How to maximize freezer efficiency?

greenlight

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 18, 2004
Messages
4,298
Location
chill valley
My freezer isn't usually full of food, so I like to keep it full of frozen water bottles to maximize its efficiency. I don't know if I am achieving the desired results, though. I have started to replace the ice with empty bottles filled with air to see if this makes a difference.

Am I making any difference in how my freezer runs? Is there a preferred method for filling a freezer?

(As an aside, I have an ice maker that works fine until it's full, then it overflows into a pool of ice. I have to monitor it and turn it off when it's full, and back on again when it's empty.)
 

LukeA

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
4,399
Location
near Pittsburgh
Less volume of air to replace with every open-close cycle will put less load on the compressor, so the air-filled bottles will help. Ice in the bottles will help keep your food safe longer if the power goes out.

It sounds like your icemaker has a malfunctioning limit switch.
 
Last edited:

oronocova

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 17, 2007
Messages
284
Location
VA
Hello,

I was not familiar with what you are talking about so I did a google search... seems like most people call it "freezer blocking." Makes sense I guess... try to fill up the airspace in your freezer so it doesn't have to cool that space. Seems like an insulated filler would be a better idea than water but I'm no expert (I just saw a couple search results recommending boxes filled with insulation.

Thanks for bringing this up though as I am about to bring a small chest freezer online pretty soon. I might try this out... saving energy is always good.

My ice maker does this also. It has an arm that I believe the level of ice is supposed to trigger and turn the ice maker off or keep it at a certain level. It works because it doesn't actually continue making ice to an absurd amount, but it seems like the cut-off point is out of adjustment. I've never disected it to try to adjust it, if it can even be adjusted. I, like you, just turn it off when it is full. For the two of us a full bin will last probably 2 weeks or more. I guess if nothing else that keeps the "old" ice culled out.

-Jon
 

Lynx_Arc

Flashaholic
Joined
Oct 1, 2004
Messages
11,212
Location
Tulsa,OK
It takes less effort to cool space that is small than it does to pull moisture ouf of extra air. If you have an auto defrost freezer it constantly cycles to melt built up ice and some of the water evaporates into the air which has to be dehumidified in order for the temp to be returned down to freezing otherwize it would freeze on stuff like frost.
as for the icemaker it sounds like the cutoff switch isn't working right. On mine the arm that comes down to check the ice level is connected to a microswitch. It may be the arm is stopping the cycling of the fingers that empty the hardened ice from the tray and since there is ice left in there still there is no room for the water to go.
 

Brock

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 6, 2000
Messages
6,346
Location
Green Bay, WI USA
If you leave the freezer door closed it won't matter how much it runs over a given amount of time. If you open the door and the space is packed maybe 1/3 of the air might fall out on to the floor and then you would have to cool that 1/3 volume of air back down. If your freezer is empty and you open the door, 3/4 of the air might fall out and you would have to cool that much more air back down to temp.

An empty freezer will run more often but for less time each cycle. A full freezer will run less often but for a longer period of time. The total run time should be about the same. A full freezer should be a bit more efficient because the compressor running longer should be a bit more efficient rather than starting and stopping.

As LukeA said, if's is full it will stay cooler a lot longer if the power goes out and you would have a safe supply of cold drinking water. I think it was Dave but someone clued me in on keeping frozen bottles of water in the freezer and if the power goes out move a bunch to the fridge to keep it cool longer.

Bottom line; try to keep the door openings to a minimum to save power, fridge or freezer.
 

BB

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 17, 2003
Messages
2,129
Location
SF Bay Area
If you are in the US/North America, get a Kill-A-Watt meter... They are down to $20 now for the non-battery-backed version.

And keep your freezer at zero degrees F--not much reason to go lower--And if it gets much above 0F, the food will age quicker.

From a post I made a couple years ago on a solar forum, I found the extract of an old paper that talked about ideal freezer conditions (from 1945)... The link to the extract is no longer good--but I pulled the relevant information and will repost here:

Frozen pork roasts, strawberries, snap beans, and peas were stored for 12 months at 0" F., at 10" F., and in a freezer alternately fluctuating between 0" and 20" F. in a repeating, 6-day cycle. Palatability tests, vitamin analyses, and determinations of other criteria of food quality were made periodically.

Fat rancidity was evident after 4 months at temperatures above zero, but did not occur during 1 year at 0 " F. Ascorbic acid losses during storage at 10" F. or at fluctuating temperatures ranged from half of the total in peas to two thirds of that present in strawberries and four fifths of that in snap beans.

At 0' F., all of this vitamin was retained in the peas, and only one third was lost from the other products during a 1-year storage period. Palatability changes in general paralleled these chemical changes. The thiamine content of pork was not affected by the storage temperatures or storage period. Exposure of frozen food used in this study to temperatures fluctuating between 0" and 20" F. resulted in quality changes similar to those occurring in food stored at 10" F.

The quality of the food stored under both of these conditions was definitely inferior to that stored at 0" F. This suggests that exposure of frozen foods to temperatures above 0" F. rather than merely temperature fluctuation may be a major factor influencing deterioration of food quality.
...
Work at Purdue (9) indicated that temperature fluctuation over the range -5" to -15" F. was not deleterious to frozen pork. Workers at Minnesota (4) stated that for frozen fruits and vegetables, constant storage temperature is not important if the storage temperature is 5" F. or less. In their study, the temperature fluctuated from 0 " $0 -20" F. with no impairment in food quality in a 6-month period.

DuBois and Colvin ( 8 ) studied ascorbic acid in frozen peaches subjected to smell temperature fluctuation three or four times daily, and reported that, as a result of fluctuating temperatures between 5" and -5" F., 50% of the originally added ascorbic acid was lost in 1 year, whereas like packs stored at a relatively constant temperature of 0" F. lost but 32% of the vitamin C during storage. Their data, however, dispute the significance of this statement.

If undesirable effects from varying temperatures are to be expected, they will be found in the freezing range above 0" F., the usually recommended storage temperature. Furthermore, this is the range most likely to be encountered in freezer cabinets or lockers subject to temperature fluctuation. No data are at hand, to evaluate the effects on frozen food of temperature variations in the range of 0 " to 20 ' F.

-Bill
 

greenlight

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 18, 2004
Messages
4,298
Location
chill valley
I was hoping that the freezer full of frozen water bottles wasn't freaking out and trying to defrost them the whole time. How does the defroster differentiate between frost and ice? Is that why the bottom of the ice receptacle always has deformed ice conglomerates?
 

Lynx_Arc

Flashaholic
Joined
Oct 1, 2004
Messages
11,212
Location
Tulsa,OK
I think the defroster is on a cycle or timer and has a heating element that comes on long enough to melt ice off the panel where the cooling coils are at which melts and also evaporates at the same time. The evaporated part will condense on colder areas as ice or frost either before or during the freezer dropping the temp down. you would have to have the ice literally up against the panel where the defroster was to melt it enough to matter usually it doesn't thaw things out but runs long enough only to defrost the coil areas.... so you dont have to chip ice off once every 4-6 months.
I am guessing the ice on the bottom is water condensing when the air temp is dropped again.. freezing it there like frost on a cold mug just out of the freezer on a warm muggy day
 

ConfederateScott

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 27, 2004
Messages
249
Location
Magnolia, Mississippi
After hurricane Katrina we were without electricity for two weeks. I along with hundreds of others sat in lines over two miles long waiting to drive through the fairgrounds and be handed two bags of ice from the national guard. They flew ice in on Chinook (spel?) helicopters. All the while my freezer sat there half full of slowly spoiling food. Since then I have every square inch of free freezer space filled with bottles of water from two liters down to bottled water sizes. Now FEMA has decided that ice is not a neccesity and will no longer be supplied by the agency to victims after disasters. Having lived through Katrina I know first hand that ice is such a precious commodity in times of emergency that I have a second freezer now that I keep filled with nothing but frozen two liter bottles of water. I ain't sure about the efficiency of keeping the ice, but I know the importance of having it in case of long power outages. It was almost a hundred degrees in the weeks following the hurricane and without electricity to run even a fan, much less air conditioning, a glass of Gatorade with ice was a life saver. My advice is to keep as much ice as you can. I believe that in itself is maximizing freezer efficiency.
 
Last edited:

Diesel_Bomber

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Messages
1,772
Open the door, cold air spills out and is replaced by warm air. The more space taken up by stuff = the less cold air that spills out. I don't see how keeping cold air from spilling out could do anything but increase efficiency.

My wife and I have been filling our extra freezer space with ice precisely for power outage reasons for years.

:buddies:
 

BB

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 17, 2003
Messages
2,129
Location
SF Bay Area
Might also want to look at a smallish Honda eu2000i (1,600 watt) generator... Very fuel efficient even down to 1/4 rated power (400 watts).

I can run my fridge/freezer/few lights/radio on probably 1-2 gallons of gasoline per day... (1,600 watts for 4 hours on 1.1 gallons of fuel; 400 watts for 15 hours on 1.1 gallons of fuel). The standard "cheap" 5kW generator will use several times that amount of fuel per day--even if lightly loaded.

I store ~20 gallons of fuel for earthquake preparedness (can fill-up three days before the "big one"). Use fuel preservative and dump it into the car once a year and refill (might also end up being a good investment--last fillup was under $3 per gallon). Also keep a siphon use fuel for the car too...

If you need a larger generator (such as for a well)--then get one of those $300 5kW guys and just run it 5-10 minutes per day. You can also connect two eu2000i generators together for 2x power--such as for running a window A/C unit.

Don't get too large of generator for your application--they will just such fuel like nobody's business if run under 75% load (use almost as much fuel as if running fully loaded).

-Bill
 

bitslammer

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Messages
637
Location
Cincinnati, OH USA
Wow. I've always pondered this as well. Fortunately my best bud from high school has Ph D. in ultra low temp physics. He said about what everyone else is saying. Not a big difference but makes sense that filling with something may be a small but more efficient.

I've also argued the ice and ice pack strategy is smart. Since I shop at Costco and buy in bulk I always carry a cooler bag in the car. When I grocery shop it's usually during lunch hour as it's less crowded and save me time in the evening so I can go home and get right to cooking dinner. Even when it's 99*F here my stuff stays cool in the car with the cooler bag and ice packs. Nice thing is I've even learned how to stack so that frozen things are mostly thawed if needed when I get home.

I do the same for coolers on camping trip. sporting events etc. In addition to the ice packs I always stick a medium sized towel in and fill empty space with plastic grocery bags for insulation. After being out in the heat for hours that super cold towel feels great around the neck and I always have spare trach bags in the cooler if needed.
 

BB

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 17, 2003
Messages
2,129
Location
SF Bay Area
Not really... Your heat "gain" comes through the insulation of your freezer (and door opening, lights, auto-defroster, ice making, adding new food to freeze).

So, other than the initial power required to first freeze the water--your freezer will not use any more power if the frozen water is in there or not... You can argue that if 1/2 your freezer is filled with frozen water that has no use for you--then getting a smaller freezer would help.

One problem with smaller freezers (and fridges) is that the volume goes up with the cube of the size, and the surface area goes up with the square... So while a larger freezer consumes more power (larger surface area), the actual power to keep the food cold per unit volume, typically costs less in a larger freezer vs a smaller freezer because the larger freezers are typically more efficient.

You can also choose to get a manual defrost model... For the same volume, a the auto defroster seems to cost you about 2x as much electricity as the manual defrost... (my manual defrost runs around 330 kWhrs per year, my in-laws' auto defrost is over 700 kWhrs per year for roughly the same size freezers).

Is is worth $35 per year to avoid manual defrosting once or twice per year? --Difficult to say.

-Bill
 

Mike Painter

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 16, 2002
Messages
1,863
This won't help much in a flood situation but keeping ice a long time (most or all of a hot summer) without power is not that hard. Keep the blocks as large as possible, dig a hole in your basement and cover it, no bury it in sawdust. It might be worthwhile if you consoder this to experiment with plastic foam, lots of it.
 
Top