Upgrading Fenix L1P?

I love the single stage and I like the feel of the old HA finish and the runtime is fine by be, I just want more power/efficiency. Anyone mod these and how much?
Thanks!

Hmm, I'm sure there's several threads on this, including some of mine. An SSC-P4 LED replacement is great. I have a thread with tips on getting the pill out. I'd point to them, but I'm on my mobile now.

Hmm, doesn't seem to be threads that the search engine can find. The threads are locked on this one

like this?
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/202363

Here's another thread:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=183784

NB-any posts of mine with pix won't show due to my personal webspace disappearing. I need to look at image hosters and/or find a new ISP with some personal webspace.

modification can only work if the light is unpotted, if not your going to have to cut it out

I bought an L2P with a Nekomane CR123 tube on CPFMP last year. I upgraded the emitter to an SSC P4 U-bin and put in a shaved down AMC7135 driver. My pill was potted and I destroyed the original driver board getting the pill out, but I was planning on the full mod so I didn't mind. Future thoughts are putting a Flu-PIC in it. The space for the driver is 16mm and most of the cheap drivers you find on KD or DX are 17mm, so they need to be shaved. Once you get the pill out, the hard part is over and the fun can begin!

I just bought an L1P so that I could do another mod and have a light that runs on 14500. I understand that they fit the L1P body.

By the way, I run the driver board at 350mA to preserve battery life as the light just gets used around the house and that seems to be a good level. The next highest level with the AMC7135 is 700mA.

I modded a L2P with a Seoul SXOH led here, well worth it.

AlexGT

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=122735

I've put a U-bin Seoul P4 in a bunch of these.

The worst part is getting out the pill. Get yourself a pair of sharp needlenose pliers with comfortable grips, and a 6-pack of beer.

1. Turn CCW until the pill stops. Try not to scratch the PCB or elongate the hole (yeah, right)
2. Turn CW back near the starting position.
3. Using a dental pick and compressed air, scrape out the epoxy that shows up on the threads.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 until it reaches the top.

Here is a comparison between the L2P vs. the SF E2e.

http://www.zippyvideos.com/6792783585525576/fenix_sxoh_li-ion_aa/

AlexGT

I've put a U-bin Seoul P4 in a bunch of these.

The worst part is getting out the pill. Get yourself a pair of sharp needlenose pliers with comfortable grips, and a 6-pack of beer.

1. Turn CCW until the pill stops. Try not to scratch the PCB or elongate the hole (yeah, right)
2. Turn CW back near the starting position.
3. Using a dental pick and compressed air, scrape out the epoxy that shows up on the threads.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 until it reaches the top.

Here's my last L1S before I sold it.

AlexGT said:

Here is a comparison between the L2P vs. the SF E2e.

http://www.zippyvideos.com/6792783585525576/fenix_sxoh_li-ion_aa/

AlexGT

Click to expand...

:wow: the SXOH emitter performed quite well
You might want to consider U2SVOH,i installed in my Novatac and it is absolutely brighter vs U2SWOi

Ahh, okay, I think I'm just gonna buy an L1T

The L1P/L2P is one of the easiest lights to mod. I've done a few of these already... in fact, I've just put a high CRI Seoul in one (it rox, btw). Never had any problems getting the pill out. A pair of needlenose pliers, a strap wrench and some heat always get the job done. If you think this is hard, try taking a KL4 apart, hehe.

A P4 works really well with the L1P/L2P reflector and throws a surprisingly nice and smooth beam. You might want to sand the back of the relector though to shorten it approximately .03" for best focus with the Seoul. If you don't, it's still going to work fine, but the output will be a bit more floody.

Oh and as always, make sure to insulate the positive base of the P4 properly...