Need some bike, cycling, cardio, exercise advice...

I need some advice from you bike experts, and from what I have read on the "Beginner road bike" thread, there are a lot of you out there... :twothumbs

I have gained an obscene amount of weight over the last year odd and was trying to lose some by jogging. I tried that for a week and there was a pain in my left knee, which I still have 7 weeks later now, despite the fact that I have not jogged since then…. :sigh:

Anyway, I figured that I would try to lose some weight cycling as it would be a minimal impact activity. So I bought myself an "el cheapo" mountain bike to cycle round the estate where I live in. I try to get a decent workout by going upslope whenever I can…

I cycle only on paved roads and have no intention of going off road or on a dirt track anytime soon… I know that I really should be getting a road bike for my needs…..

BUT… I enjoy the upright riding position that a mountain bike provides, the wider tires and the suspension on the frame…. (my current ride's el cheapo, but strangely it does have front and rear suspension on the frame, which I know is probably low quality stuff cos the rear suspension creaks with every pedal that I make… it really sounds like I'm abusing my bike, which at close to 195 lbs, I probably am…. )

I'm looking to buy a better ride for about $1000 or less…. What are my options on buying a better ride?

Are there also any recommendations and advice on any other stuff relating to riding as a form of cardio exercise or for losing some weight?

Oh… I'm about 1.72m, which translates to about 5ft 8in.

And also... its hot and sunny whole year round here in Singapore, so definitely no cold weather gear required...

Thanks

I am fond of Specialized bikes. But there are numerous brands that will work well for you. I would get an hardtail for that price because you are not going to be on the dirt, so the full suspension will cost more and make it harder to pedal because of increase in weight and loss of efficiency. It would be best if you could go to a bike store to try out different sized bikes to see what size would fit you best.
And if you want to avoid the heat, ride at night using light.

offroadcmpr said:

I am fond of Specialized bikes. But there are numerous brands that will work well for you. I would get an hardtail for that price because you are not going to be on the dirt, so the full suspension will cost more and make it harder to pedal because of increase in weight and loss of efficiency. It would be best if you could go to a bike store to try out different sized bikes to see what size would fit you best.
And if you want to avoid the heat, ride at night using light.

Click to expand...

Thanks for chiming in... may consider going without suspension.. I suppose suspension is a wishlist..

I ride mostly in the evenings, past 7pm and early mornings, before 7am, so heat's usually not an issue... have lights mounted using twofish...

a Dereelight CL1V3 in front and a Blitz on strobe pointing backwards... only thing is that the Blitz doesn't have a red filter... so its strobing white LED...

Hey there friend

Actually your idea of a mountain bike was a good choice I think, with the exception of the suspension. I know, most generic retail chains automatically come with that stuff. Although I don't really think you're abusing the bike, since they can easily handle much more weight than you're placing on it, the quality probably leaves a lot to be desired.

For strickly road purposes it's not necessary for suspension at all and it will actually slow you down by absorbing some of the energy you put into the pedal strokes. Unless you have a history of riding dedicated, sport/racing type road bikes, I'd really recommend not venturing into that area because I think you'd find them very uncomfortable. Their geometry often puts a great amount of weight distribution over the front wheel with a high seat and low stem and bar configuration. Obviously there is some adjustability but it is limited to stem height since the seat really needs to remain at a place where you'll get nearly full leg extension.

Since you don't forsee doing any off road riding. I'll suggest a hybrid or urban bike. The Trek FX is considered a hybrid and will give you a slightly more upright position than the most relaxed sport/race bike.
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/bike_path/fx/75fx/


The Trek Valencia is a urban style bike and has a slightly wider wheel and tire which provide a bit more float. These will also handle a dirt path or driveway with more flexibility than the hybrid. It also has a slightly more upright position than the FX model above.
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/valencia/valencia/

If you think you might change your mind about riding on some dirt or doing some trail riding, then a 29" wheel mountain bike might be a lot of fun for you. I'm riding "29er" wheels exclusively now and I won't be purchasing and 26" wheels bikes ever again. Anyhow, the Gary Fisher Mamba is a nice sub $1000 29er with a very nice quality front shock that can be "locked out" for street use. By locking out the fort it essentially turns it into a rigid (no suspension) bike, with the option of going back to suspension with the flick of a lever on top of the fork.
http://www.fisherbikes.com/bike/model/mamba

Any of these bikes would be outstanding for street riding but the Trek FX would be the sportiest and quickest. You'll notice an amazing difference in ride quality compared to what you're on now, not to mention any of these bike will be 6-12 lbs lighter, which is a huge weight savings. The small amount of rotational mass in the wheels will feel unbelievable when accelerating and stopping. Also you picked a great price range since some of the best bike values are found in the $750 - $1000 range.

As far as my serious bicycle history goes, I started road racing when I was 13 years old and raced through the age of 19. After that I raced mountain bikes on and off for 5 years and recently got back into it again just a couple of years ago after a decade of no racing. I ride an average of 80-100 miles a week currently...half of those miles on road and the other half off road. I'm increasing my ride distance as I'm preparing for a big race in November.

As far as fitness tips go, I'll wait for ya to get your new bike

Can't give much advice on the bike, but I would recommend that you see someone if your knee is still in pain after 7 weeks. Increased activity and use even from "low impact" like that from a bicycle could further aggravate a potential problem in your knee. Hard to tell from an internet forum but if it is still in pain when using it thru a normal range of motion I'd consider a checkup before stepping up activity.

Yes to biking for your purposes! I used to run, then did some biking. I picked it back up a couple of years ago and glad of it. Pick whatever type of frame fits your style. Match the tires (width and tread) to your type of riding. And hybrids should work fine for you. I ride road bike frames but a friend of mine put over 20,000 miles on a Cannondale hybrid frame so I have a lot of respect for them. Another friendly forum (besides this one) is bikeforums.net. Be careful.

Oh yeah, regarding the knee, you might want to get that checked out if it persists. Bicycling is fairly safe on the knees unless you try to pedal too tall of a gear. Try to turn a medium cadence of at least 70 - 80 rpm. Much slower than that while under power and it can start to catch up with you if you do enough of it.

Also, check that your seat height is correct. At the bottom of the pedal stroke, your knee should be about 95% extended, just a little bit flexed, like it would be if you were walking. That's how knees are accustomed to carrying a load, not all scrunched up (nor locked in a fully-extended position either).

Many casual riders put their seat too low because they think they should be able to reach the ground almost flat-footed, which is not normally the case unless the bike is specially designed for that. It can cause knee trouble. If in doubt, ask at a decent bike shop.

Thanks for the concern about the knee... I'm a little concerned about it too as its taking a bit too long to recover... its definitely much better than when it first happened, but its still there...

Patriot, thanks for the links... will check those out when I get home after work today... sneaking in a post at work right now...

I think the height of my current ride is quite right.. I know that both feet should not be flat on the ground. when i'm on the seat, I need to tip toe to maintain my balance. Will go back to check the 95% extension thing, but it should be about there....

Think my fitness is a mess at the moment... :thumbsdow

I would second the hybrid bike as a good choice. Make sure the tires are smooth, not knobby, they ride better on pavement. Also, don't forget about exercising the upper body as well. The arms, shoulders, and back need to be strong as well. Riding a bike uses these muscles, but does not really exercise those areas.

In order to start losing weight (and also get conditioned) you'll need to ride at least half an hour, preferably more. I've been doing 1.5 hours on average about 5 times a week. Even with that, I'll be lucky to lose 1.5 pounds a week. However, it's better doing it that way. You body gradually adapts to the new weight. You don't have to change your calorie intake at all. And you get in the habit of exercising which ensures you won't gain the weight back.

Regarding intensity, there's no need to go full bore like you're doing a time trial in the Tour. I generally keep my cadence between 90 and 100, and at a level where I can pedal continuously for the whole time. Occasionally, I'll do higher intensity spurts when traffic allows. City riding is good in that the constant speed changes add variety. The only key is to make sure you have a bike and places to ride that you enjoy so you'll keep at it. Good luck and may the wind be at your back!

Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas...

Patriot, I have looked at the links that you posted... and for the most part, the specs of the bike don't mean a thing to me... I definitely need to read up on some bike vocab first... :shakehead

All I know is.. wow, that looks neat....

Anyway, I stumbled onto sierratradingpost and they have a nice page there that talks about sizing and certain parts of the bike... think I will start from there.

will.... my upper body is pretty ok... I can still manage my 12 -15 chin-ups even with my additional weight. Of course its defnitely not as easy as before....

I have a 20kg dumbbell at home and I'll do some bicep, tricep, shoulder and back exercise using that. Don't really have time to go to a gym right now so that will have to do for the moment.

jtr1962..... I've been trying to ride everyday, for at least 30 - 40 minutes... the route that I take is about 2/3 upslope and I obviously cover the downslope portion a lot faster, so I'm like panting quite a fair bit of the time when I ride around the estate. I have not really weighed my self before I started and right now as well, but my work pants does seem a tad looser...

I have been riding for about 3 weeks now, first week was almost everyday, second and third week I rode 4 times in a week. I defnitely feel fitter now. I feel like I'm able to push myself harder and I tackle the upslopes a bit easier now... the feeling's good. I'm still a pretty slow rider though... nothing like the 18mph average spped that you guys were talking about in the "beginner road bike" thread...

I go upslope at like a "quick jog" pace, and even on the straight road, I don't think I hit even 10 - 12mph. I dare not go too fast for a couple of reasons:

1. I'm still not confident enough
2. Its an estate so there are people walking around, cars driving around
3. There are road humps everywhere
4. Too many T and Cross junctions to slow down at

The only other option would be to ride on the road and that is an even more dangerous option.... drivers over here aren't too tolerant or considerate towards cyclists on the roads...

Well... keep the suggestions coming guys.... :thumbsup:

I am fortunate here, there is an exercise path - 5 miles around a regional airport and golf course. There are only 5 entrances that have vehicle traffic. The rest of it is just paved.

When I was in better shape I could average 18 miles per hour, now it is less. If you haven't purchased a pair of bike shorts with padding in the seat - get a pair. That makes riding a lot more comfortable.. also - a helmet...

Tessaiga said:

Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas...

Patriot, I have looked at the links that you posted... and for the most part, the specs of the bike don't mean a thing to me... I definitely need to read up on some bike vocab first... :shakehead

All I know is.. wow, that looks neat....

Anyway, I stumbled onto sierratradingpost and they have a nice page there that talks about sizing and certain parts of the bike... think I will start from there.

Click to expand...

I'm guessing that you're referring to the parts specs and so on...? That's ok, it really isn't necessary to dig deeply into that sort of thing since you're new to this stuff. Trying to understand where the level and quality of each part fits into the over all tier of things would be like trying to learn about 30 different flashlights. All that you really need to know is that the package is solid, tested and will give you at least a good decade of normal use. Almost all non-suspension bikes in that price range are going have very good parts.

At this point the frame style itself will have the largest bearing on what you'll experience while riding...well, that and the wheels. You'll want to go to a reputable dealer for Trek (if you're looking at Trek's) ride, and stand over as many different models as you can. This is because you're looking to get the best possible frame fit that you can. The top tube or TT length of the bike frame is the most critical factor when purchasing a bike. The tt length is the base point that determines how upright or stretched out you are over the bike. Small changes can be made by changing out stems or performing small adjustments fore and aft on the seat rails but you'll still want to get most of your basic fit done through the frame size obviously.

In the FX series you'd almost certainly want the 17.5" frame (distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube) unless you have some very unusual body dimensions, like a long torso or really short legs or something. A 17.5" FX has a 54.8 cm effective top tube which will you'll probably be staying fairly close to no matter which bike you select.

The FX, like mountain bikes are measured in inches for a general sizing figure. More sporty or racing road bikes are measured in cm as their general sizing reference figure. In you're case you'll want to start looking for a 17.5" frame or a 54cm frame...both with tt lengths of around 54cm, give or take 1.5cm. In other words, ask the dealer to show you bikes with a 52.5 - 55.5cm range effective top tube length. Take your time and ask a lot of questions since once you buy the frame you cant go back and do it over. Differnt seats, seat posts, stems and handlebars can be exchanged or purchased later but the frame can't be.

Next to the importance of the correct frame fit would be the wheels. Always get the very best wheel that you can afford since is has the biggest effect on how the bike feels when accelerating, turning and braking. If you find yourself looking at two similar models and one bike has a better crank but the other comes with a nicer wheel set, go for the bike with the nicer wheel set. The dealer can help steer you in that area since they're familar with the different makes and levels.

One last thing regarding deals, often at this time of the year the bike stores are trying to get rid of the 2008 models in preparation for the 2009's. Typically the buyer can get one heck of a deal on the "older" model and the dealer will often have a good amount of wiggle room in the price. This is a very smart way to purchase a new bike.

Hope that helps some and wasn't too overwhelming.

Fit or Fat series by Covert Bailey is very good. Easy to read and understand. Lots of good information. Get your knee checked out, 7 weeks is a long time for it to be sore. Above all make it enjoyable, it's easier to stick with it.

will said:

... If you haven't purchased a pair of bike shorts with padding in the seat - get a pair. That makes riding a lot more comfortable.. also - a helmet...

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That's good advice. If you find your hands get a bit numb while riding, get a pair of bike gloves [they are padded].
Good luck, and it's great that you are smart enough to start an exercise program.
The thing that got me much more involved in cycling and really educated me the most about it was joining a bike touring club. They had rides all the time and riding with others is a great way to meet people who share a sense of adventure and independence. Riding with other experienced riders taught me alot about bike handling, equipment and fitness. I started out with a low quality bike, and learned what was good from them [and where to get it] before I bought better equipment.

Another good way to set seat height... the highest you can get it before your hips rock back and forth.

Biking can be a little intimidating, both with the gear and other riders. Figure out the kind of riding you like, get a good fit on the bike, and ride your style. At some point you will have to push it to get the benefits you seek, but it is fun and can give you results.

I agree with GLOCK18 that brisk walking is a good idea twice a week. I would also advise against cycling alone unless you plan to race.

You can do very well riding a MTB or hybrid on the road and you may find it more comfortable than on a road bike too if you are not concerned with speed. Even I train on my fat tired hybrid (converted to road position) when the weather is bad as the braking is better and the speed is lower.

If you are feeling fatigued all the time you are doing too much and need time to rest. Sorry if that sounds a bit patronising but it always amazes me how many people do too much exercise too soon and pay for it.

Good luck and have fun.