rizky_p
Flashlight Enthusiast
I am confuse on how to wires this board. Can anyone help?
Thanks
Rizki P
Thanks
Rizki P
So I guess my best guess is my first one, one to each side of the filter cap I will give it a shot if I can ever get my test bench set up, and if I can find the darn 115V muffin fans I had set aside for this purpose.
Good luck.
Well, I couldn't get this out of my head and have been looking it over some more. If I could find a data sheet for this IC it would be easy, but since I can't, here is another guess.
Lets assume the IC has 6 pins (well it does) and the one at the top left is 1, top right is 3, bottom left is 4, and bottom right is 6.
I think pin 6 is the ground circuit, and if you notice the small lead that is to the right of the IC that doesn't go anywhere really, I think that is your - emitter hookup. I tested resistance to the pin from that spot and it is pretty much a direct connection.
I think pin 3 is the mosfet switching side of the IC and it controls power to the inductor. After passing through the inductor, you can see it goes to the tiny filter cap that is to the right of the large diode, and then it comes out to the + point that you used.
I think pin 4 is the sensing pin. As far as I can tell, it comes out, goes to an empty pad for another diode that wasn't used, goes into R2, then R3 and finally to ground. Just to sample the current being drawn apparently.
Power comes in where the through hole is in the center. It then passes through the brown ceramic cap for some reason I can't imagine, maybe it is designed that way if for some reason you have a dirty power source? It then goes to the right into the diode, comes out of the diode, into pin 2 to power the chip. It also passes into R3 at the same time. From R3 into seems to go into pin 1 for whatever reason.
And finaly pin 5 appears to be unused, but it test with no resistance from pin 2, I think it goes straight through.
If you look at the picture Koala99 uploaded on the sales page for this item, on the old design, it appears that he is recomending hooking - to pin 4 and positive to pin 6. Well, pin 6 should be fine, but I believe by using pin 4 for his positive lead, he is hooking it up exactly the same way you did. I think the positive needs to be attached after the inductor, and after the filter cap, which on the old circuit would probably be the other side of the yellow cap at the bottom. I don't think that would really change the efficiency any, but it smooths out the output and should help with any flickering.
If you get around to changing the 1 lead for the negative to either pin 6 or the solder point above and to the right I would love to hear your results!
Well, I couldn't get this out of my head and have been looking it over some more. If I could find a data sheet for this IC it would be easy, but since I can't, here is another guess.
Lets assume the IC has 6 pins (well it does) and the one at the top left is 1, top right is 3, bottom left is 4, and bottom right is 6.
I think pin 6 is the ground circuit, and if you notice the small lead that is to the right of the IC that doesn't go anywhere really, I think that is your - emitter hookup. I tested resistance to the pin from that spot and it is pretty much a direct connection.
I think pin 3 is the mosfet switching side of the IC and it controls power to the inductor. After passing through the inductor, you can see it goes to the tiny filter cap that is to the right of the large diode, and then it comes out to the + point that you used.
I think pin 4 is the sensing pin. As far as I can tell, it comes out, goes to an empty pad for another diode that wasn't used, goes into R2, then R3 and finally to ground. Just to sample the current being drawn apparently.
Power comes in where the through hole is in the center. It then passes through the brown ceramic cap for some reason I can't imagine, maybe it is designed that way if for some reason you have a dirty power source? It then goes to the right into the diode, comes out of the diode, into pin 2 to power the chip. It also passes into R3 at the same time. From R3 into seems to go into pin 1 for whatever reason.
And finaly pin 5 appears to be unused, but it test with no resistance from pin 2, I think it goes straight through.
If you look at the picture Koala99 uploaded on the sales page for this item, on the old design, it appears that he is recomending hooking - to pin 4 and positive to pin 6. Well, pin 6 should be fine, but I believe by using pin 4 for his positive lead, he is hooking it up exactly the same way you did. I think the positive needs to be attached after the inductor, and after the filter cap, which on the old circuit would probably be the other side of the yellow cap at the bottom. I don't think that would really change the efficiency any, but it smooths out the output and should help with any flickering.
If you get around to changing the 1 lead for the negative to either pin 6 or the solder point above and to the right I would love to hear your results!
Current does not pass through a capacitor (at least DC doesn't). I think the small device on the right is a diode, the larger black one (labeled 100 6V) is a capacitor.Well, I couldn't get this out of my head and have been looking it over some more. If I could find a data sheet for this IC it would be easy, but since I can't, here is another guess.
Lets assume the IC has 6 pins (well it does) and the one at the top left is 1, top right is 3, bottom left is 4, and bottom right is 6.
I think pin 6 is the ground circuit, and if you notice the small lead that is to the right of the IC that doesn't go anywhere really, I think that is your - emitter hookup. I tested resistance to the pin from that spot and it is pretty much a direct connection.
I think pin 3 is the mosfet switching side of the IC and it controls power to the inductor. After passing through the inductor, you can see it goes to the tiny filter cap that is to the right of the large diode, and then it comes out to the + point that you used.
I think pin 4 is the sensing pin. As far as I can tell, it comes out, goes to an empty pad for another diode that wasn't used, goes into R2, then R3 and finally to ground. Just to sample the current being drawn apparently.
Power comes in where the through hole is in the center. It then passes through the brown ceramic cap for some reason I can't imagine, maybe it is designed that way if for some reason you have a dirty power source? It then goes to the right into the diode, comes out of the diode, into pin 2 to power the chip. It also passes into R3 at the same time. From R3 into seems to go into pin 1 for whatever reason.
I'm not sure if the old design can be used as a reference to the new one, it seems to be completely different.And finaly pin 5 appears to be unused, but it test with no resistance from pin 2, I think it goes straight through.
If you look at the picture Koala99 uploaded on the sales page for this item, on the old design, it appears that he is recomending hooking - to pin 4 and positive to pin 6. Well, pin 6 should be fine, but I believe by using pin 4 for his positive lead, he is hooking it up exactly the same way you did. I think the positive needs to be attached after the inductor, and after the filter cap, which on the old circuit would probably be the other side of the yellow cap at the bottom. I don't think that would really change the efficiency any, but it smooths out the output and should help with any flickering.
If you get around to changing the 1 lead for the negative to either pin 6 or the solder point above and to the right I would love to hear your results!
Koala, can you tell us which pins you are referencing for your positive connection in your picture? Pin 5? Pin6? Or 5 and 6 bridged?
I think we need to revise our pins for further discussion, because there's no Pin 6 in the datasheet.