My Romisen is naked!!!!

DUQ

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
1,824
Location
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
I got an itch for stripping down my Romisen RC-D4. So before all the lads came in this morning; I whipped out the drain cleaner and......

picture041mz0.jpg

picture043gh3.jpg

picture042cs2.jpg


There are a few minor blemishes in the metal so maybe it will come out when I polish it.
 

12Johnny

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 9, 2008
Messages
146
Location
Spain
Looks strange, but GREAT!!! :twothumbs

Drain cleaner? I had no idea that it worked so well........... :thumbsup:
 

DM51

Flashaholic
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
13,338
Location
Borg cube #51
Interesting!

What is in drain cleaner - is it NaOH? It certainly worked, whatever it is.

What was the finish on the light before you applied it - HA or type II ano? How long did you have to soak it to get it down to the bare metal?

Please show us the pics when you have finished polishing it.
 

rala

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 10, 2006
Messages
159
Location
southern california
i don't know if this will work with our lights, but back in my hotwheel collecting days, i used to strip the paint off of them or buy the bare metal cars and soak them in clothes dye for a day or so. come the next day, i would wash em off and they'd be a nice shade of whatever color i used. granted it would be a lighter shade.


note: like i said before, i dont kno if this works for all metal, so try at your own risk. or sacrifice a hot wheel if you wanna try it.
 

DUQ

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
1,824
Location
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Great idea rala. I think I'll give it a try on the tailcap and see what happens. The drain cleaner I used was lye based. It only took about five minutes to get the type II finish off. Quick cold water rinse followed by a 190F bath (one good thing about running a boiler plant).
 
Last edited:

greenLED

Flashaholic
Joined
Mar 26, 2004
Messages
13,263
Location
La Tiquicia
Interesting!

What is in drain cleaner - is it NaOH? It certainly worked, whatever it is.

What was the finish on the light before you applied it - HA or type II ano? How long did you have to soak it to get it down to the bare metal?

Please show us the pics when you have finished polishing it.

Yup, it contains NaOH. IIRC, it took under 10 minutes to strip Type II anodizing with a 1M (molar) solution. For Type III, I used a much stronger solution and it took about 3 minutes.

(warning! Don't try the latter at home - I had access to a fully stocked chemical lab, with all sorts of safety gear, and am trained to do this, yada-yada-yada.)


The Encyclopedia CPFannica of anodize stripping.
 

DUQ

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
1,824
Location
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Quick update. I decided to try to dye the light in a strong solution of cloth dye. I started the process Thursday evening and I'm planning on leaving it for around seven days. I chose dark green. I'll post another update in a few days.

picture048oc0.jpg

picture049no1.jpg
 

Nos

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 21, 2007
Messages
461
Location
Germany
can the dye really stick on the aluminiumoxid surface? :shakehead i doubt that it will work, but who knows. you never know unless you try ;)
 

Monocrom

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 27, 2006
Messages
20,131
Location
NYC
Wow, the cleaning really makes it impossible to tell exactly what light it is.... Ultrafire WF-500 was the first thing that came to mind.
 

AvPD

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
343
Location
Adelaide, Australia
I've tried a bit of my own de-anodising (with some oven cleaner), how are you polishing the aluminium/aluminum? I used some fine grained wet sandpaper and a cloth polishing wheel (which can put scratches back on the surface).
 

DUQ

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
1,824
Location
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
As Stefan has mentioned; I used felt buffing wheels on my Dremel with some car cleaner polish.
Will the dye penetrate the aluminum? I'm not sure but it is worth a try for around $5 of dye.
 

MWClint

Enlightened
Joined
May 27, 2008
Messages
849
Location
Albany, NY
rit dye alone really wont penetrate..it might get a small tint..but thats just from the dye particles getting physically stuck inside the pores in the aluminum, which rub off quickly with use and will usually just stick to
crevices. it might actually look cool like that tho.


i tried this long ago with r/c car parts and rit dye.
one of the hardcore flashlight modders can probably verify if i miss anything.

you need:
rubbermaid bucket(walmart)
car battery charger 2/6/10amp (harbor freight or walmart)
1 gallon sulfuric acid(car battery acid- napa might still carry it-but in 5gallon jugs only?),
3 gallons distilled water(grocery store),
aluminum plate (hobby store definitly/true value/maybe jo ann fabrics)
aluminum wire( home depot/lowes)
rit dye(grocery store)

make a 3:1 solution of distilled water and sulfuric acid in your bucket.. enough to cover your light. pour the water in FIRST, and then slowly add the
acid..(never in reverse, as it will boil the acid quickly).

connect the negative wire of charger to the aluminum plate and dip the plate in the water-secure it to the side of the bucket. also dont let the clamp/copper negative wire touch the water/acid bath.

attach positive wire of charger to aluminum wire - bend and slip it through the flaslight body. hang it into the solution and do not allow it to touch the aluminum plate from the previous step. again only allow aluminum metal to
touch the bath.

i would start the charger at 2amp for a small flashlight and if you dont start
to see bubbles forming on your peice/plate then bump it to 6 or 10amps..

heat will form in the water..you want to keep it somewhat cool(as heat will seal the anodizing). so take some water bottles which have been frozen and put one or two in the bucket while the process is going.

i would say about 90 minutes would sufficiently build up a decent anodizing surface on the light. while it's in the bath..the flashlight should get a dull grey-yellowish tint to it. once that tint is uniform on the entire flashlight..take it out. if you leave it in too long, the anodizing surface can
become rough.

and while the part is nearing completion in the acid bath......
make a pot of water and put your rit dye in it and heat it up to 100 degrees..no hotter!

and heat up another pan with boiling distilled water....

when the part is done in the anodigzin bath, rinse it with COLD water
and drop it into the 100 degree rit dye bath for 15 minutes.

then drop the part into boiling water for a few minutes

let it cool and dry..enjoy.

EDIT: just picked up a 1 Liter/32oz container of sulfuric acid at autozone.
it was only $4. i'll mess with it later in the week.
 
Last edited:

lctorana

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
2,123
Location
Melbourne, Australia
A partial success.

Might it have been more effective, perhaps, if you hadn't polished it before the dye phase? Just thinking out loud.
 
Top