Superglue on flashlight!!

I superglued a clip onto my D10 because i got sick of waiting for the real one to come out. Well today I was working on the tractor and when I got back to the barn I did my post work inspection of the tractor and found my D10 clipless.....needless to say theres alot of super glue still stuck on the light, tryed scraping it off with my finger nails but didnt get all of it off.

I guess my real question is will using some goof off or assitone ruin the finish on the light? If so what can i use on type III anno....

As you stated acetone is superglue's enemy and should soften it right up. I don't think it will hurt the finish but you can always test a very small spot with a small amount first.

Is the interior of the D10 anodized? If so, that's where I would try acetone. Especially with a PD system.

Acetone will not hurt HAIII at all. I have used it to clean up lights a lot. That and a brass brush work great. Any lasering will become "dull" and not nice and white though.

Same advice here!
Does not hurt a thing. Have at it man. Clean that puppy.

Thanks for the quick replys, I was pretty worried there for a miniute....more like an hour =]

:laughing: Keep the superglue away from your lights!

Try Devcon 2-ton epoxy @ Walmart.

Be glad you lost the clip and not the light!

Yes Im rather happy the light stayed with me and not with the clip which probably got ran over at least a dozen times when going back and forth to the barn (just guessing, I havent found the clip).....ahhhh now I need a new clip =[

You shoulda had your stepbrother torture test the glue job first.

:laughing:

SnWnMe said:

You shoulda had your stepbrother torture test the glue job first.

Click to expand...

SnWnMe said:

You shoulda had your stepbrother torture test the glue job first.

Click to expand...

Thats not even funny =] ok yea it is but still lol. Well I had a great idea heres how it went "the flashlights waterproof so no assitone will get in the electronics" and then I proceded to sit D10 in a glass with a half inch or so of assitone in it. I let it set there for half hour before realises that orings are rubber and assitone eats rubber. I go tearin through the house to the D10 and disassemble superduper quick......nothing wrong with it all the orings are fine......that was a nice suprise.

The forum idiot,
Nemo

Geez man, dedicated to destruction!? The O-rings must of been well lubed, good job on that part anyway.

The O-rings must be silicone or something......

Seems like your place is a light's worst nightmare! If your evil step-brother doesn't get 'em, you do!







Glad your light is OK.

superglue isn't waterproof , in fact I have had it on my fingers and washed it off with water and soap while rubbing it. If you want waterproof you need to use epoxy instead.

Lynx_Arc said:

superglue isn't waterproof , in fact I have had it on my fingers and washed it off with water and soap while rubbing it. If you want waterproof you need to use epoxy instead.

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Water is not a solvent at all for CA glues. I think what you experienced is the glue bonds breaking (they're not as flexible as your skin), combined with abrasion from the soap and rubbing resulting in the glue losing its bond with your skin.

Low shear resistance is the problem with CA glues. They're extremely water resistant.

http://www.supergluecorp.com/removingsuperglue.html

# Glass
Standard Super Glue is not recommended to be used for glass bonding applications. If bonded, soak in water until parts come apart.

Skin
Immerse bonded areas in warm, soapy water. Peel or roll skin apart; a spatula or teaspoon handle or even a pencil will help. Remove cured adhesive with warm, soapy water (may take several applications). Fingernail polish remover with an acetone base has also been successful for removal of cured adhesive from skin.

GEEZ Nemo!! What are you doing to that D10 I sold you!!:mecry:If this keeps up I may have to demand you send it back!!

As a temporary solution you can use a split ring in one of the holes on the tail and run some paracord thru it then attach a carabiner clip to the other end. Clip the Carabiner to a belt loop and you can hang the lite down into your pocket. If you get the length right and use the correct belt loop the light will tuck right into the outside edge of the pocket and yu will barely know it is there. When needed just pull it out via the paracord and quick detach the carabiner clip or leave it clipped for added security if you are Out In the Field working. The split wring will eventually start to take some of the HA finish off on the edges of the hole . Paracord with the "guts" removed will fit thru the hole with a bit of effort, I find using a piece of the guts of the paracord tied to the end of the gutted paracord allows one to pull it thru the small hole .


I have gone thru many of the "ideas" like what you have tried. I have found superglue to be pretty much useless for most things especially something EDC. Something like a clip takes alot of abuse on a daily basis. If it isnt screwed or welded on or something its gonna come off. Even Epoxy wouldnt hold up . Smooth surfaces with no joints give the epoxy/superglue nothing to "hold onto" and the glue itself can be "brittle"
I have actually found this method quite functional for EDC to the point of not needing a clip anymore.

Your experience with Super Glue is similar to my own. I've never found anything that stuff really works on except fingers! I use several varieties of epoxy, and it usually does a great job.