ROP VS FM1794

yankeefist

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My FM-D26 w/ the FM1794 lamp running on 2 RCR123's is brighter than my 2 18650 ROP

why??????

I thought the ROP would be like twice as bright
 

mdocod

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THE FM1794 IS A 3 AMP LOAD, IT IS A SPECIALTY BULB DESIGNED FOR USE WITH LARGE CAPACITY LI-ION CELLS AND SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH RCR123'S!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sorry for the yelling, but FMs sales thread clearly states to read the entire thread before ordering, and has the minimum li-ion capacity required for this lamp listed as 1500mAH.

[edit in] and in all honesty, for a 3A load, I would suggest nothing less than a pair of 18650 size cells of good quality. A 1500mAH rated cell would probably perform at around 1000mAH at that drain rate.


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need more details about your ROP configuration.

which bulb, what cells, what state of charge, etc...

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The FM1794 should be brighter than a ROP low. and slightly dimmer than a ROP high.
 
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MikeSalt

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Interesting, so your FM1794, running on cells that are not recommended is actually brighter than your ROP. I would hazard a guess that something is wrong with your ROP somewhere along the lines.

What specific cells are you running in the ROP?
 

yankeefist

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Yell all you want I'm not changing it -- it's my favorite light and it's only used to make poeple say Holy Cr*p that's bright - and it's nice and white in an E2E body with a C2 head - very impressive size to brightness ratio

my ROP is running on a pair of unprotected Ultrafire 18650's in a antique Winchester light --I've been thinking maybe it's still a resistance problem , Ive already done some mods to lower the resistance but

right now the 1794 is slightly brighter than th ROP high


THE FM1794 IS A 3 AMP LOAD, IT IS A SPECIALTY BULB DESIGNED FOR USE WITH LARGE CAPACITY LI-ION CELLS AND SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH RCR123'S!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sorry for the yelling, but FMs sales thread clearly states to read the entire thread before ordering, and has the minimum li-ion capacity required for this lamp listed as 1500mAH.

[edit in] and in all honesty, for a 3A load, I would suggest nothing less than a pair of 18650 size cells of good quality. A 1500mAH rated cell would probably perform at around 1000mAH at that drain rate.


---------------------------------------------------

need more details about your ROP configuration.

which bulb, what cells, what state of charge, etc...

---------------------------------------------------

The FM1794 should be brighter than a ROP low. and slightly dimmer than a ROP high.
 

MikeSalt

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Don't worry about mdocod. He's just looking out for you. Straining Li-ion cells can prove very hazardous indeed. If they are not protected RCR123a cells though, I would seriously consider getting some. The AW RCR123a cells are a good choice. The protection circuit is set at 5 amps, so even with cold-starting, they should be fine. The important thing is that AW cells protect you from harm.

As for your ROP, it probably is resistance issues. I don't suppose you have a digital multi-meter to hand do you? If so, measure the voltage at the cells, then measure at the bulb. If your DMM has a resistance measurement function even better!
 

mdocod

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Hello MikeSalt,
AWs protected cells won't light up a 1794 very well, or at least not on a single click. On the P91 they will fire it up if you dance on the tail-cap once or twice. The 1794 is even a heavier load than a P91.

Thing is, on the larger cells with the same 5 amp limit, the cells can deliver large "bursts" of current to warm up the filament before the protection "catches" it. The RCR123 is basically running like a dead short into a cold filament and is giving up everything it has to warm up the filament, but it won't be enough to warm up the filament in one try before the protection circuit jumps in and says "hey, what do you think you are doing here. trying to murder me?". So that's when the user responds, "YES, DIE DIE DIE," and keeps pushing the button to cycle the protection on and off until the filament warms up enough to run continuously!

protected cells won't work for his intended purpose, no protection circuit is going to make this a much safer setup. Probably won't work anyways... For as much light as possible, unprotected is really the only way to go here. Protection circuits take up space, make the actual cell smaller, and add resistance. In every normal configuration I heavily recommend protected cells. In this case, assuming a protected cell that would allow that much current to flow, it would really only delay the inevitable. The cells will fail in a few cycles.

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Yankeefist,
I'll be nice now :)
Sounds like you are well aware of what you are doing. Provided you understand the risks allow me to try to reduce the risks as much as possible... (nnonooo.... cut the BLUE wire.... lol)

The best things he can do is limit use to short bursts of output. I'd say, 10 seconds or less whenever possible. Since you're mostly just using it to wow people, wow factor can kick in pretty quickly, a few flashes of bright light should have people wondering where you are hiding the nuclear accelerator. Keep it short and sweet, get some bursts out of it, then get it back to the charger. Get it back on the charger when the open circuit voltage of the cells drops to ~3.90-3.95V. Try to keep the cells in the top 20% or so, never doing a full discharge on this load. I would probably recommend limiting charges to 4.15V as well, but that's up to you, if you want it really as bright as possible, 4.20V may be preferred.

If you follow this regiment of shallow cycles, you will probably get around 25-75 cycles out of the cells. If you were to do a continuous discharge to the point of being "dead" (~2.5V under load) and charge them back up each time, the cells would probably last less than 5-10 cycles.

Put your charger in a fireproof box in a well ventilated area. Cells being abused that hard are usually safe during the discharge, and are most likely to vent while charging.

it will probably be difficult to determine when the cells have aged to a point that they need to be replaced, as I'm betting they are going to develop very un-even internal breakdown that may or may not show it's signs the same way cells used normally would, with that in mind. You may consider replacing the cells after awhile even if they appear to be working fine.

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As for the ROP vs 1794... there are a few things to consider as possible:
Ultrafire cells are known for problems, I've seen test results ranging from respectable to pitiful on them. Could be that you got one of those pitiful duds with abnormally high internal resistance.

Try to get yourself a pair of Emoli 18650s for the ROP, they will be safer and the results will be much better, and if it still isn't working that great, you know for a fact that it's not the cells fault. Work on resistance.
 

yankeefist

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MikeSalt,
I feel like an Idiot for not grabbing the Multimeter b4 post but I narrowed it right down to the spring RE mag seems to have solved that -- now it is slightly brighter than the 1794
Thanks


mdocod,
you are a gentleman and a scholar

"hey, what do you think you are doing here. trying to murder me?". So that's when the user responds, "YES, DIE DIE DIE," :crackup: I love it

I am running it almost exactly like you recommend


Were does on get Emoli 18650s or any Emolis for that matter???

Thanks
 
Last edited:

mdocod

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Jimjones might still be selling them here:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=178188

I think Emoli 18650 cells can be found in the Ryobi 18V 1+ li-ion system. 10 cells per battery.

I think Emoli 26700 cells can be found in the Milwaukee 28V li-ion systems. 7 cells per battery I think. The 18V version should theoretically contain 5 cells.

I think the rigid 24V li-ion system contains 6 26700 Emoli cells..


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and then there are A123 cells... also fun from what I hear :)
I think A123 18650 cells are found in black and decker VXP systems (2 cells per battery)

I think A123 26670 are found in 36V Dewalt Li-Ion systems, 10 cells per battery.
 

yankeefist

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can I charge the Emoli or A123 18650's in the charger I am using for the Ultrafire 18650?
 

mdocod

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Emoli cells follow the same charging requirements as LiCo02. (your 3.7V ultrafires are LiCo02). So yes, charge to 4.2V, discharge to around 3.0V under a load.

The A123 cells have a different charging requirement. They require charge termination at ~3.6V, however, they are extremely tolerant to overcharge and could be, in a pinch, charged in a standard li-ion charger. For the proper charging, look for chargers designed for LiFeP04 cells, as they are of very similar chemistry.
 
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