E2e bezel gap

Hello guys, long time no post.
I just bought an E2e a few weeks ago; great form factor, tough light. i think it's worth the money. (like a minimag on steroids). What i don't understand is why there is a small gap between the bezel and the flashlight body even though the bezel is screwed down tight. Anyways, the real problem is the heavy fogging on the reflector when I use the light..
I called SF and they're sending a replacement bezel. Is the bezel a gap a normal thing?
Enjoy the night air...

Is it possible you can take some photos please?
Including of the body with the bezel removed?

As you requested Al, here is a few pics of my issue.
-edit: that was a miserable and failed attempt to link a pic, i don't think I will be trying that again any time soon. but anyways, i did try. the gap is kind of like the bezel just won't screw down all the way.

Lets try this

Question 1:
Is the PocketClip preventing the bezel from being fully tightened?
Resolution:
Ensure the PocketClip is fully seated in its slot by removing the bezel and o-ring and using a hard flat edge to push the PocketClip deeper into the slot.
If it can not be seated deeper you could remove the clip and see whether it can be carefully bent to allow the bezel to be fully tightened.

Question 2:
It would be useful to see a photo of the PocketClip side of the E2e - both with the bezel on, and with it removed please.

Sorry it took a few years to get around to this everyone. I honestly never thought I'd see this light again after loaning it to a "friend." After recieveing the light back, it still has the same issue. (But I did fix the fogging bezel issue after reading a lot of posts on the issue.)

The bezel doesn't screw down all the way if there is a lamp assembly installed. There isn't any way the bezel could be contacting the clip or the little clip retainer plastic thingy..they're both flush against the body. I've determined it's the lamp assembly itself which prevents the bezel from screwing down. This is what it looks like with the MN03 MN02 or HO-E2A installed.


Here's what it looks like with no lamp assembly installed. Perfectly flush.


To be exact, the lamp assemblies prevent the bezel from tightening down approximately 1/3 of a turn from full flush. At 1/3 of a turn from flush, the bezel is tightened as tight as I can possibly get it.

Is it normal for the bezel to be out this far after tighteneing it down? If so I'll forget about it, otherwise I would like to "user fix" it before my trip to Vietnam next month.

Didn't mean to write a book, but I'm excited to have the light back, happy to be back on CPF.

Batman

batman said:

The bezel doesn't screw down all the way if there is a lamp assembly installed.
To be exact, the lamp assemblies prevent the bezel from tightening down approximately 1/3 of a turn from full flush. At 1/3 of a turn from flush, the bezel is tightened as tight as I can possibly get it.
Is it normal for the bezel to be out this far after tighteneing it down?
Batman

Click to expand...

I have been producing several run of aftermarket E bodies for CPF members so I have some experience.
Lamp assembly must be sandwitched between head and body lip for good negative contact. Even a very tiny gap between lamp assembly and body lip will end up nonfunctional problem.
So, a tiny gap between head and body neck is absolutely necessary when lamp assembly is in there even if this gap is few thousandth. Tolerance is tight and maybe 1/3 turn is the highest side of that tolerance.
You can try carefully sand (grind) lip of body to reduce this gap but keep in mind, a tiny gap must be there.

Interesting. Do you think heavy duty sandpaper do the job on the lip?