Quality LED Lights > 300 lumens for about $100

EngrPaul

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So the EagleTac P10C2 is 295 lumens, and based on what I have experienced it's probably accurate (at the emitter).

Which makes me wonder, has any manufacturer offered a QUALITY 300+ lumen light at $100 yet? :thinking:

Maybe soon there will be a lot of them. :popcorn:

There are some storefronts that make big claims, but so far I haven't seen reviews that show the lights are well made and meet the specs.
 

Tessaiga

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So the EagleTac P10C2 is 295 lumens, and based on what I have experienced it's probably accurate (at the emitter).

Which makes me wonder, has any manufacturer offered a QUALITY 300+ lumen light at $100 yet? :thinking:

Maybe soon there will be a lot of them. :popcorn:

There are some storefronts that make big claims, but so far I haven't seen reviews that show the lights are well made and meet the specs.

+1... I'm definitely interested too... :popcorn:
 

mdocod

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Not $100, but, $162

The Wolf-Eyes 6A P7 is advertised at 580 lumen, which is a reasonable rating for a P7.

Problem is it has kind of a weird user interface for accessing all the modes. I'm not a big fan of all those modes on a light that is intended for tactical use, but it might not bother others.

------------------------------

If you are just looking for something "over" 300 lumen, just for the sake of having a bigger number, don't worry about it, The difference between the modern ~225-290 lumen rated LEDs, and something rated "310" is not meaningful as far as usefulness, won't even be able to see a difference in most cases.

Eric
 

DigitalGreaseMonkey

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Not $100, but, $162

The Wolf-Eyes 6A P7 is advertised at 580 lumen, which is a reasonable rating for a P7.
------------------------------
If you are just looking for something "over" 300 lumen, just for the sake of having a bigger number, don't worry about it, The difference between the modern ~225-290 lumen rated LEDs, and something rated "310" is not meaningful as far as usefulness, won't even be able to see a difference in most cases.
Eric

Regarding Wolf-Eyes - I've never tried one. Eric makes an excellent point regarding output. In order to get a satisfying increase in apparent brightness, look to triple the lumen ratings if possible. This is why you see manufacturers going from single cree to triple cree, or in the case of the P7, single chip to quad chip in one package.

In the original post the term QUALITY is used as if it were some kind of absolute standard that can be met. Are we just looking to avoid the problems of the lowest-end Chinese lights, or are we looking for something that competes at the highest levels for durability and toughness?

Using my own criteria and experience, I would give a vote for the Solarforce T700. Very good throw (competes with Dereelight DBSv2 but larger hot spot) and very useful spill. Still available from Lighthound but may be discontinued. ($129)

Another that looks good is the Lumapower MVP. Seems to be built tougher than the T700, similar ouput due to the three cree emitters. ($199).

The P7 lights can be very satisfying, although my experience shows that the three cree solutions throw better and penetrate ground clutter dazzle better.

At any rate, look for 700 lumens and upward for manufacturer ratings in order to get a satisfying boost in brightness.

Best regards,
DGM
 
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PhantomPhoton

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Elektrolumens EDC P7 is pretty close to $100. Or the Wolf Eyes P7 for a bit more. The WE P7 is a great light as long as you like multi-mode accessed thru the clickie. For me the levels are set far enough apart that the 3-tap cycle doesn't bother me at all. But if you like the simplicity of a single mode direct drive beast go with the Elektrolumens.
 

metlarules

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The best deal for less than $100 has to be a maglite with a terralux tle-300.
 

LEDninja

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Or build your own SSC-P7 M@gmod.
The best deal for less than $100 has to be a maglite with a terralux tle-300.

I would be leery of buying any light claiming over 200 lumens. They are usually too hot to hold in extended use and the LEDs burn out from the overdriving.
I lost 2 lights - 1 Q5, 1 3xSSC-P4.
Bessiebenny had 2 lights dim significantly not long after he got them. He did not complete the runtime test of at least 1 other light as he was getting scared at how hot the light was getting.
BTW 1 of the lights mentioned is from Elektrolumens, another is a Fenix so quality of build is not the problem, just the overdriving of the LEDs.
Size of light is important in getting rid of the heat. Something like a 3D M@g with good heatsinking is needed.

300 lumen falls between 2 classes of lights so there are few lights in that lumen range.
The XRE/P4s at 150-200 lumen actual, 225-275 LED.
The multi XRE/P4, P7, MCE lights are 400-500 actual, 900-1000 claimed.
 

precisionworks

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The P7 lights can be very satisfying, although my experience shows that the three cree solutions throw better and penetrate ground clutter dazzle better.
+1

My P7 Mac's Custom is much like a Surefire L4 on steroids ... a very bright wall of light. 782 lumens in my IS.

Gene Malkoff's Triple Drop-In measures 736 lumens, so output is nearly the same. Beam, however, is totally different from the P7. A well defined hotspot, plus good spillbeam. Throws much farther than the P7 because the beam is more concentrated / focused.
 

PhantomPhoton

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Looks like the host could be decent but that 5-mode drive just kills it. But I agree that definitely should give over 300 lumens. What's the current draw from the 18650 cell on that? I'd assume those cheap drivers aren't flat regulated as well?
 

EngrPaul

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Looks like the host could be decent but that 5-mode drive just kills it. But I agree that definitely should give over 300 lumens. What's the current draw from the 18650 cell on that? I'd assume those cheap drivers aren't flat regulated as well?

In my review, I gave the tailcap current measurements.

HI = 1.25A
MED = 0.80 A
LO = 0.40 A

I might do a runtime soon.
 

LEDninja

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In my review, I gave the tailcap current measurements.

HI = 1.25A
MED = 0.80 A
LO = 0.40 A

I might do a runtime soon.
How fresh are your batteries? Most of the 1st gen 1*18650 P7 lights get ~2.2A with fresh batteries. I get 2.1A dropping to 1.7A fairly quickly with my MTE P7.

HI = 1.25A or 0.315A per die. That should give 100 lm per die or 400 lm at the emitter. Looks like it has a very throwy reflector from the beamshots at CPFMP.
Reference:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2170040&postcount=141
 

Dead_Nuts

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I don't think it will be long before many 300+ lumen lights are out there. This is child's play for the P7. It just seems like the emitter is physically too large to focus to a narrow beam without a sizable reflector. But that wasn't the question. The total output (lumens) is easily attainable with current technology and manufacturing techniques.
 

EngrPaul

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How fresh are your batteries? Most of the 1st gen 1*18650 P7 lights get ~2.2A with fresh batteries. I get 2.1A dropping to 1.7A fairly quickly with my MTE P7.

HI = 1.25A or 0.315A per die. That should give 100 lm per die or 400 lm at the emitter. Looks like it has a very throwy reflector from the beamshots at CPFMP.
Reference:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2170040&postcount=141


I pulled a fresh AW 18650 2200mA*h cell, which I had charged yesterday on a Pila IBC charger. I just got my 18650's about a week ago from 4sevens.

The current matches the specs on the sales page for this light.

This and other information can be found here:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=183922
 

StarHalo

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The best deal for less than $100 has to be a maglite with a terralux tle-300.

+1, My 2D Mag with the TLE-300 AND the battery adapters AND the batteries came in at just over $100.

I would be leery of buying any light claiming over 200 lumens. They are usually too hot to hold in extended use and the LEDs burn out from the overdriving.

The TerraLUX TLE-300 has been verified by multiple sources to output ~600 lumens initial, ~500 lumens through regulation. I drive mine at 9V and use a UCL lens, and the 600 lumen figure is without question entirely reasonable. The drop-in uses the entire head assembly of the Mag as a heatsink, so it never gets beyond slightly warm.
 

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