Fenix L1T V2.0 and 14500

sixfellas · Apr 25, 2008

Just received my L1T V2.0 from Fenix-Store and I love it. Seen some conflicting reports. Is the 4.2 off the charger of the 14500 protected too much for the circuitry or is it ok? Second, are we looking at direct drive unregulated output with the 14500 or is it pretty flat?

LEDninja · Apr 26, 2008

1) You void tour warranty.
2) You loose low mode.
3) Until the 14500 drops to 3.6V or so you are direct driving the LED.
4) You may burn out the circuit board. (That has happened to a few L0D CE/10440 now.)
5) If you have the RB80 version do not try it. The low Vf, small size of the rebel can't take the load. Q2 version only. (I have used my RB80 just long enough to take beamshots, so it probably won't instaflash.)

People pay extra for a Fenix because they are more reliable than the cheap stuff at DX. Put the wrong battery in and you can't rely on the light anymore.
Why not just buy a light rated for 14500 instead of trying to get one not designed for it to work.

Jarl · Apr 26, 2008

LEDninja said:
1) You void tour warranty.
2) You loose low mode.
3) Until the 14500 drops to 3.6V or so you are direct driving the LED.
4) You may burn out the circuit board. (That has happened to a few L0D CE/10440 now.)
5) If you have the RB80 version do not try it. The low Vf, small size of the rebel can't take the load. Q2 version only. (I have used my RB80 just long enough to take beamshots, so it probably won't instaflash.)

People pay extra for a Fenix because they are more reliable than the cheap stuff at DX. Put the wrong battery in and you can't rely on the light anymore.
Why not just buy a light rated for 14500 instead of trying to get one not designed for it to work.

4) doubt it- the L0D has a different driver to the L1T. It was the PWM regulator going poof that "broke" the L0D's- L1T has no PWM.
5) The low Vf does mean bad news, but the size of the actual emitter has nothing to do with it.

LEDninja · Apr 26, 2008

Jarl said:
4) doubt it- the L0D has a different driver to the L1T. It was the PWM regulator going poof that "broke" the L0D's- L1T has no PWM.

There is a boost circuit as well as the PWM circuit in the L0D. We don't know which part fried.

Jarl · Apr 26, 2008

LEDninja said:
There is a boost circuit as well as the PWM circuit in the L0D. We don't know which part fried.

If the light just doesn't work, it may be because the boost circuit fried or the PWM circuit fired while in the "off" position. If the light will only turn on at "max" output, then the PWM circuit fried while in the "on" position. There have been reports of both.

Also, I thought that when a 10440 is used, it direct drives, meaning that the boost circuit is not involved, so the driver couldn't fry as it's not actually doing anything?

greenLED · Apr 26, 2008

LEDninja said:
13) Until the 14500 drops to 3.6V or so you are direct driving the LED.

...and sometimes that's close enough for the cell's protection circuit to kick in.

Landemoo · Apr 26, 2008

sixfellas said:
Just received my L1T V2.0 from Fenix-Store and I love it. Seen some conflicting reports. Is the 4.2 off the charger of the 14500 protected too much for the circuitry or is it ok? Second, are we looking at direct drive unregulated output with the 14500 or is it pretty flat?

I've been using my L1TV2.0 RB80 (probably RB90) with an AW 14500, and later with an AW RCR123a and a P2D body, for about half a year. This is, though, outside specifications, so you do this on your own risk.

Low isn't really low until voltage drops to about 3 volts, where the cell is almost depleted, so this is a turbo/high mode flashlight only.

While current stay over 3V it is unregulated, and when voltage drops it will be regulated, so it will stay bright until your cell is depleted.

sixfellas · Apr 26, 2008

so i'm wondering: these LiFePO4 3.0v cells have a starting voltage of 3.6v. these should be pretty safe and solid performers in the L1T V2.0 with the Q2, Correct?

Drummer · Apr 26, 2008

Do the new L1Ts fix the tail problems of eariler models?

Jarl · Apr 27, 2008

Drummer said:
Do the new L1Ts fix the tail problems of eariler models?

No-one knows yet

LEDninja · Apr 27, 2008

How do you charge the LiFePO4 14500? I asked the question yesterday in the batteries forum, no answers yet. I guess you can always get a P2D body and use LiFePO4 RCR123A. Tenergy makes a charger for that.

sixfellas said:
so i'm wondering: these LiFePO4 3.0v cells have a starting voltage of 3.6v. these should be pretty safe and solid performers in the L1T V2.0 with the Q2, Correct?

The early L1Ts come with a forward clicky and reverse clicky switches.
The reverse clicky works, the forward clicky breaks down.
The current L1T ships with the reverse clicky only.

Drummer said:
Do the new L1Ts fix the tail problems of eariler models?

Jarl · Apr 27, 2008

The new L1T ships with a forward clicky- drummer was weondering (I think) how reliable the new clicky is, compared to the old, unreliable forward clickies.

LEDninja · Apr 27, 2008

Jarl said:
The new L1T ships with a forward clicky- drummer was weondering (I think) how reliable the new clicky is, compared to the old, unreliable forward clickies.

Interesting. Wait 3 months and ask again. Can not tell how reliable things are when they are new. Fenix probably found something better or they would still be using the reverse clicky.

sixfellas · Apr 27, 2008

the forward clicky that I have with my new l1t seems really solid. Its way early to tell but I can say that quality initially seems on par with high end ones. The spring is strong, the click is very solid, and the "ignition" of the light is very defined unlike my NDI

olrac · Apr 27, 2008

sixfellas said:
the forward clicky that I have with my new l1t seems really solid. Its way early to tell but I can say that quality initially seems on par with high end ones. The spring is strong, the click is very solid, and the "ignition" of the light is very defined unlike my NDI

+1 I have been working the h**l out mine the last couple days and it is solid like a rock. Also it seems a lot brighter than the specs say it is.

Drummer · Apr 27, 2008

I was wondering cause the forward clickie on my L2T only lasted a couple of months.

Landemoo · Apr 27, 2008

My forward clickie from the previous version of L1Tv2.0 RB80 is still going strong after about six months. I disassembled the rear cap and filled the forward clickie with gun oil. For a week or two there was a slight twinkle while I depressed it, but after that it works just as intended, smooth and without any kind of twinkle.

Fenix L1T V2.0 and 14500

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