AA flashlight for friend headed to Afghanistan
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There are two problems with Fenix AA lights that would make them less desirable in the field:
1. They are not grippy (the smooth anodized coat sans the checkering will be hard to hold onto).
2. They do not have an actual low level. (15lm is not that low).
So while I LOVE my Fenix L2DR100, and my P2D/warm white P4 (writeup coming soon), I don't know if they are field lights.
You could get your friend a Nitecore DI or D10. These lights are simple to operate, very grippy, and have a real low low.
Splunk_Au
Enlightened
From my experience, DO NOT get the the D10. With the environmental conditions in Afghan, the switching mechanism will not last a week. It will get stuck due to the evaporation of lubricant and soft spring tension, or sometimes get stuck in the brightness ramping mode. While the piston drive may work well in theory, sorry to say it doesn't work well in ROUGH OUTDOOR usage where the environment conditions are not as ideal such as indoor and urban areas. (I know I'm gonna get some flak from this, but this is my experience and stand fully by it. If yours work well then that's good.)
The DI should be ok, but for durabiity a dependability you might also want to look into a twisty light.
My suggestion would be the Fenix L1D.
The DI should be ok, but for durabiity a dependability you might also want to look into a twisty light.
My suggestion would be the Fenix L1D.
LED-holic
Flashlight Enthusiast
This is why one should never judge upon a single user's post or "experience".
My D10s (yes I have 3 of them) work flawlessly, are way more silent than any plastic "clicky" lights, and very durable for EDC carry, even in extreme hot / humid environments. I would not hesitate to trust them in any environment.
PS - I've PM'd you to ask about where you experienced your "hot and dry" climate with your D10, since it's currently winter in Australia right now. Awaiting your response...
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Pistolero
Enlightened
An Olight T10/T15 maybe? (or the T20/T25)
Or the combo that has both tubes so he can use 123s or AAs.
Or the Lumapower LM31/LM33? More economical and still gets the job done. Very simple interface too.
My bro (82nd ABN, Iraq theater) said that in his supply group, they had plenty of surefire 123 batts. Although, alternatively, you could also send him with a pack of good rechargeable AAs?
Or the combo that has both tubes so he can use 123s or AAs.
Or the Lumapower LM31/LM33? More economical and still gets the job done. Very simple interface too.
My bro (82nd ABN, Iraq theater) said that in his supply group, they had plenty of surefire 123 batts. Although, alternatively, you could also send him with a pack of good rechargeable AAs?
Splunk_Au
Enlightened
Sorry, but why do you assume it was from a single experience? Btw the Afghan air is hot and dry which is worse for the librication which is key for the effective functioning of the piston drive.
Btw I got a suggestion for a twisty too, look into the Fenix P1 could be good. It shouldn't be difficult for him to get CR123 batteries from his QM department.
Btw I got a suggestion for a twisty too, look into the Fenix P1 could be good. It shouldn't be difficult for him to get CR123 batteries from his QM department.
alex in germany
Newly Enlightened
Hi,
i would send a Fenix L1T V2.0, simple two stage light. There have been some issues with the D10, and i dont know if they are solved.
Alex
i would send a Fenix L1T V2.0, simple two stage light. There have been some issues with the D10, and i dont know if they are solved.
Alex
LED-holic
Flashlight Enthusiast
I travel all over the US for work. I spend quite a bit of time in Arizona, which has very hot temperatures this time of the year. I've left my D10 in the car, as well as using it outside, with temperatures exceeding 120 degrees, and no negative effects so far. :shrug:
By the way, July in Arizona for extreme heat is like January in the Arctic for the extreme cold. Isn't it winter in Australia right now? According to weather.com, it's about 55 - 60 degrees F there right now (in Melbourne), so I'm curious how your experience with the D10 in hot and dry weather came about (since it only was introduced a few weeks ago). Are you deployed in Iraq or Afghanistan right now? :thinking:
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youreacrab
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2008
- Messages
- 321
I'd recommend an Olight--they are similar to the fenix but much easier to grip and have better capabilities to throw light a great distance. The tints on the Olights are fantastic neutral white too.
Olight T15 is the 1xAA model.
Olight T25-Tactical is a fantastic 2xAAlight--easily my brightest with amazing throw. I would go for the 2xAA format for a real outdoors user. 1xAA is great for backup.
Olight T15 is the 1xAA model.
Olight T25-Tactical is a fantastic 2xAAlight--easily my brightest with amazing throw. I would go for the 2xAA format for a real outdoors user. 1xAA is great for backup.
Fenix L2D and L1D body. If it's too slippery add O-rings or wrap in tape.
If a "very low" low is important the D-10 CAN be used as a twisty. Any light with a tailcap lockout like the Fenix Lxx series can be clicked on and then use the tailcap as a twisty switch.
If a "very low" low is important the D-10 CAN be used as a twisty. Any light with a tailcap lockout like the Fenix Lxx series can be clicked on and then use the tailcap as a twisty switch.
gorn
Enlightened
You're buddy won't have any problem finding AA or CR123's in Afghanistan. My Son spent 14 months in Iraq. I sent him several lights. The one that worked the best for him was a huntlight with AA and CR123 bodies. I forget which model it is. It survived everything he put it through including long dunkings in canals.
He also had a Typhoon. He loved the interface but it didn't survive the canals.
He also had a Typhoon. He loved the interface but it didn't survive the canals.
Is this an issue with the kinds of oils you'd find on a light? I thought the only thing that was liable to happen was that it would get too grimy to lubricate well.
alibaba
Enlightened
I'd definitely go with the Fenix L2T v2.0:
https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=335
Simple two-level light with a bright high and a long running low that is still bright enough for many uses comined with a forward tactical clicky. Wrap some grip tape around the body and maybe include a red filter and he should be good to go!
https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=335
Simple two-level light with a bright high and a long running low that is still bright enough for many uses comined with a forward tactical clicky. Wrap some grip tape around the body and maybe include a red filter and he should be good to go!
Marduke
Flashaholic
Is the ability to use red a requirement, as it is for many troops?
For a small 1xAA light, I also highly recommend the Photon Proton Pro. It has both white and red built in. White on high is around 80-100 lumens (I don't remember, but it's pretty bright), but on low it's very low, and will run around 250 hours. On red, you can ramp from very very dim with over 500 hours of runtime, to a rather bright red. It's fully adjustable to any level in between on both red and white.
For a small 1xAA light, I also highly recommend the Photon Proton Pro. It has both white and red built in. White on high is around 80-100 lumens (I don't remember, but it's pretty bright), but on low it's very low, and will run around 250 hours. On red, you can ramp from very very dim with over 500 hours of runtime, to a rather bright red. It's fully adjustable to any level in between on both red and white.
Was probably the Huntlight FT02XJ... 1xCR123 or 2xAA.
I guess the upshot of this thread is that there is no perfect light. Frankly I would think any of the better Chinese branded lights would be fine, especially if they use double o-ring seals and you can get a spare switch.
LED-holic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Most lubricants should operate well into the higher temperatures. The thin Nyogel 760G for example is rated for -40°C to 135°C (-40 F to 275 F) temperature ranges. Thicker lubricants should have even higher temperature thresholds.
I'm finding the idea of lubricants evaporating into the air to be pretty far fetched, unless you're using WD-40, which is designed to evaporate.
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WadeF
Flashlight Enthusiast
Also how likely would it be for the light to reach 135F+ if one would normally carry it in a pocket, in a bag, etc? I wouldn't normally leave my EDC laying out in the open to bake in the mid day sun. It would come out once it's dark, when the temps would be much cooler.
Looks like we have another troll.
LED-holic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yup, it's 135 C, which equates to 275 F. I think my skin would be burned to a crisp holding a light that hot..
Agree with your other comment as well, but awaiting a reply before I make final judgement.
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