My new P3D water test video

mighty82

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I did. Thank you. :twothumbs

Are Fenix lights submersible only when the head is fully tightened in Turbo or high, or is it also OK when the bezel is a half turn or so loose in another mode?
It's okay either way, but you can't turn the head while under water.
 

portezbie

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Great vid!
Also now we know what happens if u drop ur flashlight in the toilet while taking a wiz.
 

mighty82

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Did anyone doubt that it was water tight? I have always washed my flashlights in the sink every time they get dirty. :thinking:
 

TONY M

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I've had my E01 and L2D under water. The head can be turned back and forth from turbo - normal no problem with the L2D. Just don't loosen the head more than a 1/8 turn or so from turbo in case water gets in.
 

Sir Lightalot

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I take my Lod on my hot tub at night and cycle mode under water and it has never let in a drop. Oh ya and i have also taken it on a water slide at a water park.
 

IMSabbel

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I take my Lod on my hot tub at night and cycle mode under water and it has never let in a drop. Oh ya and i have also taken it on a water slide at a water park.

Thank god. I was beginning to think I am the only one to do that :D
 

x59628

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with the L2T v2.0, you can turn the bezel under water as much as you want, as long as you keep the o-ring greased well. They are rated at IPX-8, so they were designed for continuous submersion. Sometimes when my Fenix gets really dirty, I take it into the shower and jet it with some hot water to get the grease and dirt off it.
 

Gado

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I took my L1D in the pool with me one time, I was in the 6 feet deep area but the light was about 3 feet deep. I switched modes but never tried twisting the head. Oh yeah it still works. :D
 

Blue72

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IPX standards are just a marketing ploy. They give you no idea of the water resistance of a light.

Also a Kitchen sink is a poor indicator of water resistance. It needs to be under pressure or at depth for a length of time.

I am not saying the Fenix is not water resistant, just the test does not replicate real world usage.

Many years ago I put a Mag solitaire in my kitchen sink for an hour and it performed flawlessly. But when I went white water rafting it was soaked.

Almost any light with o-rings can handle sitting in a sink with water, the same goes for water resistant watches.

Watches are great examples because they use o-ring seals and have a lens.

When it comes to real world water resistance 50m (over 150 feet) is deeper than what most divers will ever do.

The way watches are rated. They are stuck into a pressure jar compressed, sitting there on the bottom. This is a hydrostatic pressure test, meaning the water does not move.

However, the second you move a watch under pressure, you increase the pressure the watch is getting on one side, while decreasing it on the other. So essentially, the second you move, you have just multiplied the pressure by many times. Now hit it on a rock while under water and imagine how much pressure there must be there!

The reality is even though less than 1% will ever actually go to 100m, let alone 200m, you need a higher rated watch for scuba because of the stresses and movement it goes through at depth.

Thats why when you see guidelines for a dive watch it looks something like this

Water Resistant: Will resist moisture from accidental splashing, rain, sweat, etc.
Water Resistant 30M: Will resist moisture and can be submerged, no swimming
Water Resistant 50M: Will resist moisture and can also be worn while swimming in shallow water.
Water Resistant 100M: Watch may be worn during snorkelling, skin-diving, and swimming.
Water Resistant 200M: (plus): Watch may be worn during standard scuba diving.
Water Resistant 1000M: Watch may be worn for deep sea diving


Think of a watch that indicates 30M of water resistance: Your pool is 10M deep so you should be safe right? Well, the force of your arm crashing down as you swim will exceed the static pressures the watch was rated for. A person will not scuba dive to depths of 200M however, if one is scuba diving then a 200M+ watch is recommended.

Hence the same reason why my maglite solitaire failed when I was white water rafting even though it performed flawlessly in the kitchen sink and pool.
 

WadeF

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Good info dd61999. I used to sell cameras, and some were rated as splash proof, or okay to be submerged, but not very deep. However, it warned against washing them off under pressurized water coming out of a sink tap. I think someone on here posted about thaking their splash proof flashlight in the shower and holding it up to the shower head. The pressurized streams of water penatrated the light. :)

So a better test would be to take a P3D and your bath tub, a bucket, swimming poll, etc, and slam it into the water as hard as you can from every direction you can. Just punch, whip, smack, etc, the thing into the water. I want to see a video like that. :)
 

Sir Lightalot

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I took my L1D in the pool with me one time, I was in the 6 feet deep area but the light was about 3 feet deep. I switched modes but never tried twisting the head. Oh yeah it still works. :D

I was just in a pool an hour ago with my Lod and after i was done using it i set it on the edge. Then of course i forgot about it and found it at the bottom of the pool 30 minutes later at 6ft.:ohgeez: And of course not a single leak.:twothumbs
 

Blue72

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So a better test would be to take a P3D and your bath tub, a bucket, swimming poll, etc, and slam it into the water as hard as you can from every direction you can. Just punch, whip, smack, etc, the thing into the water. I want to see a video like that. :)


I think to have someone put the light under pressure for 1 hour would be a better test. Because if the light does leak it might be very small and unnoticeable, so you need the time in order for the water to build up.

There are some high end watch dealers that will do this test for $15-20
 
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