Soldering temperature?

Erasmus

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I bought a soldering station a week ago. It's a 45W station and the temperature can be adjusted anywhere between 200 and 480 degrees Celsius. Now I'm wondering which temperature is the best to solder Cree emitters?

Thanks in advance for your help :)
 

Erasmus

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The solder is 60%Sn/40%Pb and melts at 185 degrees Celsius. I'll give it a try at minimum setting (200), hopefully that's enough to melt the small pre-soldered part on the electric path of the LED as well.
 

TexLite

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Not too hot,but not so cool to take an extended amount of time to make the solder flow.

In other words,just hot enough to let the solder flow in 2-3 seconds.Thats usually the recommended amount of time.I wouldnt recommend any different.

I think you'll find with Cree's that your iron temperature will have to be higher than your lowest setting.

Thanks,
Michael
 

eprom

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You will find out the best. But i am using 380 for fast reaction and short soldering time.

Wish Helps.
 

darkzero

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350 - 380 is good for general soldering. I mostly keep mine at 700F.
 

Erasmus

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So according to some people 200 will be enough, while others prefer 380. Doesn't make much sense to me ;)
 

darkzero

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200? 200 is way to low IMO. Even when I replace very delicate SMD components I don't use a temp that low. The lowest I go is probably 325 & that's not often. As eprom mentioned, It's better to keep a bit hotter temp for quick soldering rather than sitting there heating up the component slowly & risk damage.

I almost always keep mine at 370 - 380 even for SMD work. I only use 350 when replacing SMD LEDs & I'm not talking about Crees. I'm taking about the ones found on laptop boards & cell phones. I use the 450 range for soldering heatsinks & heating up to reflow if I don't have hot air available.
 

Erasmus

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I will try it at some different temperatures, I think I still have some Cree's with popped domes to experiment on ;)
 

mikel81

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The lowest temperature that will melt your solder is the right temperature.


A lower temperature might expose the component to heat for longer. The solder should melt pretty quick. Also, for leds I like to mount it to the heatsink before soldering it.
 

LuxLuthor

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A lower temperature might expose the component to heat for longer. The solder should melt pretty quick.

+1

The issue is NOT just using what soldering iron temp will melt solder. You actually need to heat up the intended surfaces to a proper temp so THEY WILL ACCEPT the solder.

A hotter iron (within reason) will heat up parts to be joined faster, and allow proper solder joining with less heat transferred to components. The size and shape of the tip also determines surface area contact with parts. I also use 380° to 450° C with my Hakko 936 Station, and mostly a 900M-T-2.4D tip.

Making sure surfaces of parts & soldering iron are clean, using flux, using a quality rosin core lead (60/40) solder also makes the job easier.
 

TexLite

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Just to clarify my original post,and to re-inforce what has been said by others,if I was not clear enough initially.

The lowest setting will not be nearly hot enough to wet the solder in a few seconds,the max time your iron should be on the components is 2-3 seconds,longer and you risk transfering too much heat into the components.

Excessive heat will cause your tip and the solder on the joint to oxidize very quickly,looking dull in appearance.

The temperatures that have been mentioned are spot on,I would suggest you turn your iron up to about 3/4,try couple of joints,the solder should wet and flow to the wire and LED within a couple of seconds,and be shiny.Adjust until you get to that point.

Most all of the comments so far have been spot on.

Michael
 

DonShock

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There is no "correct" temperature for soldering. It all depends on a variety of conditions. You will need to adjust your temperature up or down as the soldering job changes. Remember that when you apply the iron to the job not only will the iron heat up the joints you are trying to solder but also that the iron tip will cool down also as it transfers heat to the joints. How much depends on the power to the iron, the tip size, the size of the items being soldered, how good of a heat bridge is formed between the various items, and the thermal conductivity of the items. Given all these variables, you can see how it's prettty much impossible to give a "one size fits all" answer. However, the general goal is the same. You need the iron hot enough that you can get all the parts to be soldered up to temperature in a a few seconds, but not so hot as to overheat the parts being soldered or the solder itself. If in doubt, start at a lower temperature and work your way up.

You want to use the lowest temperature which will let you form a good solder joint. You can tell a lot by how the solder performs as you try to make the joint. If the solder doesn't melt nearly instantly, doesn't flow smoothly, or only melts in the immediate area of the iron; the temperature is too low. If the solder gets dull and overheated almost immediately after touching it to the iron, or the circit board or other components discolor/melt quickly, then the iron is too hot.

Ideally, you should be able to touch the iron the the components to be soldered, apply a small bit of solder to form a heat bridge, then pause only a second or two to let the parts come up to temp. Then you should be able to continue applying more solder to form a hjoint and it should melt immediately and flow smoothly to cover all areas of the joint. The entire process should take no more than about 10 seconds. If it takes longer than that, you either don't have a good heat bridge between the parts or your temperature is too low. Likewise, if you see the solder or the components overheating in that same time, you have the iron too hot. Personally, I use the appearance of the solder itself to tell if the iron is too hot. If it's getting overheated quickly, I turn down the iron.

So much of this is hard to describe, but if you do a little practicing you should start seeing how the solder performs once the heat is just right. The symptoms of too little or too much heat are fairly apparent.
 

koala

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The knob on your station is not accurate unless you've calibrated the system.

Warming up the CREE slowly is good. Too much heat in a short time, "bubbles" will form in your cree. Use lots of flux to improve thermal transfer, flux will help you solder like a pro. Remember to clean up the flux after your done.
 

darkzero

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What do you use to clean the flux?

The most readily available & cheapest is to use isoproponal alcohol & a b rush. Isoproponal is also known as isopropyl or "rubbing alcohol" but that's 70%. You want 99% which you can find at an electronics store. You can use 70% but it does not work very good for rosin base flux.

There's also "no clean" flux but I prefer rosin base flux as it works a lot better. Like koala mentioned, you should always clean flux off as it can be conductive. I also use flux always even if the connections are clean.
 
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