Fenix upgrade

reloader45

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Oct 16, 2008
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Germany
Hallo,

I am new in this forum, so first greetings from Germany.
I have two Fenix flashlights, a P1D-CE and a L2D-CE.
I bought them, when they were quite new on the market.
So I think, there are only Cree P3 inside.
Is there any way to unsrew this flashlights without damage?
Is it possible to replace the LED with normal tools?
Thank you for every information.

reloader45
 

Monkeyboab

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Jan 5, 2008
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Scotland
I just used strap wrenches to open up my L2D CE I used a small knife to lift the Led off the pill after id unsoldered the wires. I then scraped off the remaining thermal adhesive ready for new Led. I then put in a Q5 with Artic alumina and soldered it in place. Screwed it back together jop done:naughty:

:welcome:

Rob
 

Marduke

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Jun 19, 2007
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Huntsville, AL
They are at least a Cree P4. Swapping out the LED involves taking the head apart, removing the old LED, glueing a new one down with something like Artic alumina, and soldering the new LED in place electrically.

Personally I don't think chasing after the latest bin will gain you all that much. It will only be slightly brighter. To make a noticeable difference, you would have to double the brightness of a light, and that sort of upgrade can't be done to the L2D or P1D without totally gutting it.
 

reloader45

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Oct 16, 2008
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Germany
Sorry,

it is my mistake, it is a L1D-CE. I can not see where to unscrew the head of this flashlight. Is it the first groove of the head, looking from the head side?
If there is is a P4 inside, the difference to a Q5 will be little.

reloader 45
 

Monkeyboab

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Jan 5, 2008
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If you come from the front of the head(lens end) it the first grove, the strap wrench and a good twist. Made a not bad difference in brightness and also a whiter tint, the L2D is current regulated so there is an increase but the Q5 might have hight Vf so runtime might suffer? Not 100% on this though. You could always get yourself an L2D body for it and boost the brightness the way.

Rob
 
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reloader45

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Oct 16, 2008
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Germany
Hallo Monkeboab,

thank you for your information.
My L1D is modded.
I used my lathe to increase the inner diameter of the body and I built an isolated batterie extension. Now this lamp can stand CR 123 batteries.
This improves the brightness in the turbo mode drastically.

reloader 45
 

riversedge

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Apr 11, 2006
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Hallo Monkeboab,

thank you for your information.
My L1D is modded.
I used my lathe to increase the inner diameter of the body and I built an isolated batterie extension. Now this lamp can stand CR 123 batteries.
This improves the brightness in the turbo mode drastically.

reloader 45
Why didn't you just buy a P1D body for it?
 

reloader45

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Oct 16, 2008
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Germany
Hallo riversedge,

I didn`t bought a P1D body, because I own a P1D-CE.
Later, I thougt it would be a good idea to have a little flashlight driven with a AA batterie, so I bought the L1D.
The modded L1D will run with AA Alkalaline batteries and also with CR123 A batteries.
You must know, that the price for CR123's were very high in Germany, but know, with the help of the Internet and chinese dealer, the price became acceptable.

reloader 45
 

HKJ

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Mar 26, 2008
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Copenhagen, Denmark
at the price for CR123's were very high in Germany, but know, with the help of the Internet and chinese dealer, the price became acceptable.

It is not a good idea to buy CR123 in China, they have a rather high explosion risk.
In Europe your can get quality (Surefire/Panasonic/etc.) CR123 for 2-3 euro.
 

reloader45

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Oct 16, 2008
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Germany
Success,

I opened my P1D without damage, and yes it was glued.
First step, a little heat to the head with a propane torch.
Then I fixed the head in the tree- jaw chuck of my lathe with a thin lead foil between the head and the chuck.
With a lead foil on the threads of the head I used a gripper to unscrew the head.
Now I can see the glued Cree LED.
Next, I will unsolder the LED and try to get it out. With a little help of my lathe, I will remove the glue residues and then mount the new Q5 or whatever comes next.
Now I have to order some Cree's and a thermal conducting glue.
When this job is finished, I will try to mod the L1D.

To HJK: I normally buy Panasonic batteries for < 2 euro.

Reloader 45
 

Per Arne

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May 15, 2006
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276
Location
Norway
Hi,

I was just wondering if it would be possible to upgrade the Red Fenix L0D 3W White Luxeon LED with an Q5 or R2 and make it a one-level output only?

The light would be a backup-backup light if my other lights fails :eek:
and it has to be an KISS-light :naughty: with 30+ lumens (flooding 2-4 meters) and 2+ hours runtime...

Who would you recommend sending the light to?

Thank you for your help :)

PA
 

Henk_Lu

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Oct 31, 2007
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2,008
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Golden Cage
It is not a good idea to buy CR123 in China, they have a rather high explosion risk.
In Europe your can get quality (Surefire/Panasonic/etc.) CR123 for 2-3 euro.

At qualityflashlights.at you get CYTAC cells (1300 mAH) for 1,39 €. According to their tests, they had only a little difference in runtime compared to Varta quality lights : 52 minutes for the Varta and 48 minutes for the Cytac (don't know in which light).

I never had problems with those cells, just the opposite : My PD30 started the low battery warning when I violently shaked it with the Varta cells, but it runs flawlessly with the Cytac, I guess, they are just a little bit larger that prevents the rattling of the cells. :tinfoil:
 

rockz4532

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Sep 7, 2008
Messages
760
Location
St. Louis, MO
Hi,

I was just wondering if it would be possible to upgrade the Red Fenix L0D 3W White Luxeon LED with an Q5 or R2 and make it a one-level output only?

The light would be a backup-backup light if my other lights fails :eek:
and it has to be an KISS-light :naughty: with 30+ lumens (flooding 2-4 meters) and 2+ hours runtime...

Who would you recommend sending the light to?

Thank you for your help :)

PA
30 lumens from a Q5? more like 200!, but if your using alkalines, i understand that.
 
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