Nitecore EX10 Water-resistance and other issues + solutions

meuge

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Jul 13, 2007
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Let me preface by saying that I really like my EX10. Conceptually it's my favorite light. In terms of build quality, it's my favorite light.

However, it came with a host of (resolvable) problems.

1. Operation of the switch.

The switch was stiff, hard to press, and the return was so slow as to make double-tapping VERY difficult, and impossible after storing the light for awhile. Cleaning the o-ring (clear) and replacing the lubrication with a teflon-based lube did not help nearly as much as I thought it would.

1.1 The solution to this problem was in the box all along. The EX10 came with 2 spare O-rings, one red, and one clear. Now the O-ring that was on the PD cylinder was also clear, but when examined next to the red O-ring, the one that was installed by default was MUCH thicker (1.5X at least). Replacing the clear o-ring with the red one and using some teflon-based lubricant resolved the issue beautifully.

2. Water-resistance.

I tested EX10s water resistance by dunking it into a pot of water, and using the switch 1-2 times under water. The light did function without a problem. But a few minutes after it was retrieved from the water, a thick fog covered the lens, and it was clear that water had gotten inside. The battery chamber was dry, so it was clear that the problem lie with the emitter compartment.

I disassembled the light, to find out that the reason for the water getting in was inherent in the design. In most lights, the reflector rests on an o-ring against the lip of the casing, with the reflector screwed behind it, squeezing the o-ring between the lens and the lip of the casing, and thus providing an excellent seal.

In the EX10, the O-ring is instead positioned between the reflector and the glass, resting partially in the threading, with no lip to rest against. In essence, the water is free to flow AROUND the seal at any time when the pressure changes (such as when using the switch).

In the subsequent editions of the EX10, I would highly recommend that the Nitecore design team take care of this engineering flaw, because even with my haphazard solution (below) implemented, the problem is greatly lessened, but it's clear the light would not withstand any real submersion.

2.1 For me, the solution was to lube the o-ring with thick silicone-based grease... use forceps to carefully position it into the groove of the threading, and then take great care not to dislodge it when screwing the cap down. I also added some vaccuum grease between the bezel ring and the glass (there should be a flat rubber gasket between those two, by the way!), and used the clear o-ring that I had taken off the PD cylinder between the outside of the steel bezel ring. When the bezel was fully screwed on, this o-ring provides a very decent seal to further help avoid water getting into the head of the light.

After these modifications, the light successfully withstood immersion and operation in 10cm of water... but it is unlikely to take anything more than that.

In conclusion, I'd like to thank David and the Nitecore team for a wonderful light. Despite its shortcomings it's become my EDC, and I am anxious to see the problems corrected, at which point I will purchase the new version and pass my EX10 to someone else.
 
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Kilovolt

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Thanks for your comments. :)

Re. 1. In my EX10 like in others whose pics appeared here the clear 0-ring is on the head and the red one on the piston. Possibly yours suffered from an assembly mistake.

Re. 2. When you say you disassembled the light you apparently mean you opened also the head to reach the o-ring: is this operation difficult?

Thanks. :)
 

meuge

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Jul 13, 2007
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Thanks for your comments. :)

Re. 1. In my EX10 like in others whose pics appeared here the clear 0-ring is on the head and the red one on the piston. Possibly yours suffered from an assembly mistake.
Sorry, I actually made a mistake with the write-up. I did have the clear o-ring on the cylinder, and did replace it with the red one.

I corrected the mistake in the original post. Thanks.

Re. 2. When you say you disassembled the light you apparently mean you opened also the head to reach the o-ring: is this operation difficult?
Not at all. Just requires dry hands and a little bit of force. Grip the steel bezel ring and twist counter-clockwise. It will twist off and the lens and reflector assembly, as well as the light engine can come out.
 
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carrot

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How strange. I submersed my EX10 8 feet underwater and clicked the piston over 25 times without any water leakage whatsoever. Just my experience.
 

LED-holic

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In another post a user had a similar problem with water getting into the head of the emitter.

4sevens offered to replace the defective light. You should contact 4sevens to make similar arrangements if your work-arounds do not resolve the issues. The EX10 and D10 should be water resistant and any water getting into the head is not acceptable.

Good luck.
 

Crenshaw

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could more people chime in? im about to get this light.....is the water resistance really a problem?

Crenshaw
 

LED-holic

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could more people chime in? im about to get this light.....is the water resistance really a problem?

Crenshaw
No issues with my 3 D10s. I've run mine in the sink and clicked a dozen times and no issues.

But as with any metal clickies, they're bound to be less water resistant than rubber clickies.

I have the same concern with the LF5XT but I have not dunked my LF5XT in water because I've decided I'm not going to keep it.

I personally will never be in a water environment and have to operate my lights under immersion. But if you foresee yourself operating lights around water a lot, then this would be a far more important criteria an most people.

The only scenario where I can see my light getting wet is being caught out in a heavy thunderstorm. Even then, I doubt any of my lights will have problems handling the downpour of water. If I was going to be diving with my lights, I'd get a diving light.

Do you forsee yourself using the light near water much?

Also, with 4seven's lifetime warranty, in the extremely unlikely event my light fails due to water immersion, I have confidence that 4sevens would cover me. So if you have any doubt, I say go for it. But if you truly need a diving light, get a dive-rated light and not any of the metal clicky lights.
 
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Crenshaw

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No issues with my 3 D10s. I've run mine in the sink and clicked a dozen times and no issues.

But as with any metal clickies, they're bound to be less water resistant than rubber clickies.

I have the same concern with the LF5XT but I have not dunked my LF5XT in water because I've decided I'm not going to keep it.

I personally will never be in a water environment and have to operate my lights under immersion. But if you foresee yourself operating lights around water a lot, then this would be a far more important criteria an most people.

The only scenario where I can see my light getting wet is being caught out in a heavy thunderstorm. Even then, I doubt any of my lights will have problems handling the downpour of water. If I was going to be diving with my lights, I'd get a diving light.

Do you forsee yourself using the light near water much?

Also, with 4seven's lifetime warranty, in the extremely unlikely event my light fails due to water immersion, I have confidence that 4sevens would cover me. So if you have any doubt, I say go for it. But if you truly need a diving light, get a dive-rated light and not any of the metal clicky lights.
Thanks...

i too will very unlikley ever need to submerge my light, but i would feel more comfortable knowing that it would survive a dip in the swimming pool for a spot of night time swimming.so far i know my ML1 and Tiablo and the NDI that i sold can do that...

Crenshaw
 

LED-holic

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Thanks...

i too will very unlikley ever need to submerge my light, but i would feel more comfortable knowing that it would survive a dip in the swimming pool for a spot of night time swimming.so far i know my ML1 and Tiablo and the NDI that i sold can do that...

Crenshaw
I used my D10 around the pool for over 20 hours poolside this past weekend without any fear of it dying if I dropped it in the pool. In fact I held it in my hand as I sat in the hot jacquizzi to play with it.

Have no fear. If the worst happens, 4sevens will cover you.

Also, there have been a few posts of people running their EX10 / D10 through the wash and dryer, no worse for the wear. That's bound to happen and it's nice to know these lights will survive with a load of laundry... :crackup:
 

Crenshaw

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I used my D10 around the pool for over 20 hours poolside this past weekend without any fear of it dying if I dropped it in the pool. In fact I held it in my hand as I sat in the hot jacquizzi to play with it.

Have no fear. If the worst happens, 4sevens will cover you.

Also, there have been a few posts of people running their EX10 / D10 through the wash and dryer, no worse for the wear. That's bound to happen and it's nice to know these lights will survive with a load of laundry... :crackup:

Yup, its good to know that good ol' 4sevens has got my back. Now i just need my influx of cash, or for my A9 to sell...:ohgeez:

Crenshaw
 

zipplet

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How does the D10 fare with regards to water resistance? I don't want to ruin mine by testing. If the light becomes an EDC light I need it to be able to survive a thunderstorm outdoors because quite often I am out and about at night even if it's raining.

Thanks.
 

orcinus

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But a few minutes after it was retrieved from the water, a thick fog covered the lens, and it was clear that water had gotten inside. The battery chamber was dry, so it was clear that the problem lie with the emitter compartment.


That's condensation, not a problem with water proofing.

Especially if you've only noticed it on the glass, if it looked like fog and if it appeared a few minutes after you pulled the light out of the water.
 

brucec

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Jun 23, 2008
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That's condensation, not a problem with water proofing.

Especially if you've only noticed it on the glass, if it looked like fog and if it appeared a few minutes after you pulled the light out of the water.

I agree with Meuge, this is not a condensation problem. There is no seal running along the inner wall of the head assembly. The only possible seal would be if the o-ring between the lens and reflector also fit snugly in the threads. While any particular light may be OK, this does not seem like it would be reliable from light to light or even between subsequent disassembly/reassembly. I think perhaps coating a good portion of the reflector barrel (on the outside) with vacuum grease may be the best solution. It wouldn't make it a dive light, but better than nothing.
 

brucec

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I used my D10 around the pool for over 20 hours poolside this past weekend without any fear of it dying if I dropped it in the pool. In fact I held it in my hand as I sat in the hot jacquizzi to play with it.

LED-holic, while there may be many interesting things to light up underwater in a jacquizzi :huh:, most people would find that sort of thing offensive.:tsk:


Good idea, though!
 
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