KL1Rs with McTC McE2S

I just received the described light from a sale from CPF member Brizzler, he did the mod, i got attracted to the light first on the looks, then i started reading more about KL1R mods and since i always wanted an L1 safe to use with AW rechargeables, this was it, at first i was a bit reluctant to buy because as well priced as i think the light is, i dont have much to spend, but this was sure worth it, brizzler work is great!, he should sell these more often.

I dont know why KL1R mods arent more popular, must be the price for the parts and the fact that its an out of production head, but having the versatility to use from 1 CR123 up to 9V is definitely a huge plus. This added to the 2 stage switch with a good low and good high with L1 UI made this irresistible.

well here is what i did the thread for :


KL1 McR20s SSC P4 U bin E1L body McTC McE2S

Nice, I'll have mine ready in maybe a week. Depends on when the McE2s parts come in...

How do you like it?

Overall a definitive i like!

pros:

-UI
-Output is good, low as well as high, Brizz made a good choice on low
-Size, fits good in the hand with the McTC
-Versatility of cell use, finally rechargeable 123 not out of spec!
-The floody beam is beautiful, McR20s reflector is great!
-Very solid
-Good looking

cons:

-The McE2S is a bit hard to press, way harder than the L1 switch which spoiled me.
-the grip for the twist is insufficient, for 2 reasons: the flutes arent enough, knurling would be better, the grip part is too close to the clip; however i think the oring is making too much friction against the McTC. i just use the top part of the McTC to twist, its in a much better position, at least for the way i hold the light, and the clip issue, the slots in the top part help the grip, and its a kinda good solution.

i know its a lot of words on the cons, but its just all about one issue, overall i am really happy with the light, and i recommend KL1 mods, how is yours going? im already saving money to buy another KL1 head and a SSC P4 U2 bin to mod myself but keeping the optics for throw

had to put a yellow trit in the clip:



Gunga how is the mod going?, the McE2S is a bit stiff, there is a thread in the McGizmo forum, read it if the switch bothers you in that way, there are some good recommendations on how to tweak it.

I have been using the KL1Rs with the McClicky switch for over 2 years as my EDC.
Not the looking for a paper clip under my office chair EDC , but bang the crap out of it, dropping it off of 12 foot ladders EDC. Still works like a champ. The SSC P4 with the McR20 is fantastic.

(Don't go for the U2 P4, the U2 Bins have a white hotspot with a yellow corona. Look for the first generation, for a much better beam)

Some other Good Points:
-With the McClicky tail cap, you can tail stand in drop ceilings and it puts out plenty of light to see your work.
-The clip on the E1L Body is perfect for clipping to my hat to use as a head lamp, it was not designed for pocket use.

Cons (For me anyway)
-Run time on the RCR123 is about 40 min, then pitch black. Using Cr123 cells avoids the sudden darkness but they are not as nice as rechargeable's.
I have a 2 cell charger set up in my van and i Cycle 3 cells, so I always have 2 fresh cells ready to go.

This is one tough light, and its been the best EDC Ive ever used.

Surefire toughness with McGizmo Beam awesome-ness

Hope you enjoy your light! This is the light that proved to me a light gets better the more you ding it up!!

-Bobby

Nakahoshi: great to see one EXACTLY like mine holding up so good through time with good and rough use, hard to beat a surefire for an aluminum host, you should put a tritium there, its really helpful, you dont even have to look for the light in the dark, its the first thing you will see.

have you tried an L1 switch?, i wish the McE2s worked like that one, its way easier, specially if you have situations were you need to be in a position of poor balance, or if you have to hold the momentary for long periods, i know i could just twist but it has happened to me that im doing a task like holding a delicate piece or part and lighting with one hand, and it took me longer to position that part than i expected, in that sense the L1 switch is leagues better, also its too easy to go from momentary low to high, and ruin you night vision, or bother others accidentaly, a bit of a longer travel but with less resistance would be perfect for me, this switch opens up a great UI, but is there any tweak or another choice that works more like the one on the L1?

Never used an L1 (Or its switch for that matter). In my line of work I have no need for a lower momentary. Its either full blast or nothing.

I was never a fan of the McGizmo 2 Stage tail caps, They were always really hard to activate and required 2 hands. Using the McClicky switch with acquired silicone boot makes activation smooth and consistent.

I remember reading awhile back you can make a 2 stage tailcap using the stock L4/E1/2L Tailcap. Twist for on and click for high or low.

-Bobby

nakahoshi said:

Never used an L1 (Or its switch for that matter). In my line of work I have no need for a lower momentary. Its either full blast or nothing.

Click to expand...

Thats the beauty of the L1 tailcap, you can have a 1st reaction push all the way and its like the low doesnt exist, and it has a very soft push.

thats one of the reasons many people like it, for me its an almost perfect 2 stage UI, because you can use high like low doesnt exist and viceversa.

I might have to check out an L1 and pick up a Mule head, might be a cheap way to try that out:thumbsup:

Mod is mostly done.

I have a Novatac AR coated Polycarbonate lense, McR20s Refector, U2SVOH (don't mind the yellow corona) emitter, all in place.

I have a McClicky tail cap on too, but am waiting for some McE2s parts to come in so I can have a low mode (which I do use). I want a long runnning low mode to make this complete!

I will have to find a standard Aleph tailcap somewhere because I don't think I like the McClicky as a twisty.

Will post pix at some point...

What about the sandwich shoppe?

Im finding the McTC uncomfortable to twist one handed too, the fluted part of it is too close to the clip, and slippery, i mostly use the top part but the slots up there barely make a grip, knurling would be great, i dont know if the shoppe ships international but i have been eyeballing exactly the same item you are looking for, the aleph trim tailcap but also the flat top.

They seem to be out of stock.

If they have any, you can order internationally.

I emailed them, so can let you know when they respond...

that would be really nice Gunga, thanks!

nakahoshi said:

-Run time on the RCR123 is about 40 min, then pitch black. Using Cr123 cells avoids the sudden darkness but they are not as nice as rechargeable's.

Click to expand...

That's why I just ordered some of AW's new IMR16340 cells. They are rechargeable but do not have the protection circuit that kills a light when the voltage drops too low. These new cells are supposed to be able to handle it better if you discharge them too far. With these new cells, I get to chose when to shut off the light and swap the cells. If I'm in a tight spot and the light seems to be dimming, I don't want a protection circuit putting me in the dark.

i have been looking at them too, but i may have wrongfully assumed they would offer a lower runtime compared to the protected black label because of their lower capacity.

I'm also considering these cells. Would love some input from anyone with experience.

I also have some LIFEP04 cells from AW, but I know these have lower capacity...

I have 6 on there way to me now. When they get here I'll run some graphs with my West Mountain CBA II and compare them to my other RCR123 cells.

Only just spotted this thread! :thumbsup:
My former EDC getting some serious exposure, halfway across the world from where I am! Makes me almost nostalgic... Glad you like the light so much!!

hey Brizz!, after tweaking the McE2s a bit, i found you put a washer between the screw and the main body, a part that isnt there by default, do you prefer a harder button to prevent accidental high mode activation?

taking off that washer made almost nothing but on first impression its a bit easier toget to high, also, taking out the retaining oring helped a little but i think adding a washer between the pcb and the main body as noted on CY´s tweaking thread should yield me better results, if that works good i will just sand down a little bit of the stem on the main body.

its better now but still too stiff, tomorrow i wil try the washer thing/sanding

not back from work yet but after taking a good look and comparing stuff, the main spring is one of the reasons the push is uncomfortable:

its stiff
it has a small diameter
the angle that forms the cone is to steep

i think it would be better this way:

bigger diameter
dont make it a cone, start with a cyllinder and then reduce the tip size thats all

for now i guess i will be looking at a spring like that to give it a try, the way it is now it requires an uncomforable amount of force to use, and its stiffness is always fighting to go back into position making it really bad to hold high for a large amount of time.

hair trigger model would be a no since it would be too easy to accidentally activate high mode.