KL1 and rechargeable?

Hi,
I am currently EDC'ing the pre-CREE E1L (30lumen) and am quite happy so far. I also have a E2L body laying around. Before I go out and get the latest E1L, E1B or L1, I'd like to see if there are other options. I have seen past posts that have tried using a 3.7v RCR123 in the old E1L, does it really work well and is it significantly brighter than using a primary? How about a dual output KX2 and rechargeables on the E1L body. I would still have the option of a lego'ed E2L available to me.
Thanks,
braindoc

This is my favorite Lego combo for EDC. It's the KX2-BK head with the E1B body and E1e-BK tailcap. You can use an RCR123 3.7 v rechargeable with this setup.



It would also work with an E1e-BK body...and you end up with this (minus the E1B clip pictured):



You cannot use RCR123 3.7 v batteries with the E1B head, nor the KX1 head. I don't know about the older KL1 heads. RCR123 3.7v batteries work with the KX2 and E2DL heads.

With the E2DL head, you can make an E1DL:

Wow! It boggles the mind. Let see if it works with the old KL1 head, I'm cheap. ttran97, how bright and what are the runtimes you get with your set up?
braindoc

braindoc said:

Wow! It boggles the mind. Let see if it works with the old KL1 head, I'm cheap. ttran97, how bright and what are the runtimes you get with your set up?
braindoc

Click to expand...

Runtime on high is roughly 50 minutes on high with one RCR123 3.7v. Runtime on low is like days. Brightness is pretty much just as bright as the E1B stock, so 80 - 100 lumens?

You might end up with a slow strobe effect on your KL1 head. That's what happens in the KX1 and E1B head. The circuit is trying to limit the voltage so it'll start slow strobing. The circuitry in the KX2 and E2DL heads are buck/boost so they don't have any problems. They even run ok with two RCR123's in a two-cell body...with a slight increase in brightness for high, and substance increase for the low.

ttran97,
In that case, I won't try to reinvent the wheel. What brand of batteries and chargers do you have? I plan to order from Lighthound soon.
braindoc

braindoc said:

ttran97,
In that case, I won't try to reinvent the wheel. What brand of batteries and chargers do you have? I plan to order from Lighthound soon.
braindoc

Click to expand...

I use the AW RCR123 3.7 v batteries from lighthound, too. I like their big charger. I can't remember the name, but it can also charge 17670's and 17500's. If you use the big charger to charge RCR123's, you'll need to get the aluminum charging spacer. I think it's a dollar? Not sure. Just look around on their site. You can't miss it.

very interesting!

question: if I put an E2DL head on my E1E body, how do I select Lo/Hi modes?

ttran97 said:

I can't remember the name, but it can also charge 17670's and 17500's.

Click to expand...

I believe it's the WF-139

Meltdown said:

very interesting!

question: if I put an E2DL head on my E1E body, how do I select Lo/Hi modes?

Click to expand...

You change like you do with the E1B, E1L, E2L, E2DL...you tap the button to switch levels. The E1B and E2DL heads are high first....then you tap the clickie to switch to low. The KX1 and KX2 heads are low first, then high.

ttran97 said:

You might end up with a slow strobe effect on your KL1 head. That's what happens in the KX1 and E1B head.

Click to expand...

Actually the old KL1 heads (all versions - there are at least 3 or 4) are very flexible. I believe they have a buck/boost circuit. They can run on 1 or 2 primaries, or a 3.7V Li-ion (RCR123, 17670, etc.). They can even handle 2xRCR123's. And they will suck primaries dry. I use mine as battery "drainers" around the house.