Argh-h-h-h! ... TOO bright!

Al

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Recently got my E20 for work use (electrician). Always used my Streamlight Jr. LED for dimly lit areas when I've got to work in a j-box or do some hand-tracing or for peering into the innards of industrial service equipment. Can't use this thing as a replacement .. it's TOO bright, leaving my 62 yr.old eyes seeing stars later. It will see service strapped to the bars of my mountain bike.
 

TONY M

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Boy flashlight technology has come a long way...!

It is suitable for a MTB light at least which is good.
 

Al

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have you tried adding some sort of diffuser? :thinking:

Tanksferdathot, but purpose of starting this thread was to demonstrate that brighter isn't always better. Lotta time spent trying discussing or trying to find the brightest light. Maybe someone (not me) might start categorizing lights according to suggested use.
 

LED-holic

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It's true brighter isn't always better.

That's why it's great to have lights that are versatile and can provide just the right amount of light as needed.

This is why my NiteCore D10 is such an awesome light. The easy ramping to the perfect level, along with quick access to a super bright or super dim output makes it perfect for use in almost all situations.
 

ruger357

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It's true brighter isn't always better.

That's why it's great to have lights that are versatile and can provide just the right amount of light as needed.

This is why my NiteCore D10 is such an awesome light. The easy ramping to the perfect level, along with quick access to a super bright or super dim output makes it perfect for use in almost all situations.

Agreed, the Nitecore EX10 will also give the same performance if you like to use CR123's.
 

metlarules

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For me it's 1)Build Quality 2)Beam shape 3) runtime 4)Brightness 5)Value
 

shomie911

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I think manufacturer's need to start lengthening runtime instead of making the lights brighter.

Take the Novatac 120P, 120 lumens is more than enough for anything I'd expect a pocket flashlight to do, but a 30 minute runtime is not. Instead of making another flashlight with 300 lumens and a 10 minute runtime, how about they make a flashlight with 120 lumens and...let's say a 4 hour runtime.

But either way, turning the brightness down equals a huge jump in runtime with the 120P, but I still think flashlights need a more balanced runtime/output ratio.
 

JJV

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I think manufacturer's need to start lengthening runtime instead of making the lights brighter.

Take the Novatac 120P, 120 lumens is more than enough for anything I'd expect a pocket flashlight to do, but a 30 minute runtime is not. Instead of making another flashlight with 300 lumens and a 10 minute runtime, how about they make a flashlight with 120 lumens and...let's say a 4 hour runtime.

But either way, turning the brightness down equals a huge jump in runtime with the 120P, but I still think flashlights need a more balanced runtime/output ratio.

Agreed! When I first started dabbling in this little world all I wanted was a really bright, really small flashlight. Now I find that I use the super bright ones infrequently, and I much prefer to use a light suited to the task at hand. I agree with LED-holic-the D10 may not be the "best" light I own, but it's the one I use the most.
 

alphazeta

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Tanksferdathot, but purpose of starting this thread was to demonstrate that brighter isn't always better. Lotta time spent trying discussing or trying to find the brightest light. Maybe someone (not me) might start categorizing lights according to suggested use.


Not that you were asking for suggestions but, for an electrician -> I think a zebralight would be the perfect pickup. For any type of hands-on/closeup work, I would always go with some type of headlamp.
-AZ
 

shomie911

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Agreed! When I first started dabbling in this little world all I wanted was a really bright, really small flashlight. Now I find that I use the super bright ones infrequently, and I much prefer to use a light suited to the task at hand. I agree with LED-holic-the D10 may not be the "best" light I own, but it's the one I use the most.

My most used light is the 120P at 2.7 lumens, occasionally clicking up to 30 lumens, and in that capacity it gets great runtime, I use rechargeables and it's been a long while since I replaced the battery. The ability to program the light for the amount of light you need is an incredibly important and useful feature.

I bought a Fenix E01, Arc-AAA, KD Buckle Tough Q5 AAA V5, and Streamlight Microstream, all of which are on their way as I speak. I'm thinking the ridiculous runtime of the E01 will suit me well.

But then I saw the Valiant Concepts Arc-AA body and it gets 84 hours (EDIT: 84 hours of useable light, 14 hours to 50%) off a single alkaline AA with the Arc-AAA head, so I'm thinking with a L91 lithium I wouldn't have to worry about the battery for a year atleast.

That's my kind of runtime. :laughing:
 
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sol-leks

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Well, anything you could want pretty much is out there, you just need to know what you're buying and consider what you need it for. With the E20 for example, Fenix could've made it even brighter. Also look at the new tk20; I think it has a fairly restrained low mode, same goes for most of their tactical lights. Same can be said for the surefires. However, when you are buying a single mode light you can really only expect so much from it. You just have to know what you need and what you are getting. That's also why most ppl here have a single mode light, but it's not their edc.
 

Confederate

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Again, this seems to be a job for the L2D. By cranking the head to the right, the first power setting is LOW, with an impressive runtime. Yesterday I got three diffusers for my Fenix lights and they far exceeded my expectations. The light was beautiful on low.

A Fenix E01 also puts out a pleasing glow, is light and runs like the ****ens. A few years ago I bought a Brinkman Rebel 4-LED flashlight at Target. It came with two filters (red and blue) and two "D" batteries. I use it almost every night and have never replaced the orignial batteries. Most of the time, I run only two LEDs and it is fading a bit, but it still gets me around the house, even with the red filter.

So you're quite correct. Brightness is great when you need it. Fenix wisely designed their lights to give just what is needed.
 

MWClint

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i had this same "too bright" problem and resolved it yesterday. spent a good month trying to find a single stage real dim low cree or ssc p4 light. for my needs it had to be about a 10th of the EX10 on low.

wound up modifying a peak pacific with a resistor.. posted a thread and beamshots in the peak forum below.
 

MWClint

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That is one of the reasons for multi levels lights, at low your got the runtime at high the lumens.

problem is fenix doesnt make the low...low enough. 10 lumens on the l2d/l1d/p2d/L0D is still pretty bright. It's good for around the house, but try reading on 10 lumens. you go blind. The new nitecores at 5-6 is an improvement, but even those could have afforded to go lower.

novatac 120p has it right. a real low and a nice bright high.

thinking about modding a high vf p4 into a L0D. that might pull the low down some..the high will still be very bright.
 

shomie911

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problem is fenix doesnt make the low...low enough. 10 lumens on the l2d/l1d/p2d/L0D is still pretty bright. It's good for around the house, but try reading on 10 lumens. you go blind. The new nitecores at 5-6 is an improvement, but even those could have afforded to go lower.

novatac 120p has it right. a real low and a nice bright high.

thinking about modding a high vf p4 into a L0D. that might pull the low down some..the high will still be very bright.

I agree, 0.08 lumens is a lot of light when your eyes are dark adapted. I use mine at that level when reading in the dark, or not wanting to wake other people, and 10 days of runtime. With a click of a switch I can jump to 120.

I just look forward to the day when changing batteries and wondering how much charge is left in them becomes a monthly (or yearly) ordeal.
 
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mighty82

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problem is fenix doesnt make the low...low enough. 10 lumens on the l2d/l1d/p2d/L0D is still pretty bright. It's good for around the house, but try reading on 10 lumens. you go blind. The new nitecores at 5-6 is an improvement, but even those could have afforded to go lower.

novatac 120p has it right. a real low and a nice bright high.

thinking about modding a high vf p4 into a L0D. that might pull the low down some..the high will still be very bright.
Actually the nitecore D10/EX10 low is MUCH lower than 5-6 lumens. The specs are incorrect. It was estimated to be about 0.3 lumens. It's WAY dimmer than my fenix E0 which is supposed to be around 4-5 lumens. Side by side the D10's beam can barely be seen.
 

LED-holic

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.... for my needs it had to be about a 10th of the EX10 on low.
....
I was really scratching my head wondering why you'd need something 1/10th of the lowest low on the NiteCore EX10, until I realized you have not actually used the light.

The EX10 / D10 low output is about as low as most people would ever want. It's so low, you can look directly at the LED and not have to squint because it's too bright. It's so low, in ambient light, it's hard to tell it's even on.

Try it, you'll see why it's the light to own if you need a low light level (as well as for virtually all other needs - ie super bright, variable output, etc etc).
 
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