Nitecore D10/EX10 signaling?

Hi guys, I'm looking into the Nitecore D10/EX10/D20 and so far I'm liking its features.

However I have a question concerning using the light for signaling, ie. morse code.

In particular, I like that they have the PD which allows for momentary on/off, but my question is, would the long/short bust of light during morse code transmission be interrupted by the fast hi/low mode switching?

Anyone having one of these lights willing to test it and report for me?

Thanks in advance :thumbsup:

Light-Eater said:

In particular, I like that they have the PD which allows for momentary on/off, but my question is, would the long/short bust of light during morse code transmission be interrupted by the fast hi/low mode switching?

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Yes it will jump to high/low when used they way you are inquiring about.
So it probably would not be the ideal light for signaling.

DaFABRICATA said:

Yes it will jump to high/low when used they way you are inquiring about.
So it probably would not be the ideal light for signaling.

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Ah, thank you DaFABRICATA for the fast response.

A normal momentary switch light would fail quickly due to carbon buildup right, if it was subjected to constant clicking?

It's a shame as it seems the PD would be best, anyway thanks.

Yes you can use them for signaling by loosening the head.

I'm using it right now, but unfortunately I only know SOS!

kaichu dento said:

Yes you can use them for signaling by loosening the head.

I'm using it right now, but unfortunately I only know SOS!

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Ok that is contradictory to what DaFABRICATA said.

So you can signal Morse code with it without accidentally activating other modes, such as high or low?

If you have one in front of you and don't mind, would you please test for me?

Thanks

If you loosen the head by at least one and a half turn, when you press the button the piston will not be able to fully press the split ring and there will be no change in the level. You can then signal as much as you like.

From my experiance, I have found that it will jump to high and low levels if you press on the piston twice and hold it like you would for SOS signaling.
It may not happen all the time, but if you are trying to remain somewhat discrete about it then there is the chance it will happen. Even with the head unscrewed, mine does it at times. I will press the piston in and it just barely will loose contact and then jump to high when I don't want it. I had this happen just a few hours ago while on a walk in the woods.

Thats my experiance anyway...:shrug:

You would wind up with a Very sore finger in a hurry, as it is a small button, a stiff spring, a fairly long stroke, and surrounded by the tailstand, which has a couple of too-sharp corners where the notch is located..

You would be forced to use the tip of the finger, not the ball or pad of the finger. The EX10 might be slightly better in this respect, due to it's larger diameter.

I just tried it, and the switching did not get in the way, as kilovolt said.

However, it is definitely not optimal for the purpose.

DaFABRICATA said:

From my experiance, I have found that it will jump to high and low levels if you press on the piston twice and hold it like you would for SOS signaling......

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Both my D10 and EX10 do that only in case the head is not much loose. If I unscrew the head by one and a half/two turns then I can push the button quickly or slowly and keep it pressed but there's no change in the level.
I understand that in this condition if the piston just touches the split ring without pushing it to the end of its run there can't be a change in level.

Ok, so it's not always consistent.

Thank you all for the info btw.

I'm not using it for life and death situations as far as signaling is concerned, just practicing.

However, DaFABRICATA, do you think that the length of the battery used has something to do with it?

I don't have one yet so I can't physically judge it. Which one do you have? I am considering the D10, if that helps.

Light-Eater said:

Ok that is contradictory to what DaFABRICATA said.

So you can signal Morse code with it without accidentally activating other modes, such as high or low?

If you have one in front of you and don't mind, would you please test for me?

Thanks

Click to expand...

I was actually testing it for you when I made my last post, and again now.

No problems and the concern about my thumb getting tired; I think it would have to be a mighty long conversation! :duh2:

Another tip I picked up from someone here on CPF was using the inside of your thumb joint to activate if you're getting tired; works great!

Anyone having trouble with the light staying on needs to make sure the top of their piston is clean, which I've only had to do a couple times in the last couple of months.

I think you can Morse code to your hearts content with your D10! :thumbsup:

I have experienced what DaFABRICATA describes, but I think it can be remedied as Kilovolt describes - by loosening the head enough to prevent level change. Thanks for clarifying that Kilovolt, I hadn't quite figured out what was going on!

In my experience, it's not the most reliable momentary activation, but it works with a little practice (and an understanding of how the light functions doesn't hurt I suppose).

Raytech said:

I concur. You can use the D10, D20, EX10 for Morse code if you loosen the head enough. If you examine the way the piston works, The battery circuit is completed when the piston engages the split ring in the head. The mode switching is accomplished when the piston moves further toward the head and presses the split ring down. By loosening the head a half turn the piston is backed off the split ring and the battery circuit is broken until you press on the piston button. If you loosen it further the travel in the piston is increased enough that when you press the piston button it can make contact with the split ring and turn on the light but it can't travel far enough to press the split ring and change modes.

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You can do it even with the light just barely twisted off, just don't push the button all the way in. This is a two stage button in momentary mode, push half way for momentary and (from halfway) push all-in to ramp the brightness. If you press all-in from off and hold you'll go right to high. Just practice not pushing the button all the way in and it'll signal just fine.

Light-Eater,

You seem to be getting a lot of different opinions, but here is a link to a thread that explains how to use the momentary feature without initiating ramping or short cuts.

See my post in this thread. You might also jump bac to Orcinus post (quoted in my post) to see the discussion that was going on when he posted this info.

Apparently the switch in the head of the EX10/D10 serves two purposes:
1) Close the circuit with the piston to deliver power to the head (only contact necessary)
2) Electric switch (switch must be compressed)

In momentary mode, the lights almost have a two-phase mode. If you press it down gently, it simply closes the circuit and the light comes on in the last mode used. If you press it down hard, it will activate the switch and begin ramping.

To get the most tactile memory mode, tighten the light until it just does come on and then back it off 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn. The piston won't be as clunky feeling.

I have not been able to make the light do a MIN or MAX short-cut jump in momentary mode. Perhaps I'm just not fast enough.

If you are signalling fast enough to initiate a short-cut jump, you must be really good at Morse code! If you are causing it to ramp, you are just pushing the button too hard.

Edit: Oops! I took too long on my response and Raytech and superflytnt both posted the same information. Oh, well. I concur with what they posted.

oops, wrong post. sorry

Jag, when trying to shortcut to min. or max. in momentary it's important while clicking to not release the button past the halfway point . You have to click between halfway and all-in while never releasing the button far enough for the light to turn off. It takes some pratice but it's reliable once you get the feel.

superflytnt said:

Jag, when trying to shortcut to min. or max. in momentary it's important while clicking to not release the button past the halfway point . You have to click between halfway and all-in while never releasing the button far enough for the light to turn off. It takes some pratice but it's reliable once you get the feel.

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superflytnt,

That makes sense. It hadn't occurred to me to try that. I've never had occasion to use the light in momentary mode except for curiousity.

signaling is quite simple to me, just dont push the piston so far that is engages the switching mechanism and your good, done it many a time.....

Thank you everyone for your contributions.

I came home tonight and lo and behold there are more info and confirmations.

You guys are great :thumbsup: cheers all around, I'll get a D10 as soon as I have money.

You won't be disappointed - the D10 is the only AA light that I've ever considered for EDC pocket carry, due to its slim 19mm size. All other AA lights are porky by comparison.

BTW - the GD+ is a much nicer beam than the CREE.