Gransee
Flashlight Enthusiast
If anyone got an Arc6 that shifts from white to blue in a matter of seconds on level 7, this is now a known issue with a small fraction of the driver pcbs and we can fix it under warranty. We test for it now so it new purchases should not be affected.
If the beam looks a little blue all the time, that is probably the normal cast of the cool white P4. But if it noticably shifts in a matter of seconds from cool white to a surprisingly dark blue, then the circuit board needs to be replaced and we can take care of this for you. We have found that is is easiest to detect this on brightness level 7. This is how we test it at the factory.
This is how you can test to see if your unit is affected: assign level 7 to an easy to reach stage (like stage 2 is fine). Or, if you haven't changed your levels and the light is still in the factory configuration, stage3 is level 7. Activate level 7 and place the light on a fixed surface shining against a white wall. Wait a few seconds. If you see no obvious (and I mean this will be very hard to miss, it gets quite blue) shift within about 20 seconds, then you are fine. Otherwise, let us swap out the pcb for you. Send an email to [email protected]
We occasionaly get emails from people who say their flashlight looks a little blueish. With the Arc6 using the P4 led, it is right in the middle of the cool white scale so it should be like a cool white flourescent bulb. If your Arc6 has the blue shift problem, it will be very noticable. Nothing subtle about the shift.
And yes, it is normal for the tint to shift a little bit from level to level because the current is different for each level. I added the extra explanation because sometimes people have a hard time seeing the true color of the beam. The blue shift I am talking about is quite strong (and would normally be a cool feature if the goal was novelty).
OT, when I was first designing the Arc6, I thought of adding a tint shift menu option just for fun. It would cause the light to go to either full blue or a bit on the yellow-green side. However, that feature was nixed early on with several other features to make the menu less cluttered.
peter
If the beam looks a little blue all the time, that is probably the normal cast of the cool white P4. But if it noticably shifts in a matter of seconds from cool white to a surprisingly dark blue, then the circuit board needs to be replaced and we can take care of this for you. We have found that is is easiest to detect this on brightness level 7. This is how we test it at the factory.
This is how you can test to see if your unit is affected: assign level 7 to an easy to reach stage (like stage 2 is fine). Or, if you haven't changed your levels and the light is still in the factory configuration, stage3 is level 7. Activate level 7 and place the light on a fixed surface shining against a white wall. Wait a few seconds. If you see no obvious (and I mean this will be very hard to miss, it gets quite blue) shift within about 20 seconds, then you are fine. Otherwise, let us swap out the pcb for you. Send an email to [email protected]
We occasionaly get emails from people who say their flashlight looks a little blueish. With the Arc6 using the P4 led, it is right in the middle of the cool white scale so it should be like a cool white flourescent bulb. If your Arc6 has the blue shift problem, it will be very noticable. Nothing subtle about the shift.
And yes, it is normal for the tint to shift a little bit from level to level because the current is different for each level. I added the extra explanation because sometimes people have a hard time seeing the true color of the beam. The blue shift I am talking about is quite strong (and would normally be a cool feature if the goal was novelty).
OT, when I was first designing the Arc6, I thought of adding a tint shift menu option just for fun. It would cause the light to go to either full blue or a bit on the yellow-green side. However, that feature was nixed early on with several other features to make the menu less cluttered.
peter
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