SureFire G2 + Malkoff as weapon light - clickie or twistie?

Ok, I've been lurking for a while as I've recently gotten bitten by the flashlight bug (lightning bug?). I've currently got two SureFire G2 Nitrolons (I'm going to gift one to a buddy), one E1L Outdoorsman (the new one), and one G2L on it's way to me. One of the G2's is currently attached to my carbine with a SureFire P61 120 lumen incandescent bulb installed.

I'm not as happy with the P61 as I thought I would be. It seems that it doesn't have as much throw as the regular P60 bulb the G2's come with, and not to terribly much more spill. Sure, it's overall brighter, but I think I want lots of throw with a little spill (and the option to install a diffuser).

So here's my question: how long can I run a M60 Malkoff in a regular G2 Nitrolon without loosing flashlight integrity (i.e. melting the head)? Would I be better off getting a M60L instead? Should I just wait and install the P60L bulb from my incoming G2L in the G2 on my carbine?

Either way, I think I'm going to get a M60 to put in my G2L. I think it's going to be my carry/defense flashlight (since all the guns are at home) while I'm deployed over here in Korea.

So... suggestions/comments? You guys seem like a pretty knowledgeable bunch (and some pretty cool cats at that).

SureFire G2 as weapon light - clickie or twistie?

I'm currently using a G2 Nitrolon as my carbine weapon light. I'm trying to decide if I want to stick with the twistie cap for power, or if I want to switch to a clickie type cap. I don't really care for the pressure switch types with the cord coming out the back of the flashlight (to much of a liability, in my opinion). So, what say the masses?

Re: SureFire G2 as weapon light - clickie or twistie?

As a firearm mounted light, the G2 will be subject to a significant amount of recoil. Also, should you drop your weapon, you have the weight of the gun falling and potentially damaging the tailcap. The twisty is practically bulletproof, and will take this abuse. With my experience of click-switches, I cannot guarantee the same reliability under these conditions.

Re: SureFire G2 as weapon light - clickie or twistie?

It should be noted that my carbine does NOT have any amount of significant recoil. It's an FN PS90-TR (5.7x28mm). Does this change anything?

Re: SureFire G2 as weapon light - clickie or twistie?

FSCJedi said:

Does this change anything?

Click to expand...

Not really. In general use, the standard switch fitted to the G2 will long outlive a click-switch unit, so I would stick with what is already there.

Re: G2 Nitrolon + Malkoff for weaponlight?

Welcome to CPF, FSCJedi.

I am merging your 2 threads. It was not really necessary to start a second one.

I am also amending the title to reflect the subject matter of the combined thread.

Re: G2 Nitrolon + Malkoff for weaponlight?

DM51 said:

Welcome to CPF, FSCJedi.

I am merging your 2 threads. It was not really necessary to start a second one.

I am also amending the title to reflect the subject matter of the combined thread.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the welcome! I wasn't sure about one or two threads, so I opted for two. I find that with some of the forums I'm on, multiple questions in one thread tend to leave you with many of them unanswered.

Re: G2 Nitrolon + Malkoff for weaponlight?

LOL, I know what you mean. Some members will even ignore your questions completely and answer ones you did not ask!

As a general rule, it is almost always best to stick to an existing thread rather than start a new one. If you end up with a lot of threads on one subject, there can be confusion and cross-posting. That is why you will quite often find moderators merging threads.

Twisty for your carbine.

I can't believe the clicky is currently winning on the poll. This is a weapon-light. I would not trust a clicky for two main reasons:

1) They are not as reliable
2) A momentary on switch (twisty) is quiet and is extremely simple to operate under stress i.e. push for on, push harder, still on, release off. A clicky may be inadvertantly clicked on even though the user only intended for a momentary blast of light. This could prove to be unintended and unwanted in certain situations. Under stress a user may push too hard and completely activate the clicky switch, which would not happen with a twisty. If the weapon is not for tactical usage then this is much less of an issue but I'd still refer back to #1.

A little more info on my carbine set-up: the flashlight is attached on the same side as my firing hand - the right side. I have nothing attached to the left side so that the carbine will lay flat against my body while attached to a sling. To activate/operate the flashlight, I will need to either remove my hand from the grip/trigger, or reach over the weapon with my supporting hand. This being the case, using the flashlight in "momentary on" mode is not really an option. It's either on, or it isn't.

Does this change anyone's opinion?

Also, what does everyone think about my questions about the bulb swap?

FSCJedi said:

A little more info on my carbine set-up: the flashlight is attached on the same side as my firing hand - the right side. I have nothing attached to the left side so that the carbine will lay flat against my body while attached to a sling. To activate/operate the flashlight, I will need to either remove my hand from the grip/trigger, or reach over the weapon with my supporting hand. This being the case, using the flashlight in "momentary on" mode is not really an option. It's either on, or it isn't.

Does this change anyone's opinion?

Also, what does everyone think about my questions about the bulb swap?

Click to expand...

You need to move the light to a position where you can activate the light & fire the carbine at the same time. You should not have to change the position of your hands on your carbine in order to activate the light, and you definitely dont want to remove your strong/firing hand from your shooting grip to activate it! The most you should have to do is reposition your thumb to push the activation source on your light.

Just about everything in regards to setting up a fighting weapon is a compromise, but the one you are making for a little added comfort when slinging your weapon effectively takes your carbine out of the fight for a period of time, and turns you into a bullet magnet once you activate your light in the "Constant-ON" position. This is NOT an acceptable compromise. :shakehead Just say NO!!!

One of the last things you want to do is to be running around with your light permanently ON while taking fire from someone that wants you dead. This will only make it that much easier for them to locate your position. Ideally, you want to momentarily light up a potential target in order to identify it as a threat or not, turn the light off, move off of the line of attack, and engage the threat if needed. Larry Vickers has some excellent tips on his website on weapon light use: http://www.vickerstactical.com/Tips/whiteLight.htm

I suggest mounting the light at the 10:30-11:00 position on your carbine. Whether or not you use a vertical grip, these positions work well. The Vtac mount is an excellent option for the G2L, and it places the light in a ergonomically desirable position. It is also very inexpensive, yet very solid/durable. Dont let anyone tell you "its plastic, its cheap, blah, blah, blah" Some of the most highly respected trainers in the LE/Mil training community use this same set-up on their "Go-To" guns.

As far as the LED goes....If your are going to ad a high output LED you need to run the current G2L configuration with the aluminum bezel. You can find a 6P bezel to replace the nitrolon/plastic bezel on the one you currently have. The nitrolon bezel wont allow the current high output LED's to perform to their potential as it wont manage the heat given off by them efficiently.

I suggest you get a Malkoff M60 high output drop-in for one of your G2's (with the aluminum 6P style bezel!!!), the Vtac offset light mount, and a Z49 clicky tailcap or stick with the standard twisty tailcap, whichever you feel comfortable with, and call it a day. I prefer the design of the Z49 clicky switch as the protective rubber boot around the button helps lower the likely-hood of a accidental momentary light discharge, but I rarely, if ever use it in the "Constant/Click-ON" position.

Here is a pic of my G2L/Vtac/Malkoff/Z49 set-up on my Krebs AK:


Here is a pic of how easy it is to reach the switch to activate the light:


*ETA: I see you are working with a FN PS90 so the Vtac mount may or may not work. My advice on light placement/set-up on you carbine still applies to your FN, so work it out!

NickDrak said:

*ETA: I see you are working with a FN PS90 so the Vtac mount may or may not work. My advice on light placement/set-up on you carbine still applies to your FN, so work it out!

Click to expand...

Yeah, I was going to comment on that fact, but you caught it yourself. Haha.

The other part of the reason I kept the light on the right side is because that means that NOTHING is obstructing my view on the left side. I use an EOTech holographic sight for maximum viewing area, and I like having nothing on the left side that would impede that any.

This isn't mine, but here is a picture of what the carbine would look similar to if the flashlight was on the left side:



As you can see, without having a cord and pressure switch, there is no way with the grip design of this weapon that will allow me to just move my thumb a little for momentary on. If the picture showed the full weapon, you would see that where an average shooter would place his/her cheek for a sight picture, the flashlight would interfere with the field of view somewhat (I haven't tested this, I'm just making an educated guess).

I could use one of SureFire's lens covers (either the complete opaque cover, or perhaps a red or diffuser one) - the ones that flip open with slight thumb pressure. That could be activated/opened by reaching under the carbine and applying the appropriate pressure. The more I think about it, the red lens might be good for that... Hmm...

NickDrak said:

As far as the LED goes....If your are going to ad a high output LED you need to run the current G2L configuration with the aluminum bezel. You can find a 6P bezel to replace the nitrolon/plastic bezel on the one you currently have. The nitrolon bezel wont allow the current high output LED's to perform to their potential as it wont manage the heat given off by them efficiently.

I suggest you get a Malkoff M60 high output drop-in for one of your G2's (with the aluminum 6P style bezel!!!), the Vtac offset light mount, and a Z49 clicky tailcap or stick with the standard twisty tailcap, whichever you feel comfortable with, and call it a day. I prefer the design of the Z49 clicky switch as the protective rubber boot around the button helps lower the likely-hood of a accidental momentary light discharge, but I rarely, if ever use it in the "Constant/Click-ON" position

Click to expand...

I hadn't thought about buying a spare 6P bezel to put on my mounted G2. Thanks! I just bought a M60. Hopefully it'll get here about the same time as my G2L. I also like the clickie with the rubber boot. If I decide to go that route, I'll definitely buy that one.

Momentary twisty, because when the SHTF some of your fine motor control goes away as adrenaline pumps, and you may click-on when you only wanted to half-push.

cfromc said:

I can't believe the clicky is currently winning on the poll.

Click to expand...

Nor can I!

I definitly vote twisty for any light used with a weapon. The simplicity and reliability is a must.

Edit:...forgot to say:welcome:
-you will love it here

Surefire has greatly improved their clickies. I personally have never had any trouble with any of the recent clickies on the E or P series lights.

ttran97 said:

Surefire has greatly improved their clickies. I personally have never had any trouble with any of the recent clickies on the E or P series lights.

Click to expand...

After I said I would never use one again and am "testing" two of the new style clickies to see what happens. One is a vehicle light and I have a twisty switch as back-up. Prior to this I was 2 for 2 with the Z58/Z59 series failing. I sold the Z48 and SW02 I had because I thought they would fail. I am willing to give the clickies another chance on general use lights or even emergency lights as long as I have a Z41 standing by. I'm just not willing to (test) try them on weapon lights.

FSCJedi said:

Yeah, I was going to comment on that fact, but you caught it yourself. Haha.

The other part of the reason I kept the light on the right side is because that means that NOTHING is obstructing my view on the left side. I use an EOTech holographic sight for maximum viewing area, and I like having nothing on the left side that would impede that any.


As you can see, without having a cord and pressure switch, there is no way with the grip design of this weapon that will allow me to just move my thumb a little for momentary on. If the picture showed the full weapon, you would see that where an average shooter would place his/her cheek for a sight picture, the flashlight would interfere with the field of view somewhat (I haven't tested this, I'm just making an educated guess).

Click to expand...

I would consider mounting the G2 on the right side, and get a tape switch activation for it such as the XM-07 kit. Otherwise, mounting a X300 to the barrel or the side rail along with a XT-07 would probably be my choice if using that weapon system.