So, I got my Fenix TK20

One thing that is kinda bothering me is that it's a little decentered. Does anyone know how you can fix it?

I think you can't fix that without sending the flashlight back...

The head is sealed, if you open it, you'll loose warranty and the operation you would have to perform would be too risky.

So, either get happy with it as it is, or send it back to get it fixed. They'll probably just put another head on it...

insanefred said:

One thing that is kinda bothering me is that it's a little decentered. Does anyone know how you can fix it?

Click to expand...

Otherwise, what are your impressions of the TK20? Thanks.

The LED? As long as it doesn't affect the 'beam pattern too much, it should not be a problem.

IIRC some of the Cree domes aren't centered on the LED, so the die of the LED is centered but the dome isn't.

roymail said:

Otherwise, what are your impressions of the TK20? Thanks.

Click to expand...

Seems pretty sturdy.

Approx. 4000K as advertised. NOT NEARLY AS WARM AS OTHER BEAM SHOTS INDICATED! Most incandescent are near 3000K (a tad too warm for me), most LED's seem like around 6200K too cool for me. so 4000K and closer to my taste. The grip does slip a little. Oh well..

Now me being nit picky: the lanyard holes are at the end tail cap, as personal experience tells me that not to attach a lanyard that is like this because it eventually unscrews itself and when you least expect it. Your flash light is gone except for the tail cap.
The light came a little off centered, it does effect the beam a tad. (but I do notice that the review sample on CPF is a little too.) :duh2:

Cree LED dies are sometimes not centered under the dome precisely. Fenix attempts to center the die, not the dome, in the center of the reflector. When you shine it on anything other than a white wall, any trace of either case disappears.

My Fenix L2dQ5 has the most 'un-centred' LED of my collection but it doesn't seem to affect the beam at all!
jr/

So, I had a chance to try this light out in my local park at night. I tested in against the Energizer 3 watt e2 2xaa light on high.
The fenix TK20 is definitely a thrower, the trees grass DO pop much much better! Compared to the energizer, they almost look the same at 3' but almost 100m the fenix shines.
I think it will just be a keeper.
Now I wonder how will the TK20 compares to the Streamlight streamlight Propolymer luxeon. The was my last good light and it throw pretty good if I remember correctly. Can anyone confirm weather or not the tk20 is better in throw?

OoOps!

Marduke said:

Cree LED dies are sometimes not centered under the dome precisely. Fenix attempts to center the die, not the dome, in the center of the reflector.

Click to expand...

A couple of my Fenix lights have had the emitter clearly off centre but the beam is also clearly off centre too...

Marduke said:

Cree LED dies are sometimes not centered under the dome precisely. Fenix attempts to center the die, not the dome, in the center of the reflector. When you shine it on anything other than a white wall, any trace of either case disappears.

Click to expand...

Personally I think this was spouted off by a fenix fanboy, repeated a couple of times and is now internet fact. Not a dig at you, marduke, but something I've seen happen on a couple of other forums as well- someone says something unprovable, someone else repeats it, and before you know it everyone on the forum know's it's a fact.

Jarl said:

Personally I think this was spouted off by a fenix fanboy, repeated a couple of times and is now internet fact. Not a dig at you, marduke, but something I've seen happen on a couple of other forums as well- someone says something unprovable, someone else repeats it, and before you know it everyone on the forum know's it's a fact.

Click to expand...

Hehe. Welcome to CPF myths. This is not the only one

The Fenix stock photos of the tk20 show that theirs is off centered too, just like mine.
I don't feel like making another thread but... Can anyone compare the tk20 vs the Streamlight propolymer luxeon. As for throw?

Jarl said:

Personally I think this was spouted off by a fenix fanboy, repeated a couple of times and is now internet fact. Not a dig at you, marduke, but something I've seen happen on a couple of other forums as well- someone says something unprovable, someone else repeats it, and before you know it everyone on the forum know's it's a fact.

Click to expand...

It was first "spouted off" by foursevens himself, so unless you think he made it up...


Some LED's inevitably come with off center dies, and either way you install them they are going to affect the beam, so it's best to attempt to minimize any ill effects.

This off-centered LED thing had been quite common with Fenix lately. Other brands were far lesser if any. Seems like Fenix had been having problems with their quality control. Hope they'll fix their quality issues soon before they become branded with having poor quality lights. Regarding off centered die with respect to the LED frame, haven't seen one so, can't comment on that yet. Most fenix I have that has off center LEDs have poor beam patten exactly corresponding to the position of the LED.

I suggest you get it changed.

Off center LED is not so uncommon to many brands. It is not only Fenix issue. Also it doesn't affect a real world usage of the light. Unless your main usage is a white wall hunting...

On the TK20, has anyone heard so far if there have been problems with it hurting NiMH cells through over discharge, like the stories about the L2Ds a while back?

Some said (on the L2D) it was due to running the batteries down too low, some said it was using turbo mode for too long.

I just wondered if anyone has seen similar incidents with the TK20.

BTW, does it actually run ok on alkaline cells?

Stress_Test said:

On the TK20, has anyone heard so far if there have been problems with it hurting NiMH cells through over discharge, like the stories about the L2Ds a while back?

Some said (on the L2D) it was due to running the batteries down too low, some said it was using turbo mode for too long.

I just wondered if anyone has seen similar incidents with the TK20.

BTW, does it actually run ok on alkaline cells?

Click to expand...

I don't believe it's been hurting my batteries... only time will tell.
I can try a run time on alkalines ( what batteries would you like me to try? (brand?))
BTW, I did my own run time test, with 2600Mah Nimh I get 2hrs 15mins. until 50% Last 22mins gets brighter, otherwise perfect regulation.

Oops nevermind on the runtime, I dug up this thread

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/207982

Thanks though.

The battery damage I was referring to earlier was pretty noticeable. I think you would've seen it by now. Guys had lights with tail caps that were bulging out due to the gas released from the NiMH cells.

Maybe the current drain has been reduced enough compared to the L2D turbo to prevent cell damage in long term use.

Just a guess.



Anyway, I've been weighing the pros and cons of the TK20 vs. the TK11 lately.

The TK20 would work with the AAs I've already got on hand, whereas the TK11 would require another battery setup. But, the TK11 has more throw and output. I guess it's a question of whether the convenience of the AA outweighs the performance advantage of the TK11.

Hmmm, decisions decisions.

Yeah, I know, "buy both"! haha

I think the TK11 would be a great light. The one thing I can tell you about the TK20 is that it does render colors much more accurate than most LED lights. I found used a friends LED light that had a cool white LED luxeon 40 lumens. He shined in on some what was thought as some trees, looked good and bright and 20' away. However I shined mine on low, (about 45 lumens) we were able to identify it that there was a also a rasberry bush too.
The red beries where nearly invisible with his cool white LED.