Tikka XP

OAM

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I had an old tikka xp that was probably about 2 years old, i did the Seoul P4 mod in it. However I'm sad to say I may have lost it on a trip this weekend. I was wondering if the new tikka xp's use a brighter emitter now or if its still the same. Also if I purchase a new one is there a better emitter to mod it with now? Thanks
 

nzbazza

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AFAIK the Tikka XP hasn't been updated to a modern LED emitter yet. The Black Diamond Spot 2008 model has a Cree and Princeton Tec have just released the 2008 Eos with a Rebel LED.

Check out Half-Watt's thread on Cree Headlamps.

The Seoul P4 is still the best LED for modding the Tikka XP with, just buy the best bin you can.
 

OAM

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AFAIK the Tikka XP hasn't been updated to a modern LED emitter yet. The Black Diamond Spot 2008 model has a Cree and Princeton Tec have just released the 2008 Eos with a Rebel LED.

Check out Half-Watt's thread on Cree Headlamps.

The Seoul P4 is still the best LED for modding the Tikka XP with, just buy the best bin you can.
Nzbazza- thanks. You know whats a good place to buy the P4?
 

ShooterX

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Can anyone find a post with Tikka Xp modding details (how is to be done, steps)? I searched the hole forum and nothing
 

AvidHiker

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ShooterX

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I have another smart question :) Do this modding reduce the life of the batteries and the burn time? I have here a tough choice here: I want to buy a Tikka XP and a Primelite Race but i don't have money for bought now so i have to choose which one to buy now and which next month. Can you advice me pls
 

AvidHiker

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AvidHiker

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I have another smart question :) Do this modding reduce the life of the batteries and the burn time? I have here a tough choice here: I want to buy a Tikka XP and a Primelite Race but i don't have money for bought now so i have to choose which one to buy now and which next month. Can you advice me pls

Well, all else being equal, it shouldn't. Not sure what regulation circuitry the Tikka uses, but (IIRC) if the Seoul P4 is a similar Vf to the original emitter, then all you should get is a bit more output for the same runtime (battery life). Its possible that runtime could even increase as this is a more efficient emitter. I'm not an expert on this subject though, so maybe someone else should chime in here.

Are you aware of the zebralight? Seems to be the most popular headlamp on the forum these days, so you may want to have a look if you haven't already. Personally, I'm not a fan of Crees due to the ring artifact, but it's an interesting design.
 

ShooterX

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I"ve seen Zebra but being from Romania the transport would kill me so i have to find other headlamps from Europe or Romania.In fact i payed today for a primelite Race but i need also a "working" light so i thought aboutTikka Xp
 

ShooterX

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I found the Seoul P4 but i also found this:

LED Cree XR-E 7090 Q2 Star, white neutral, 186 lm, 90° this is better or should i stick to the SSC?


Or can someone give me the exact name for the SSC led best for modding a Tikka XP so i can search and try to find it in Europe.Pretty please
Is this the led best for Tikka XP.They are so many.If is not ok who offers to send one for me from USA(the right one )
http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Seoul/1.0W-Seoul-LEDs/Seoul-1W-Star-LED-LT-809_121_64.html
 
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ShooterX

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I keep searching until i find the right one, but i need to find out the output and the voltage of the SSC, so if you can help me pls do
 

yellow

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You dont need to know that (or decide based on that), because all the white leds are more-or-less identical here.
(PS: You mean current and voltage, not output. Output is the lights You get, here the highest bin means more, at same current and voltage)


What You have to do is:
open the light and disassemble till You can access the led.
Look if the led is mounted onto a star board (which then might be fixed with screws and definitly means: easy work) or if the emitter alone is glued onto some metal heatsink (which means: ask again, more complex operation)

Cheap and therefore good for this 1st mod is to get the led (on Star, as I suppose) from dealextreme.com ("flashlights" / "DIY parts and tools"), or the shop You liked.
A Seoul P4 led, actual bin should be an "U" (if it is a "T" and cheaper --> a bit less bright. It is on You).
... like this one here: http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Powe...3.5W-Star-LED--P4-Version--LT-980_121_78.html

Way to go:
open light, check Star/single led, order new led, get old led out, mount/solder new one in, try light, close it, done.


but (IIRC) if the Seoul P4 is a similar Vf to the original emitter, then all you should get is a bit more output for the same runtime (battery life).
... which would make the tip for emitter swaps totally useless - effort to improvement wise

When there is still a Luxeon inside a light, the output doubles with runtime staying the same,
thats why emitter swaps are the bomb
 
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yellow

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have You checked dealextreme? they mention bin "U" or "T", or ...
with the shop You linked, the bin is not stated, but - of course, like most any shop - the specs of the best bin is there.
I really wonder how all the shops come to the best bins, simply when they are mentionned by the producer and what they do with their older led models
:thinking:


for deciding:
You have to open the light and check what led is inside.
If it looks like this: http://www.zexstar.com/product_info...l-Z-Power-P4-Star--Alb--240lm--125--176-.html it is a STAR --> easy, just change it
it if looks like this: http://www.zexstar.com/product_info...Z-Power-P4-Emiter--Alb--240lm--125--176-.html it is the emitter alone, ask again then
... but these are the two ones possible
 
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