 99% sure there are not any, but I'll check anyways. I'll also install it in the 6P and see if I can substitute an insulated piece of bar stock for the batteries and check the continuity at the tailcap for shorts.

I was also leaning towards batteries because if it was a short then I would think it would kill the batteries as soon as you cut it on or very soon not after minutes of running it.
 

roymail

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Which drop-in is it? I've not read of that happening before, but I guess it's possible. No problem with my two #6090's. :huh:
 

Drewfus2101

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I didn't have the problem with the DX sku #6090 and these batteries running with little use for about 2 weeks. Then I got the sku #11836 and I started having battery problems. I'm hoping its a fluke. I havn't charged these batteries in a while so maybe thats it.
 

kramer5150

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I didn't have the problem with the DX sku #6090 and these batteries running with little use for about 2 weeks. Then I got the sku #11836 and I started having battery problems. I'm hoping its a fluke. I havn't charged these batteries in a while so maybe thats it.


I don't see how the drop in module should influence the cells stability. Seems strange how the cell would do that with only the 11836, since they both pull about .68A, and they both drop out of regulation as the cell voltage depletes. Essentially running the cells all the way down to zilch. At which point the cells protection circuit should kick in, and disconnect the batteries completely from further discharge.
 

MrGman

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I don't see how the drop in module should influence the cells stability. Seems strange how the cell would do that with only the 11836, since they both pull about .68A, and they both drop out of regulation as the cell voltage depletes. Essentially running the cells all the way down to zilch. At which point the cells protection circuit should kick in, and disconnect the batteries completely from further discharge.


It is the constant current drive function of the drop in module that is the first part of the problem. The batteries not having the same energy storage capacity is the second half of the problem. One battery discharges to its 3.0V "shelf" or cut off level first because it simply doesn't have the same amount of stored energy as the other. However, in this scenario the drive circuit sees that it still have enough voltage and drive current from the second battery to keep running. The first battery will be getting discharged past its safe cut off point due to the voltage regulation range and the energy still in the second battery, but luckily the cut out circuit disconnects it at that point and shuts the flashlight down. If it wasn't for that cut out circuitry in the battery the lower energy capacity would start to reverse charge, which would cause serious damage, possibly start it on fire. Which of course is why the cut out circuitry is there. This was always the problem with nicads in a stack up. They would never have the same capacity level and the weakest one would discharge and then reverse charge from the forward current flow of the rest of the stack. This wasn't such a danger for nicads. And you could recover them with a strong forward current surge recharge.

The best way to make this go away is to not use rechargeable batteries. The more difficult way is to do what the RC car racers used to do or the companies selling the matched battery stacks. Get a computeried discharge unit that would measured the exact amount of ampere hour discharge per cell under a fairly heavy load and the Vf and record that information per cell. Then you match cells with as close as possible ampere hour output under load with the closest voltage drops. A real pain if you don't have fully automatic equipment and let it do all the work. I used to see matched RC battery packs selling for over $100.00.

Using cheap rechargeable 123's in pairs for a flashlight drawing 680mA or more, you should have no expectation that they will both have the same energy capacity and discharge to the same cut off point together. I would expect one will always discharge to the cut off point before the other. The higher the current load, the worst this phenomenon will appear. Under very light current loads, the less this will occur where you might not ever notice it.

Do you know of any company selling matched sets of RCR123's? If so that would be the best way to minimize this problem and get the most out of each rechargeable battery set for any given application. Having a flashlight that uses 3 or more batteries will make this condition worse. The lowest energy capacity battery will always completely discharge to the cut off point first and shut down the entire stack prematurely.

On custom battery packs that I build I always prefer to put them in parallel and not series for this reason.

If you need a reliable high current draw flashlight for emergency use where it will last for the expected run time, don't use rechargeables. Sad but true.
 

Bullzeyebill

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MrGman post shows, to me, a good reason for use of unprotected LiIon's, and monitoring them closely particularly when run in series. Most of the protocol for cell maintenance that MrGman mentions is being used for NiCd and NiMh cells which have never been protected, and these same safe guards can be used for LiIon's too, ideally unprotected LiIon's. I mostly use unprotected LiIon's particularly for high drain applications due to their usually higher capacity. I know they don't have a so called protection circuit, so do not depend on it, and monitor them throughout their life for signs of reduced capacity, also checking voltage in high drain applications to see if they are discharging at the same rate. Making sure they they are charged up to the same voltage is important too, a good time to notice if a cell is suddenly not taking a good charge, a possible sign of a damaged cell. At first signs of dimming in an incan light I switch them out. I keep them in pairs, or threes, depending on the voltage required for a given light, and number them. For use in constant current lights, particularly buck constant current lights I pay particular attention to the cells. Most of my boost constant current lights will dim before a cell gets to far below 3 volts under load.

It sounds like a lot of work, but is actually part of the enjoyment of being a flashaholic, and working with batteries, lights, circuits, etc.

Bill
 

Drewfus2101

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So I put the battery that was registering at 0V on the cheap-o charger and as soon as I did I pulled it off and it was registering above 3.0V. Sounds like the protection circuit had kicked in. Good stuff.
 

MrGman

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MrGman post shows, to me, a good reason for use of unprotected LiIon's, and monitoring them closely particularly when run in series. Most of the protocol for cell maintenance that MrGman mentions is being used for NiCd and NiMh cells which have never been protected, and these same safe guards can be used for LiIon's too, ideally unprotected LiIon's. I mostly use unprotected LiIon's particularly for high drain applications due to their usually higher capacity. I know they don't have a so called protection circuit, so do not depend on it, and monitor them throughout their life for signs of reduced capacity, also checking voltage in high drain applications to see if they are discharging at the same rate. Making sure they they are charged up to the same voltage is important too, a good time to notice if a cell is suddenly not taking a good charge, a possible sign of a damaged cell. At first signs of dimming in an incan light I switch them out. I keep them in pairs, or threes, depending on the voltage required for a given light, and number them. For use in constant current lights, particularly buck constant current lights I pay particular attention to the cells. Most of my boost constant current lights will dim before a cell gets to far below 3 volts under load.

It sounds like a lot of work, but is actually part of the enjoyment of being a flashaholic, and working with batteries, lights, circuits, etc.

Bill

The nickel cads and metal hydrides are much less likely to catch fire if they get a real reverse charge. I have seen many a nicad reverse charged in multiple battery stacks. I don't even care about what happens to NiMH. The cell may get ruined but I have never seen one or heard of one burning up or exploding. This is a much more real possibility with Lithium Ion batteries which is why they put in the cut out circuits.

So basically Bullzeyebill, what you are saying is that, we should take a simple 1 button operational device, that although it is a great tool, a fun tool, we should turn it from something very simple to operate and easy to maintain, into something very tedious and time consuming to maintain, elevate it into an ongoing science project with potential consequences of fire or explosion, for the sake of having more fun with it?

I am not going to say you are crazy or whacked or loco, or anything like that. :poke: , I am just going to say you got way too much time on your hands.

As for those of us who simply want the light to work when we turn it on and run for a reasonable runtime, with minimal maintenance, use primaries, or top off your rechargeables, or use the type that only use one battery.

As all these hot new mega LED flashlights start drawing power on par with a low efficiency krypton lamp (but fortunately putting out the light of a small sun), this is going to make all your rechargeable batteries appear to be crapzapier and less consistent. High constant current circuits are the fastest and easiest way to find the weakest cell in a battery stack and drop it out. The only thing missing to make it a bona fide test circuit would be individual voltage meters across each cell to see what the voltage the cells are at and you could start matching them up right there.

Maybe this would be a great opportunity for someone to start selling matched batteries, in pairs, groups of 3, 4, sets of 6. Tested and proven to have the same ampere hour rating within 2% or better, and same voltage drop within 2% or better. :candle::candle:

But then again, I wouldn't be willing to pay the extra costs to have them. :D
 

Bullzeyebill

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I am not going to say you are crazy or whacked or loco, or anything like that. :poke: , I am just going to say you got way too much time on your hands. :D

Thanks for being tactful. I nearly spilled my morning coffee when I read that line. Brought a smile to my face, which is a nice way to start the day.

I am just working with what we have out there and good unprotected LiIon's like LG brand are great with some of my mods. Yes, we are taxing our LiIon's, running then with incan bulbs that pull well over two amps, and now using them with the Cree P7, one 18650 for example. Protected or not that is a lot of strain on a cell. When we get safer chemistry that can deliver the amperage that we are requiring, I will embrace it. In the meantime I will do my best being careful using unprotected LiIon's.

Bill
 

MrGman

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Thanks for being tactful. I nearly spilled my morning coffee when I read that line. Brought a smile to my face, which is a nice way to start the day.

I am just working with what we have out there and good unprotected LiIon's like LG brand are great with some of my mods. Yes, we are taxing our LiIon's, running then with incan bulbs that pull well over two amps, and now using them with the Cree P7, one 18650 for example. Protected or not that is a lot of strain on a cell. When we get safer chemistry that can deliver the amperage that we are requiring, I will embrace it. In the meantime I will do my best being careful using unprotected LiIon's.

Bill


I was going for the spilled coffee on the battery charger and sparks :D Okay just kidding. Glad you got a chuckle but really, that is a lot of work.

However if you saw this post thread:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=195441

From the guy who blew up his Dereelight with a a set of counterfeit chinese non rechargeable 123's (allegedly), I should clarify my posting and also say monitor your batteries as much as you want just be careful.

I previously stated in this thread that the problem of potentially reverse charging and having a battery burst into flames/explode doesn't happen with primary type cells. That is that they "normally" go higher and higher in internal impedance when they discharge and cannot reverse charge, the impedance is simply too high.

I should modify that. Under normal conditions using 2 fresh cells together from real name brand manufacturers this doesn't happen. Mixing a half dead cell with a fully charged cell in any device that will try to maintain regulated high current is dangerous in general. Putting it in a non regulated flashlight usually causes the current to drop to 0 as the one cell dies because its internal resistance is going up and exceeds the voltage drop of the other battery(s) to deliver current to a high impedance load, so your light goes from dim to off and you simply change the batteries.

With fully regulated circuitry flashlights, the regulator could be damaged in trying to keep pumping current through a non rechargeable cell that has its internal resistance going up and up. The heat of the regulator burning up could potentially set a good battery on fire. The discharged non rechargeable cell with its internal resistance going up could be getting hot if the regulation circuit is really good and trying to pump current from the function cell(s). So damage could occur one way or another. Not worth the risk to mix cells. Plus if the battery is a cheap counterfeit that may have questionable internal construction, it may do just what it did in that other post, blow up a perfectly good flashlight. It was supposedly a non rechargeable so he wouldn't be putting it on a charger and checking its voltage drop, just use it and not think twice. He didn't know it was a cheap chinese counterfeit.

So for any one in general, check the other thread and look out for those fake copies of Panasonic batteries. If you have them have them properly disposed of. If you have batteries where you know one is getting weak and not holding a full charge don't think you can get more mileage by using it with a strong battery, rechargeable or not; especially in a high current draw, current regulated device.

So for all those people out there not doing lots of maintenence and monitoring of your batteries, make sure you use name brand primaries, or protected rechargeables. Never mix a known partially discharged battery with a fresh one thinking you can get the last few pennies worth of energy out of the dying one before you trash it.
 
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