Arc6 K2 vs. P1D vs. P3D beamshots...

Always wanted to see these three compared, but never had the chance... So, since i now have all three and they're all finally fully operational, here's a few shots:



The temperature values are for reference only, as they were picked off the RAW converter, not measured with anything calibrated. Interestingly, my first K2 was much warmer than this one, with a slight yellow/orange tint to it. The new one's colder and closer to black body (actually, shifted a slight bit to the opposite side, into green). I'm not sure why the spill looks so dim compared to P1D's and P3D's. It looks similar to the naked eye, although the Arc6 does seem a bit more throwy.

Here's a physical comparison:
(left-right: Arc6 K2, P1D Q5, P3D Q5)



I wanted to add some real-world beam shots as well, but i'm sick with the flu and tired, and it's getting pretty cold and wet outside. If anyone's interested, i'll do them some other day and probably add some more lights to the comparison as well...

Nice Shots. I've been meaning to do the same, so I'll add a few of my Arc6 K2 vs. P1D Q5

P1D Low -0EV

Arc6 low -0EV


Arc6 low vs P1D low:



Arc6 max(lvl. 7) vs. P1D Turbo -2EV:



Ceiling bounce test in my bathroom yields
P1D Turbo: 43 lux
Arc6 K2 max: 64 lux


My k2 is very warm (with hints of red) that give it a quite unique (and welcome) tint compared to the usual colder white.

Nice to see someone else join the fun!
Thanks for the shots.

Does yours also kinda ramp up at L7 over a period of a few seconds?
I don't remember noticing that before i've sent it for the emitter replacement, with the previous K2...

Also, i've noticed that it doesn't do the little tint-shuffle-dance thingy (according to Peter, that happens while it's searching for the optimum voltage/current etc.) when switching from lower levels to higher levels and back anymore. It did that a lot before.

pressing the piston from off to level 7, there is maybe a .5 second delay and from there it seems to be instant level 7.

I'll get this shuffle dance when i have the light on level 7, turn it off, and immediately go to level 1. If I wait about 3 seconds, the light just goes to level 1 and no shuffle dance

cryhavok said:

pressing the piston from off to level 7, there is maybe a .5 second delay and from there it seems to be instant level 7.

Click to expand...

No, i meant a delay until it reaches full power. Mine goes to L7 after the .5 second delay, but the output power is more like L4 or L5. Then it slowly ramps up to full output over 1-1.5 seconds and if you pay attention you can notice the tint goes from warmer to slightly colder in the process.

cryhavok said:

I'll get this shuffle dance when i have the light on level 7, turn it off, and immediately go to level 1. If I wait about 3 seconds, the light just goes to level 1 and no shuffle dance

Click to expand...

Yeah, mine used to do that before the service as well. Now it flashes at L3-L4 for a split second then goes to the regular L1. Odd.

Anyway, now we need someone with a Muyshondt and an Arc6 to do some comparison shots...

Good photos from both of you, glad to see some comparisons to the Arc.

As promised, some outdoors shots. Semi-decent ones. Well, not really... More like semi-outdoors shots. Ok, ok, they're balcony shots. Semi-decent semi-outdoors balcony shots...

Ahem. Anyways, here they are:


click for full size



click for full size


Edit: Hmm... The brightness seems to be off on the Arc6 EV0 shot in the first image. The background is too dark compared to the other two. Must've botched something in the RAW converter.

Edit2: Forgot to mention - the white balance on all pics was set to daylight (6500K).

I've just tried using the RAW converter to estimate the color temperature @L7 and @L4.
As i suspected, the L7 is colder. Like i've mentioned before, you can notice the output power slowly ramping up in about 1-1.5 seconds and the tint going cold at the same time until it stabilizes. And no, it's not the phosphor burning out, Arc6 does those little tint shuffles every now and then, and besides, the tint shift coincides exactly with the whine appearing and going out.

Anyway, L4 comes down to 6600K, while L7 is 7300K.

So it seems the lower and medium levels are pretty much spot on daylight neutral.