Lighthound tactical bezel won't work properly with C2-HA + Malkoff

kindred_spirits

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I just received 2 Surefire C2-HA's today. I dropped in a Malkoff M60L and swapped the LOTC with a SF HA clicky. Worked great.

Then I swapped on the Lighthound stainless steel crenelated bezel. Won't work, unless I hit it against my palm. It does work well with the stock P60 lamp though. What could the problem be? Happens with both the M60 and M60L. I noticed that there is no gap when I use the Lighthound bezel, but with the stock HA bezel there is a small gap. Has anybody else experienced this?
 

bullfrog

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Hmmm - just tried my lighthound SS bezel with my M60L in both mu G2 and C2 and it works fine.

Sounds like a simple contact issue - try pulling the spring of the M60 just a LITTLE bit so its a tad longer and that should do the trick.
 
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bullfrog

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The M60 just sits a little too high in the C2 - pull the spring a tad and I pretty much guarantee it will work. Just don't pull it too much as you dont want to weaken the wire. 0.5 mm should be enough.
 

kindred_spirits

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The M60 just sits a little too high in the C2 - pull the spring a tad and I pretty much guarantee it will work. Just don't pull it too much as you dont want to weaken the wire. 0.5 mm should be enough.

Gave it a try. It still works intermittently. It still works with the stock bezel though. I guess I'll just have to stick to the stock C2 Bezel. I wish they made a defender bezel in HA...
 
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bullfrog

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Gave it a try. It still works intermittently. It still works with the stock bezel though. I guess I'll just have to stick to the stock C2 Bezel. I wish they made a defend bezel in HA...

Have you tried cleaning the battery where the spring makes contact? Or tried a different battery? :thinking:
 

MrGman

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If you had battery magnets from Lighthound you could put 1 or 2 between you batteries and move them up to get better contact. Next choice is to get a glow in the dark O-ring and put it in front of the Malkoff LED module just behind the bezel. The M60 is just a little bit loose inside the collar of the C2 and isn't pressing back enough to keep good contact. The O-Ring would press the module back. The battery magnets would probably work better, 15 cents each on LH.com.
 

Sgt. LED

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Make a simple ring of wire and drop it into the socket first.
Make a big enough piece to that you have to push it in there.
Trim it so it does not overlap.
Fix that intermittant negative path problem.

I use notebook wire.
 

labrat

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I just received 2 Surefire C2-HA's today. I dropped in a Malkoff M60L and swapped the LOTC with a SF HA clicky. Worked great.

Then I swapped on the Lighthound stainless steel crenelated bezel. Won't work, unless I hit it against my palm. It does work well with the stock P60 lamp though. What could the problem be? Happens with both the M60 and M60L. I noticed that there is no gap when I use the Lighthound bezel, but with the stock HA bezel there is a small gap. Has anybody else experienced this?

The stock P60 LA has an outer spring?
And the Malkoff M60L don't?
As said in the above post, the negative path is broken, the lover part of the body of the Malkoff is not screwed tight down on the lip of the battery tube (there is no gap, as you also noticed).
So a metal shim, or a ring made of stripped copper wire the size of the lip of the battery tube, put between the lower part of the Malkoff and the battery tube when you mount the bezel on the tube.
And you should have the electric path restored!
Fivemega is shipping his FM-D26 Bi-Pin socket/Reflector with such a shim, and I have to use them with all my bodies when using these adaptors.
 

txgp17

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Oct 23, 2007
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Has anybody else experienced this?
I did.

I found that the LH head was bottoming out on the SF body before the Malkoff was firmly wedged into place, thereby not making a good connection.

My solution was to cut a small gasket out of a cereal/cracker box, and put it between the Malkoff and the bezel of the LH head.

Cut out a small sheet of thin cardboard, then place the face of the Malkoff on the unprinted side. Draw a tight circle around the Malkoff, then cut it out. Now take a hole puncher, and cut out the center. It will take some time to clean it up properly, but with a little patience, and some careful use of the hole puncher, a nice gasket can be made.
 
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