Northern Lights
Flashlight Enthusiast
PICTURES IN POST #3!
Responding to requests from:
Mag Charger Mod
I will update this with some pictures, seems the information is needed before I have time to document this correctly and test it.
Look at the LVS-7 socket. I got mine from Hong Kong, I assume they are similiar or the same.
http://www.unitedhalogenbulb.com/Halogen%20Light%20Bulb%20Sockets.html#anchor445971
I released the connectors from the socket with a small screw driver and then soldered the crimped leads to ensure long live and good contact; the pin clamps are very good. Rated 250 Volts 10 watts, that is 25 amps of socket ability.
Remove the slug from the mag charger and take out the plastic socket.
ONE METHOD:
Find 4 brass or copper washers (softer metal is better heat sink and drills easier) that drop inside the slug and stop at the top.
Drill the washers to pass the shank of the ceramic socket.
Cut a piece of a brass tube that is just the size of the shank too to a length that is shorter than the shank with two washers on it. You will have the spring center on a nub of the ceramic socket shank.
You can make the assembly to be removable or solder it together.
Drop two washers into the slug. They can be soldered or you can just use high temperature epoxy like arctic alumina and push the ceramic socket shank through up to the shoulder.
Once that is inside the slug you put on the tube as it will take the force of the spring when the last two washers are place over the remaining shank. Before you do this you could and I would pot the socket in place. A small part of the shank should protrude through. With the sockets I have this puts the spring about at the original position.
METHOD TWO:
I used this method this time.
Using brass tubing, in this case I used three sizes, to create a tube that fit snug around the shaft and in the slug (with a lathe, mill or good drill press you could bore out a new slug or spacer). The spring in my case sets at the point half way in the MC slug @ 11.50mm. I cut the tubes that sitting on a washer and the socket being in and flush with the top of the slug that the bottom would be at the 11.50 mm mark. The ceramic socket must be glued in place with ceramic epoxy, high temp epoxy or even automotive RTV silicone could do it. The brass tubes or whatevers can be held just by the spring pressure or can be attatched to each other with adhesives or solder.
I typically hard wire my bi pin sockets even while retaining the Mag cam action of the reflector. One wire goes to + the other is fished out the bottom of the spring and to a small hole put in the cage. Best place to put it is opposite the cam wheel as there is a slot, you should place it so the wire does not crimp and can move.
Be careful you + will not crimp and short out. I did have to trim some off the bottom of the socket ceramic shank to get the spring to sit where I wanted it. The spring must now be insulated from the + end of the switch as it has become part of ground.
Ok this is the short version, my proto is not tested. I will edit this thread with pictures and comments later.
User you imagination, this is what I am working with, but all that is needed is a slug to go inside the MC slug with a hole in it. Aluminum spacers, brass nuts, anything like that will do, but put the spring pressure on the slug not the socket.
I have made G6.35 sockets before. If you reverse the MC slug you can put the G6.35 socket in, that raises the cams in relation to everything and the now lower half of the slug can be cut off. This will compensate for long G6.35 bulbs like the IRC.
I have some KD pr to bi pin sockets. It looks like they can easily be fitted from the top into some tubing and put into the Slug like this ceramic socket and the same method used to make another type of DIY MC ceramic socket.
PICTURES IN POST #3!
Responding to requests from:
Mag Charger Mod
I will update this with some pictures, seems the information is needed before I have time to document this correctly and test it.
Look at the LVS-7 socket. I got mine from Hong Kong, I assume they are similiar or the same.
http://www.unitedhalogenbulb.com/Halogen%20Light%20Bulb%20Sockets.html#anchor445971
I released the connectors from the socket with a small screw driver and then soldered the crimped leads to ensure long live and good contact; the pin clamps are very good. Rated 250 Volts 10 watts, that is 25 amps of socket ability.
Remove the slug from the mag charger and take out the plastic socket.
ONE METHOD:
Find 4 brass or copper washers (softer metal is better heat sink and drills easier) that drop inside the slug and stop at the top.
Drill the washers to pass the shank of the ceramic socket.
Cut a piece of a brass tube that is just the size of the shank too to a length that is shorter than the shank with two washers on it. You will have the spring center on a nub of the ceramic socket shank.
You can make the assembly to be removable or solder it together.
Drop two washers into the slug. They can be soldered or you can just use high temperature epoxy like arctic alumina and push the ceramic socket shank through up to the shoulder.
Once that is inside the slug you put on the tube as it will take the force of the spring when the last two washers are place over the remaining shank. Before you do this you could and I would pot the socket in place. A small part of the shank should protrude through. With the sockets I have this puts the spring about at the original position.
METHOD TWO:
I used this method this time.
Using brass tubing, in this case I used three sizes, to create a tube that fit snug around the shaft and in the slug (with a lathe, mill or good drill press you could bore out a new slug or spacer). The spring in my case sets at the point half way in the MC slug @ 11.50mm. I cut the tubes that sitting on a washer and the socket being in and flush with the top of the slug that the bottom would be at the 11.50 mm mark. The ceramic socket must be glued in place with ceramic epoxy, high temp epoxy or even automotive RTV silicone could do it. The brass tubes or whatevers can be held just by the spring pressure or can be attatched to each other with adhesives or solder.
I typically hard wire my bi pin sockets even while retaining the Mag cam action of the reflector. One wire goes to + the other is fished out the bottom of the spring and to a small hole put in the cage. Best place to put it is opposite the cam wheel as there is a slot, you should place it so the wire does not crimp and can move.
Be careful you + will not crimp and short out. I did have to trim some off the bottom of the socket ceramic shank to get the spring to sit where I wanted it. The spring must now be insulated from the + end of the switch as it has become part of ground.
Ok this is the short version, my proto is not tested. I will edit this thread with pictures and comments later.
User you imagination, this is what I am working with, but all that is needed is a slug to go inside the MC slug with a hole in it. Aluminum spacers, brass nuts, anything like that will do, but put the spring pressure on the slug not the socket.
I have made G6.35 sockets before. If you reverse the MC slug you can put the G6.35 socket in, that raises the cams in relation to everything and the now lower half of the slug can be cut off. This will compensate for long G6.35 bulbs like the IRC.
I have some KD pr to bi pin sockets. It looks like they can easily be fitted from the top into some tubing and put into the Slug like this ceramic socket and the same method used to make another type of DIY MC ceramic socket.
PICTURES IN POST #3!
Last edited:
