Upgrading tailcap clicky on a modded DX light?

Buck91

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
1,760
Location
USA
OK, so I'm not sure if this should be posts here on in the homemade & modded section. I'll start here, but if its more appropriate perhaps the mods would be kind enought to move this for me :twothumbs

Anyhow, I picked up a DX "1-mode cree enhanced" last year and after using it for a while I upgraded to a Q5 with one of their drivers pushing a calculated (very) approx. 650-750mA to the emitter. Through in a UCL and :naughty: Very nice; especially running off a 14500 li-ion.

Anyhow, The one thing I've always worried about on this light is switch failure. In fact, I've had it mis-function a number of times. The worst it wouldn't turn on for half the night. Finally got home and it worked great. :candle:

I do have a supply of actual replacement switches, but I was wondering if anybody could recommend a more durable replacement switch assembly or even a whole new tailcap that would fit. The switch retainer ring on this always comes loose (every other battery change or so) and sometimes the spring will short out to the body side. My measured dimesions are as follows:

approx. 32tpi
17.75mm body tube thread OD
6mm of threading

And some pics...







 

kosPap

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
2,909
Location
Naoussa Greece
Buck91 we cannot help you without looking inside the tailcap....

You will take a pair of needle nose pliers 9optimum) and tweezer or even a pointed screwdriver and engag the round recesses in the aluminum ring inside the tailcap. twist gently and dissasemble the switch.

I am prety sure what you will find in there...

Now you will either have to use a replacement switch from DX or improvise....

this post of mine is overdue for an update but....

Hope It was of help on how to....
 
Last edited:

Buck91

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
1,760
Location
USA
Yeah, I shoulda done that just was lazy... Here's a snapshot.

Any ideas on increasing the durability? Thats my main objective. Functionally its great...except for when it doesn't function! :D

 

kosPap

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
2,909
Location
Naoussa Greece
damn you caught me before updating my reply with a Dx link. I did it though.

Now I have experience with this switch ina Huntlight FT-02. Never had a problem...

What kind of trouble did it gave you? bad clicking or a bad electrical contact? If the latter yuo might try soldering the spring to the metalic bottom of the switch...(pre tin both parts and be fast with the soldering iron.)

But you could buy the Dx replacements ones and try it with these...(but i bet they are the same thing). I have also bought them as a long lasting spares supply.

All the best, kostas

EDTIET TO ADD....reviewing your lattest pic, is the bottom of the switch crooked/bent or it just seems that way?
 

Buck91

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
1,760
Location
USA
Soldering teh spring is a good idea. But I think my main problem lies in the fact the retainer comes loose unexpectly at random. Would it be appropriate to lock-tite (the blue stuff) it in place, since they are non-conducting threads, or am I better off just re-applying the silicone grease?

And yes the switch base plate has deformed slightly from constant spring pressure.
 

kramer5150

Flashaholic
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
6,328
Location
Palo Alto, CA
Soldering teh spring is a good idea. But I think my main problem lies in the fact the retainer comes loose unexpectly at random. Would it be appropriate to lock-tite (the blue stuff) it in place, since they are non-conducting threads, or am I better off just re-applying the silicone grease?

And yes the switch base plate has deformed slightly from constant spring pressure.

Ive always liked that little bugger... its like a mini 6PD.

The switch pill shouldn't back out that easily. Give it a good torque-down. You could drill out the two pill-holes bigger to obtain better grip with a larger needle nose pliars. That might allow you to torque it down tighter into the cap.

I don't think loc-tite would hurt. So long as the threads do not serve as the electrical conduction path. If the body tube contacts the switch pill directly then you'll be OK.

Regarding the switch... I have a similar DX switch that had a sticky click switch mechanism that sometimes would not turn on. I used some light oil and placed several drops in it through the button-hole. It worked fine fo a month, but lately the switch has started feeling "sticky" once again. I have since retired that cap and switched back to the OEM Surefire twisty-cap.
 

Buck91

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
1,760
Location
USA
It really feels a lot better after soldering the all the switch parts together and putting some fresh grease on the threads. Winter is coming with its long nights, so no doubt it'll be seeing more use. If I need to I may go back and locktite the threading, but for now it feels solid.

Mini-6PD, exactly. Never thought about what light it reminded me of, just that I liked the style and the feel. Stock, the little bugger was tough and the brightest light I'd owned at that point. After some initial debugging (my first time modding a light) its proven to be rugged after the emitter and driver swap as well. The UCL really made a difference over the old, pitted window too. Now to find a good way to carry; pocket clip or belt case? Or clip-on case? I dunno.... :D

Edit: BTW, heres the link to the DX web page of the light. Except for the stock glass and the lanyard its proven to be very rugged. Used it as a bike light for a while and its seen plenty of woods and bon fire time!
 
Last edited:
Top