Teach me about the SF L1 for EDC/CCW

jonesy

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Jan 10, 2008
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Here's the deal. I'm looking for a new light that's suitable for carrying every day, as well as being paired with a handgun. I currently have in my rotation a 6P with M60 Malkoff, an E2D, a G2L, and a Novatac 120P (currently gone to service, tailcap broke and it's not working right). Also had a Fenix P2D but I gave that to my brother. Since the 120P is no longer around, I've gone back to my E2D, but I'm not crazy about the battery life and I'm an LED fan at heart.

So I'm looking for a new light that will work in this dual role. Simpler is better, prefer 1xCR123, dual modes is preferred. As you can tell, I like surefires, and the two that popped up are the E1B and the L1.

What I really want to know is how easy it is to get full power out of the L1. Even though I used my 120P at 10 lumens 95% of the time, I knew I could get full burst just by pressing down the button. Will the L1 work in this fashion?

I honestly used my multi-mode lights at low lumens most of the time but I want to keep it as simple as possible without having to go through a series of clicks to jump from one mode to another. Hence my interest in the L1. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the tailcap on the L1 has the ability to be turned on even if the button broken, is that right?

In essence, I need a dead nuts reliable light that won't let me down, comes on in low, but gets to high in a split second. I'm open to other lights that might work in this dual role as well. Let me know if I've missed any options.
 

chaoss

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I think that the L1 will suit your needs very well. It's easy to go into momentary high with a full press on the button. As you might already know the E1B comes on in high mode first followed by low in both momentary and click.
IMO, either one of these two lights are a sure bet with a slight edge going to the L1 with a more reliable switching platform. (Not that there are any problems with the E1B clicky).
One minor detail to consider is how you will carry the light. The L1 is bezel up only and the E1B is available with an up/down clip.
I believe that you can bypass the momentary (if it fails) on the L1 by simply twisting the end cap.
 
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WildChild

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The L1 is what you need. 1st, it's a twisty and not a clicky so the swich is more reliable. You twist for low, then you twist more for high. It's a twisty but it also has a momentary push. Push a little for low, push more for high. If you're already on low, push for instant high! L1 is my EDC since the day I got it last year!
 

maxa beam

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Double agreed.
It's work great as a weapon light, too.

If I were you?
I'd wait till the UA2 optimus came out.
Drats, I hate to use this post of mine again, but it truly IS a good light for the job, so it shouldn't matter.
It's a SUREFIRE, man. That means waterproof to one atmosphere, bulletproof ruggedness, reliability(Their main customer is the military, after all.), performance... Everything. Ask any given member here what the best brand of flashlight is and nine out of ten will tell you "Surefire".
Oh, yes. The Optimus. Almost forgot. It has a maximum of a scorching 200 LUMENS, more than any of the mentioned lights. Surefire is pretty much the only company that uses an integrating sphere to measure lumen output. Other manufacturers measure torch lumens, while Surefire measures out-the-front lumens. A 100 lumen Surefire is usually brighter than a 150 lumen other-brand. The leds are sorted, making sure you won't get a fluke. It has one LED of unknown make, but whatever it is, it must be pretty efficient. The Optimus has 11 settings..
1: Off.
2: SOS
3: 2 Lumens.
4: 4 Lumens.
5: 8 Lumens.
6: 15 Lumens.
7: 30 Lumens.
8: 60 Lumens.
9: 120 Lumens.
10: 200 Lumens.
11: Strobe.
The lowest, 2 lumens, runs for 100 hours. Judging from the runtime of Surefire's combatlights, which also run on two 123s, the Optimus' highest setting will be available for a long time.
It also has a Military-Spec Type 3 Hard-Anodize coating. It's a beautiful black coating of aluminum oxide, a substance up there with diamond and other precious gems. It's chemically grown onto the surface, so don't worry about paint chipping! Very few manufacturers provide mil-spec anodize.

It also has a stepped-down body and rubber grip. It's called combatgrip, and provides an amazingly secure grip.
That may be a little hard to picture, or maybe I'm just relieving your eyes with some eyecandy of this beautiful flashlight. Either way, have a picture.
policestuff_2001_208899501


The Optimus also has a fuel guage led. It glows green when the battery is full, orange when medium, red when low. I haven't thought of this, but that could also serve as a locater if you dropped the flashlight.
Oh, that's not all. It has a magnetic selector ring for cycling through the modes, and if you don't feel like doing that and need maximum power RIGHT THEN, press the MaxBlast tailcap.
OH, and some more features.
The Optimus also has an adjustable focus beam and a total internal reflector, meaning it gathers almost ALL of the light from the LED, while reflectors gather less. But, anyways, variable focus. It focuses the beam into either a pleasing wall of light(Indoor use, maybe.), or a sharp, piercing beam for throwing lots of lumen very far. And ask any member of the forums if the Surefire L4 is an amazing wall-of-light illumination tool, or if the L1 is an amazing thrower, and most, or all, will say yes. The beams on Surefires are some of my favorite. (The L4 in particular.)
It works by having a rippled "plate" over the total internal reflector, which moves further or closer to the TIR, redistributing the energy of the light. It, theoretically, would work great, with minimal light loss. Other focusable flashlights, like maglites, move the reflector further away from the beam, or closer to it, and reflectors have only one focal point. This means the beam becomes ridden with rings, holes, and imperfections, meaning less light if transmitted, meaning less visibility.
The body is made of aircraft-grade aluminum, an alloy extremely tough and resilient, and it transfers heat very well, not that LEDS produce alot of heat (not NEARLY as much as incandescents.). Oh, it uses a Lexan window, which is scratch, and shock resistant, with anti-reflective coatings on each side, meaning almost all of the light is transmitter to the target. It costs 289 USD and comes with 20 lithium primary Surefire batteries, my favorite brand. That's enough to last a VERY long time, as the Optimus takes 2 batteries.
I'm sure I missed a bunch of features, but that's all I can remember off the top of my head. You can guess that I spend alot of my time salivating at it. The only possible downside to this light I can ever think of: It doesn't use rechargeables, but they're extremely volatile and, unless you get protected ones, can die very, very soon if you overuse them. Protected rechargeables are expensive, and plus you need an expensive charger.. This stuff's enough to buy alot of Surefire Lithium 123s, which are 1.75 USD.

Woah, I just now realized I just created a wall of text describing a 6.5 inch, 6.5 gram flashlight. Oh well, it benefits the person asking the question, and it makes me tingly recounting the features of this amazing tool in detail.

You can also gather how reliable Surefire is when I'm recommending a light not even out yet.

There's another model called the Invictus coming out later, which is the same light, except very slightly longer, and it has no variable-focus ability.
The upside?
It has..



400 LUMENS.
That seems merely like a number..
Go ask about the Surefire M6, a 500 lumen incandescent, and you'll know why it's so amazing. I would gladly shell out 400+ dollars for a 400 lumen Every Day Carry light. I'll probably get both. If I could pick one? Optimus. 200 Lumens is blindingly bright, which is why it has multiple modes. When I got my first multi-level I thought "I'll be using this on high all the time.", untill I actually SAW it.
 

Wattnot

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The L1 has perhaps the most idiot-proof UI in a flashlight IMO.

It's more than just idiot proof . . . . it's elegantly simplistic and intuitive. Another way to use it is to twist it on to low, then you can still mash the button for momentary high with a return to low. That's how I use it when I'm working on something.

But there are other reasons the L1 is better for your application: The pushbutton is forward and silent and the knruling is aggresive. There hasn't been much negative written here about the E1B except that it's somewhat slippery and I believe the switch is a clicky. A true tactical flashlight would have a silent switch. Stick with the L1 or it's larger siblings with the same UI.

A member here pushed me into buying an L1 and it's become one of my favorite lights. I like it even more than my A2 (yikes, I'm gonna be in trouble for saying that!!).
 

cv3po

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But there are other reasons the L1 is better for your application: The pushbutton is forward and silent and the knruling is aggresive. There hasn't been much negative written here about the E1B except that it's somewhat slippery and I believe the switch is a clicky. A true tactical flashlight would have a silent switch. Stick with the L1 or it's larger siblings with the same UI.quote]



Just a note here: The E1B forward clicky switch also has a "silent" momentary mode................i.e. you don't have to push it until it clicks on to get light or to switch modes.
 

crocodilo

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All is said about the L1 interface. I couldn't imagine anything better.

What has not been said: do not be fooled by only having "65" lumens in the L1. It will easily outhrow much higher rated lights, due to it's tight beam.

Only got my l1 a few days ago, but it han't left my pocket yet. The flashlight it pushed away was a pocet rocket, a Fenix P1DQ5 with Leef body and clicky/momentary swicth. I'm still in love with the Fenix/Leef, but the L1 just seems... perfect.
 

RWT1405

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I'm curious why you would carry the L1 over a 6P with Malkoff M60? To me the Malkoff M60 is the perfect carry light with CCW.

Maybe it's just me but the L1 may be an OK EDC light (yes, it's true, I don't care for it), but for CCW I want a light that does 1 & only 1 thing, produce lots & lots of bright light, and is ONLY used for use with gun, so that it works when it's needed (not as an EDC light). Thus the L1 (if it was my EDC light) would be used for everything but the gun light.

The narrow beam (funny how I remember people not liking the Inova TIROS beam, which to me is very similar to the L1). I suppose the L1 would be ok for EDC, but I perfer the NovaTac 120E or such (Fenix L1T, P3D, etc).
 
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jzmtl

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L1 has a very tight hotspot and very weak spill. It's beam is very different from novatac, so you may or may not like it.
 

Wattnot

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RWT1405 does make a good point. The L1 achieves it's unreal throw by sacraficing spill. This might not be the best thing for a handgun weapon light. I would want a LOT of light and a LOT of spill if I was clearing a room. The 6P with the Malkoff will out throw it an have a big spill as well. I don't own a 6P but I believe the UI is the same as the L1 and the G2, A2, etc? But then again there's the size issue if this is for EDC. Lots to consider. Why don't you do some dry runs in the house? That might help you in making your decision.

You already have one a 6P with an M60 I see. But you should still get an L1 anyway! They're awesome!
 

Crenshaw

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oh, thats 4 differnt threads maxa beam..:p

anyway, i agree on the L1's UI being the most idiot proof.

but, i personally do not like the beam, almost no spill. and just about no usable spill. And this is just me, but i think a light that feels that good to hold and use, really should be alot brighter then it is.

Crenshaw
 

Kippers

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Jul 1, 2006
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I have thought about getting the L1, but I do want a pretty bright spill beam for trail walking. Is there a noticeable difference between the clear L1 lens, the somewhat frosted, and the frosted lens as regarding spill/throw?
 

jonesy

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Jan 10, 2008
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thank you all

Wow, lots of good info so far from everybody. I am aware of the upcoming Optimus, but it seems a little big for EDC- it's still on the want-to-buy list though. I have quite a bit of junk in my pockets as it is, so a full-size light would be hard to pack. Between cell phone/keys/space pen/pocket knives/ loose change/note pad/wallet I'm running out of room. ;)

As for why I don't carry the 6P, it's a little big sometimes depending on what kind of pants I have on, and the lower runtime makes it kind of impractical. It also kicks out a lot of lumens- I don't really need 240 to see behind the fridge. Maybe a good IWB holster for it would make it easier to pack on me.

Truth be told, I don't get to CCW as much as I would prefer (can't at work), but I still want the same light on me so I'm used to the mode of operation. I guess one option is to get a good holster for the 6P for pure CCW use and still have a decent secondary in the pocket that will be my new EDC. The usage mode seems similar enough compared to my novatac that I wouldn't get confused when stressed. Anyone have a holster suggestion?

I'm pretty much been sold on the L1 by you all. It seemed like a good choice, as it's small enough that I won't not want to have it on me, and simple enough that it won't break. The aggressive knurling is a big plus. I like to go camping as well, so the ability to put it on the bill of a hat as an impromptu headlamp is a plus. Not quite as much spill as I'm used to but I'm sure I'll manage.

Thanks again for all the good info. I believe I'm off to buy a new flashlight now. :devil:
 

H2Orower

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My vote would go to the E1B or perhaps another clicky such as the E1L or E2L depending on the physical size and lumen output desired. I got hooked on Surefire flashlights just this last fall when I was looking for a nice small high quality light to use at work. I found this website and read through all the great info and opinions here and decided to buy the L1. I was, and still am, amazed at the build quality and beautiful beam, but found myself very quickly dissatisfied with the tailcap and its requirement to hold pressure or twist several turns for light output. I next purchased an E2L and found the tailcap switch much more practical and satisfying for my purposes, but kinda missed the compactness, brightness, and cool factor of the smaller L1. When the E1B came out recently I purchased one immediately and found it to be nearly perfect with the small exception of the slippery factor that others have mentioned. My solution, after seeing pictures of other members lights, was to purchase a Z68 shrouded tailcap direct from Surefire. It gives my E1B a really nice feel in the hand, eliminates the feeling that the light was slipping when I pressed the tailcap, and just plain looks great in my opinion. In the short time that I've been reading CPF posts, it's very clear to me that there are generally two distinct and strongly opinionated camps when it comes to tailcap switches - twisty and clicky. The only thing to do is try them both yourself with your own hands and form your own opinion. It's clicky all the way for me!:thumbsup:
 

Chrontius

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Re: thank you all

AKJ Concealco makes some awful-nice OWB flashlight holsters. I'll be ordering a SF125a next paycheck - SF standing for 'small flashlight', 125 being 1.25", a being antiroll - just the ticket for a 6p bezel-down.

I'll then be adding some grip to the 6p, and calling it an ad-hoc combatlight.
 

fireboltr

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I know its not on your list but to operate in the way you mentioned i would almost suggest the e1l dual output dont let the 45lumen rating fool you it will keep up with the g2l ive got with beter throw to boot

operation from low to high with click is the way the e1l dual output works.....

just my 2cents worth I used to chase the lumen ratings and only lumen rating for a long time but have found that the lower surefire lights shure can hold thier own and the customer service is absolutely top notch

thats why i have gone from no surefires to 3 in a very short time and i still want more!!!!
 
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