Destroyed my P3D, need upgrade advice.

Earlier this week I applied glow powder around the emitter of my P3D. Satisfied with my work and mesmerized by the awesome glow, I sold my spare P3D on the BST because I didn't need two of them anymore (and I want a Zebralight.)

I was preparing the package last night and decided to do one last side by side comparison, both on freshly charged batteries. Prior to my glow mod, output of both was equal (to my eyes, I don't have a meter) but post glow mod, mine was severely dimmer. For example: my turbo was about equal to the stock P3D on medium!

I didn't notice a change sooner because I was focused on the glow performance, turning the light on just for a few seconds to charge the powder.

Anyway, I had a feeling I knew the reason: When applying the epoxy/powder mix, I slopped some onto the side of the LED dome. After it hardened, I used an xacto knife to scrape off the misplaced epoxy and, surprisingly, it cleaned off very nicely and didn't even scratch the dome. Still, I figured that was my problem, so I opened the head again and inspected the LED. Prodding it with the tip of my blade caused the dome to wiggle and tiny fractures could be seen under magnification. I must have applied too much force when scraping the epoxy off of it. Finally the dome just popped off.:sick2:

I have ZERO experience swapping LEDs. I was thinking of putting an SSC P7 in there since it is only $10 more than a Q5 at the fenix-store. Is there ANYTHING I need to know before I do this? I don't need to know HOW since I'm going to follow Nereus' P1D upgrade tutorial. I just want to be sure there will be no surprises with the P7.

My handywork. (Sloppy, yes. First time using glow powder.)

I don't believe there is sufficient heat sinking on that light for a P7.

So I guess another Q5 would be my best choice?

The light is current controlled, this means that a P7 would emit less light than a Q5, because it has less efficiency.

See, it's a good thing I asked before doing anything. I'm lost when it comes to this stuff.

Would a P7 even fit? That is a very large emitter to be stuffing into a small head. The beam wouldn't turn out well, either. I say stick with a Q5 or try to get an R2.

AyeMayanor said:

See, it's a good thing I asked before doing anything. I'm lost when it comes to this stuff.

Click to expand...

Generally your can not just swap to another type of led, the reflector is designed to match a specific led type (Like Cree xre).
Your could use a Cree R2 or R4 led, it is same type, but gives a bit more light.

Fitting the P7 would not only give less light but also require modification of the reflector and would probably newer give as good a beam as a Cree xre led.

I really appreciate your help.

It looks like Cutter Electronics is the only place that has the R2. I'm searching and not having any luck finding bare emitters for sale. DX and KD only have an R2 in drop-in form.

What about flux characteristics? I feel like head is going to explode when I see these charts listing stuff like: "P4 Flux 7A Tint (3200k to 3500k)" Trying to read the data sheets isn't making it any better.

Again, I appreciate all help. Forgive me for being so clueless.

Your need to take a look in this thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/156772

It will help with some of the letters and numbers.

If your need more specific date, your must download the manufacturers datasheets.

Thank you, those color charts make it a little easier.

See if I have this correct:

If I want a warm, cream tint, I should choose an emitter in the lower range 2500-3500 as opposed to 4000-5000?

If it has a warmer tint, does that mean it puts out less lumens? Or would ALL R2s put out more than a Q5?

Can you get the bad emitter off? Why is the GITD epoxy so dark? Do you have thermal epoxy to mount the new Cree to the P3D's heat sink?

An incan is around 3500 Kelvin, maybe too warm.

4500 K would be better.

R2s should all be brighter then the Q5s.

Gunner12 said:

An incan is around 3500 Kelvin, maybe too warm.

4500 K would be better.

R2s should all be brighter then the Q5s.

Click to expand...

Thanks, that puts things more in perspective.

Wade: I had to dremel the epoxy away from the emitter to remove it. I think the camera made it look darker than it really was, or maybe it was because I mixed the powder and epoxy 50/50.

I will get thermal epoxy from radio shack or fenix store.

There is only about 1/4" of wire sticking up now, which should be enough so long as I don't snip any off when stripping the ends. The black and red wires are crossed inside the P1D head, as shown by Nereus, so if the P3D is built the same that should mean there is more wire available...if that part of the head can even be reached.

It is tempting to buy a new P3D and sell this one for parts, but I'm feeling more comfortable with this repair thanks to the help I've received.

HKJ said:

The difference between 107/114/130 lumens is very small.

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That's fine with me. I'm going into it with the attitude that I'll be happy if output is the same as what the original Q5 was. Anything greater will be a bonus.

And the P3D was glued shut, so was my L2D and P1D. They all open easy with heat and strap wrenches. (The P1D is slightly difficult because the threads tear into the straps.) I use Loctite Threadlocker BLUE to reseal.

I did almost the exact same thing a couple weeks ago with my WF-602D. It was a glow potting accident . Anyhow that allowed me to upgrade from a P4 to a Q5 for a minimal price. Unfortunately the step up from a Q5 to an R2 isn't as dramatic if noticable at all. Your best bet is going Q5 and making sure you get the color you like. I decided not to put glow powder on my Cree's from now on...

HKJ said:

The light is current controlled, this means that a P7 would emit less light than a Q5, because it has less efficiency.

Click to expand...

That's not true, the P7 runs each die at lower current and hence higher efficiency than the single die of the Q5. But it won't fit well in the light.

@OP, CCT depends really on what you like. Warmer ones replicate incandescent light, but with LED efficiency. But keep in mind, you won't find a Q- or R-bin warm-white emitter. The best I've seen for sale is P4.

Question about Cutter Electronics ordering...

I'm on this page: http://www.cutter.com.au/search.php

Select Led by FLUX(Light Output) Bin in Cool to Neutral colour Temperatures.: I select R2 (WG Tint+$4.90)

But there's more:

Select Led by FLUX(Light Output) Bin in Warm White colour: Here you can select N2, P3 and P4, each for $0.35 more)

See if I understand this: Is the second choice just a guideline for choosing the color preference?

Let's say I choose R2 in the first box, then P4 in the next box, does that mean I'd get an R2 with tint similar to a P4? R2P4? Is that the droid I'm looking for?

AyeMayanor said:

Question about Cutter Electronics ordering...

I'm on this page: http://www.cutter.com.au/search.php

Select Led by FLUX(Light Output) Bin in Cool to Neutral colour Temperatures.: I select R2 (WG Tint+$4.90)

But there's more:

Select Led by FLUX(Light Output) Bin in Warm White colour: Here you can select N2, P3 and P4, each for $0.35 more)

See if I understand this: Is the second choice just a guideline for choosing the color preference?

Let's say I choose R2 in the first box, then P4 in the next box, does that mean I'd get an R2 with tint similar to a P4? R2P4? Is that the droid I'm looking for?

Click to expand...

The second set of bubbles is warm white, a different product, with the flux bin being up to P4. If you select R2 flux bin in the top set and P4 7A in the second set, a P4 flux bin, 7A tint LED will be added to your cart.

Warm white LEDs inherently have lower luminous flux than their cool white counterparts.

Ok, it's good I didn't place an order yet.