Lumens Factory D26 Led Module, a look inside

Received a Lumens Factory D26 Led module today.
With the outer spring installed: 0,135 inch gap between Head and body (C2 and 6P)
Without the spring: no funktion, the module is approx. 0,04 inch too short.
Not very well made.

So I decided to disassemble the module for a closer look.

The module


Metall part


Sort of paper between led and reflector


One side of the led is not soldered, contact is given if the reflector is installed


The led came off easily

Driver installed with three solder blobs

The outer diameter of the driver is smaller than the
inner diameter of the housing. The driver is too small and fixed by the solder blobs only





Not impressive...


EDIT 10-26-2008:
Review of the improved D26 Led module: Link

I think it is a nice module for $30.

My BOG module is a little brighter, but for double the cost.

Production quality aside, what about the performance of the output?

Thanks for the pics. I think I will pass on this one.:shakehead

Hmmm really makes me think twice on this one. Could you explain better how the module didnt function? Sorry if i just didnt read correctly. Did you mean that without the outer spring the inner spring would not make contact?

What a shame. I'm so glad I waited. I can get that kind of quality from DX for less than half the price. And the Cree rings aren't gone like they claim. I expected more from Lumens Factory. :shakehead They could have sold loads of these.

Mine (warm tint one) arrived yesterday and I was also disappointed with the fit and finish.

I've only tried it in a G2L so far and it fits very well with the outer spring off.

streetmaster said:

What a shame. I'm so glad I waited. I can get that kind of quality from DX for less than half the price. And the Cree rings aren't gone like they claim. I expected more from Lumens Factory. :shakehead They could have sold loads of these.

Click to expand...

Each of my DX dropins (all 20!) are much better than this, and yes, each was well under half the price of this one.

And none of my DX modules tried to fit an improperly-sized 16mm board in a 17mm retaining ring.

LukeA said:

Each of my DX dropins (all 20!) are much better than this, and yes, each was well under half the price of this one.

And none of my DX modules tried to fit an improperly-sized 16mm board in a 17mm retaining ring.

Click to expand...

I'm not saying the DX ones are bad. Just that I expected more from LF. They're supposed to be better, not worse!

streetmaster said:

I'm not saying the DX ones are bad. Just that I expected more from LF. They're supposed to be better, not worse!

Click to expand...

I didn't think you were. But the LF ones should still be better.

If you're paying $30 for a dropin, it should be equal to or better than the DX offerings!

I would like to see better close ups of the driver board front and back.

Let them know your concerns... Its a new product, so the manufacturing process is still in its infancy and clearly needs to be improved. You can prototype things to the stars and back with one-off builds and everything is grand. The minute you transition over to sustaining production, with mass-production processes/personnel... its a new ball game.

Ditto what others have said, none of my 3 DX modules have these defects. I still think they represent the entry-level as far as P60 mods go, so other manufacturers should (ideally) bench-mark the DX quality level as a minimum requirement.


**edit**
SEE POST # 38 FOR LF UPDATE...

Also, the brass pill on DX modules should not be screwed all the way into the aluminum reflector. Its intended to be adjustable, to compensate for the manufacturing tolerance variations in the 6P design. My experience with DX modules and my 6P is exactly as you describe if you tighten the pill all the way down into the relfector. I can't speak to solarforce, Cabelas and other hosts however.

just my thoughts... Thanks for sharing!!

MrGman said:

I would like to see better close ups of the driver board front and back.

Click to expand...

I don´t want to do this, sorry.
But I have added a pic showing the led, which came off easily (glued on the board?).

Energie said:

I don´t want to do this, sorry.
But I have added a pic showing the led, which came off easily (glued on the board?).

Click to expand...

I saw the LED, not too impressed. You already have the front of the driver, can you just get a closer shot?

I am looking to see the quality of the solder joints of those components that you already shown in the picture with the calipers.

I'm starting to regret buying one...shoulda got a malkoff:thumbsdow

Glad I waited.

Well mine showed up today and the only thing that comes to mind is...
(Stolen from stripe on gremlins) GIZMO CAA-CAA.

Without the spring the darn thing doesn't make contact. With the spring the bezel won't screw on. On my specimen the cree ring is almost non-existant but the fact if you shake,jar,move the light it goes out is bogus.

I am dissapointed in this as I expected so much more from lumens factory.

*edit* I am leaving my post intact to see how stupidly harsh I was. I should have contacted Mark@Lf before posting this. Mark is a great person to deal with... I know he will never allow something like this to go on... We all should have given him more credit!
On LF's behalf I already stated that there is almost no cree ring whatsoever. The beam is darn near flawless. The tint is a verry likable pure white. The hotspot is tight and optomized for throw but there is a good amount of bright spill.

Mark@LF please except my apology for jumping the gun here on CPF. Thank you for handling things in such a respectable manner.

**EDIT**
SEE POST # 38 FROM LF BEFORE CONTINUING...
At least on the DX modules its intended to NOT tighten the brass pill all the way down in order to maintain body contact with a 6P as host.

Its very counter-intuitive to loosen parts... but thats the way they are made.

It might also help to comment what light you are using as a host.

:thumbsup:

If you loosen the brass pill to stop the module from rattling, then you are messing up the focus/position of the LED. It shouldn't have to be moved at all.