EX 10 Switch Problems

Search isn't working now and I couldn't locate a topic I thought existed on this.

I wiped any excess lube, but that wasn't the problem. It's way too hard to press the piston switch. I cannot access high with the two quickies/hold sequence. It goes right to low because it is not possible to press quickly enough.

What am I missing? Thank you.

Try Removing all of the lubrication, then applying ''Deoxit'' to the surface.

If you dont have any deoxit, then try applying an ultra low viscosity lubrication to the piston surface.

Please keep us updated.

Did you try removing the piston o-ring to see if that improves things? If it does, then you know that's the problem. It could be too thick.

Also,Try switching to the supplied red o-ring. It has a slightly smaller diameter

Thanks for the ideas. The red o-ring was already installed so I removed it with no change. There seems to be too much spring tension and I even flattened it somewhat.

I can only access the lowest setting and not the Max shortcut.

Is this the way all PDs work? My thumb and finger are sore.

Check the brass ring on the bottom of the light engine. Mine was a little stiff and hung up at one time, I applied a little lube and now it is smooth as butter. Good Luck!

First off, what kind of battery are you using?







Bill

Last things first. LiIon cells are only very slightly brighter than CR123s, if that's what you are wondering. Or do they create other changes? The circuit draws less current with LiIons while providing equal or better output, so regulation is, apparently, good.

The brass ring operates freely.

I discovered a SINGLE quick click - hold accesses Max. Upon retesting, the piston does operate a little easier without the red o-ring.

OK, thanks, everyone. My EX10 seems to be better now.

Looks like you figured it out, but just to confirm, it's a double click for low setting and a click-hold for max.

Right, an extra click in there would mess things up.

I think what Braddah_Bill was getting at before is that the Li-ion cells are sometimes longer than primaries and can worsen a "stiff piston" problem.

Fortunately, my LiIon cells aren't too long, jbviau .

Yes, Rocket Tomato, what works is just what you posted.

Don't the instructions indicate two clicks & hold for Max and two clicks for lowest level?

jayflash said:

Don't the instructions indicate two clicks & hold for Max and two clicks for lowest level?

Click to expand...

Actually for max it says: 'quick double-click and hold' which could be interpreted as a total of three pushes but means not to leave the button after the second click.

Just the fact that if you are using Trustfires there may be problems.


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2542820&postcount=172

jayflash said:

Last things first. LiIon cells are only very slightly brighter than CR123s, if that's what you are wondering. Or do they create other changes? The circuit draws less current with LiIons while providing equal or better output, so regulation is, apparently, good.

The brass ring operates freely.

I discovered a SINGLE quick click - hold accesses Max. Upon retesting, the piston does operate a little easier without the red o-ring.

OK, thanks, everyone. My EX10 seems to be better now.

Click to expand...

Braddah_Bill said:

Just the fact that if you are using Trustfires there may be problems.

Click to expand...

You are right.

After reading your post I tested one UltraFire 16340 and actually my EX10 has serious switching problems with it. On the contrary with AW's RCR123's both old 3.0V blue label and current 3.7V black lebel everything right.

lucky for some, every time i take my piston out and put it back in it works ok, not too hard to press but after a few minutes of not using it it feels harder, ive tried different viscosity silicone lubes but no better and i find it wierd that my EX10 came with only clear o-rings, even one installed, is this their way of trying to make it more watertight or something, and i found that the o-ring around the head squeezes out sometimes when i tighten the head back on which indicates to me that this supplied o-ring is too big also, whats going on here did they run out and just chuck in what they had lying around

Thanks for the clarification, kilovolt, the "quick" threw me off. I misinterpreted the real intent of the instructions.

Besides the various RCR cells from AW, I did take a chance on a couple "UltraFire" cells. They look the same as TrustFire, but seem to work OK. I wonder if they will hold up well?

I think it's a bit of both with the orings. Nitecore started using what they had in stock/large quantities of and then after getting feedback from customers who have used the lights in realworld conditions are now trying to find the best combination for ease of use and water resistance. Maybe this is why we are seeing a few variations in what poeple are getting for orings?

I do wish they would figure it out. My D10 gets "sticky" when it sits also no matter how much or little lube I use of any variety. I settled with Nyogel for now.

Just for your information this is the situation of my two Nitecore's as to o-rings:

EX10: head - clear; piston - red; spares - one and one; action - stiff

D10: head - clear; piston - clear; spares - two clear; action - smooth


Initially I thought that a red o-ring on the piston was the best for smoothness but then....


:thinking:

For reference, mine (D10) are all red, including the spares. And everything is smooth after relubing (with oil instead of grease, gel or spray).

After everything i've read, i seriously doubt o-ring color has any correlation with the stiffness, but who knows... :shrug: