Questions on boring 6p/g2 bodies for 18650

can I do this with a drill press using the appropriate bit/reamer?

and secondly...once bored can I still use a pair of CR123 batteries?

it would seem like everyone would want these bored out in that case.

or does somebody want to bore my lights for a fee?

thank you!!

I don't think the sleeve in the G2 is large enough to be bored for 18650.

If I was going to bore out a light for 18650, I would use 3/4in (19.05mm).

You can still use 2xCR123s, it may be a bit loose but I haven't found it objectionable in my Leef and Fivemega 6P compatible bodies.

There are a few CPF members who will do the boring for you, one of them is scott.cr : https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/199849
If you decide to do it yourself, just be sure to leave a little shelf for the negative contact of the lamp assembly.

PhotonAddict said:

You can still use 2xCR123s, it may be a bit loose but I haven't found it objectionable in my Leef and Fivemega 6P compatible bodies.

There are a few CPF members who will do the boring for you, one of them is scott.cr : https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/199849
If you decide to do it yourself, just be sure to leave a little shelf for the negative contact of the lamp assembly.

Click to expand...

If you are planning on using the bored out body for a P60 style drop in, it is not necessary to keep the shelf for the neg contact spring, if you remove that spring.

Bill

PhotonAddict said:

There are a few CPF members who will do the boring for you, one of them is scott.cr

Click to expand...

Thanks for the plug.

This subject comes up now and again. I don't think a drill would leave a satisfactory surface finish because when using a rotary cutter (like a drill), the drill bit "climbs" the wall of the workpiece, cutting in a trochoid rather than a circle. Better bet is a hand reamer. But for the $$$$ you'd pay for the reamer you could have it done on a lathe.

I've personally cut numerous Surefire lights to use an 18650. They still work fine with two CR123s. They fit loosely but don't rattle any more than a stock light once the tailcap is in place. The spring pressure holds them together rather firmly.

And... a lathe allows you to leave the shelf for the negative contact spring. A drill or reamer all but removes this option (figuratively and literally).