Streamlight 4AA added resistor

robk

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A while back there was a discussion about Streamlight 4AA's running the 7 LEDs straight from 4 AA cells. I had one of those, ran a little warm and was a bit bluish. I ordered another as a gift, and of course I had to get another for myself (in Olive Drab). They added a 1 ohm resistor in the head as can be seen in the photo. It reduces the brightness a tiny bit, but seems to improve the color. Just thought someone may be interested. BTW, the new one was boxed, the older one was blister-packed.
4aa_resistor.jpg
 

JohnK

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I purchased seven 4AA's in November 2002, all had that added resistor, in addition to a tiny one for each LED. This is one BRIGHT sucker. It is too bright for a potty light if you want to remain dark adapted. I use my Infinity Ultra G for that purpose.

It is amazing how dim some of these lights appear in almost any ambient light; but pop them on in true darkness, and they really light up the place.
 

shankus

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[ QUOTE ]
robk said:
They added a 1 ohm resistor in the head as can be seen in the photo... Just thought someone may be interested.

[/ QUOTE ]
We're always interested in details, especially details with photos. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
I have one of these on my list, as well as the Propolymer 3C. I want two 3Cs, one for each toolbox, as a primary light. The 4AA I think will a coat pocket or, around the house light.
 

Steve Andrews

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I love my 4AA 7 LED.. I'm a firefighter and the light has really proved its worth. We get issued Gallet helmet-mounted, Xenon bulbed, UK4AA's but I bought my own Streamlight for its great "personal floodlight" characteristics. It fits in a uk4aa helmet mount that I modified. The other night my watch attended a furze fire in a remote local area. After a couple of hours everyone's UK4AA's were either dead or producing a dull yellow light. My 4AA 7 LED was still punching out loads of lovely white light.
My mate's uk4aa had died and he had to use the Inretech-adapted MiniMag that I procured for him to find his way back down the hill.
 

DougNel

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I have the 4AA 7LED and like it a lot. When I bought it I had an email conversation with Streamlight about how the old and new versions differed. I am exerpting from the replies I got to post the following information:



"The first units had 12 ohm resistors in series with the LEDs (7 resistors, one for each LED). The 12 ohm resistors, visible through the opening in the side, are color coded BROWN, RED, BLACK, GOLD.


There was then an interim fix which added a large one ohm resistor to the back of the housing.


The current production assemblies do not have the external resistor and the internal ones have been changed to 22 ohms. These are color coded RED, RED, BLACK, GOLD.


You can probably identify which assembly you have by looking at the color codes on the resistors. Unfortunately there isn't a whole lot of visible difference between the shade of brown used in the old ones and the new red, so you need to take a really good look.


There is little to no apparent difference in intensity of any of the three versions. LEDs unfortunately have a very large range in the amount of current they draw as part of their normal manufacturing process, and the original values were chosen using LEDs of the lower current end of the range. This caused the ones that drew higher current
to be driven too hard. They not only were failing because of heat, but were no brighter than ones operating correctly.


If operated continuously, it is normal for the 4AA LED to get just as warm as the Xenon version when the batteries are fresh. If you do have any problems, please contact us; we have a very good warranty policy on our products."

"To answer your actual question, it's a much better product with the new resistor value. On the curve I'm attaching, the old value starts at 120 mils per LED and the bottom drops out of the cells at about 5-1/2 hours,
after which you get that anemic LED run forever time.


With the new value, it starts at 90 mils (you can't tell the difference in output because at 120 the LEDs were saturated and perhaps even backing off in output) and goes down smoothly. The curves cross at 4-1/4 hours and after that the lower value gives more output for a LONG
time. We didn't bother to do an actual end of life run with the new value, just kept the original claim.
There's so much variation in the LEDs, along with different makes or production dates of alkaline batteries, that it's really impossible to give an accurate end of run time figure. They actually run a lot longer than whatever our claim is. At the end of our claimed run time you can still read a newspaper at arms length or see your shoes well enough not to trip over obstacles in your path.


There's maybe a 20 mil difference in the actual current the LEDs draw. The graph is close to worst case (hottest). Some of the 12 ohm assemblies (like the ones we tested before we started shipping them!) are close to the 22 ohm curve and work well."



I don't have the facility to attach the graph they sent. I can email it to anyone who is interested............. Anyway, a very good light!
 

robk

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Near Daytona Beach, FL
I wonder if they would replace my old 4AA (12 ohm resistors) and no interim fix for a new one with 22 ohm individual resistors for a long runtime?
Rob
 

eluminator

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I guess they would. I know of one that was replaced. He left his on for 30 minutes and the reflector melted. I doubt if you would have to do that. They are aware the early ones are defective. I don't think I will bother. I use three alkalines and one dummy cell. I only get 30 ma per LED though.

I'm surprised the new ones use 90 ma per LED. They must be very bright. I would have guessed the LEDs would be damaged, but apparently they are tougher than I thought.
 

The_LED_Museum

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[ QUOTE ]
DougNel said:
The current production assemblies do not have the external resistor and the internal ones have been changed to 22 ohms. These are color coded RED, RED, BLACK, GOLD.

[/ QUOTE ]

I just checked mine, and it definitely has 22 ohm resistors hooked up to each LED, and no "external" resistor at the bottom of the module. And it's plenty bright to shine into corners, under desks, behind toliets, and other places even with good light already coming from a window or from light globes on walls & ceilings.

I got mine earlier this month, so I haven't really had a chance to fully test it yet.
My early review is here if you want to take a look at it.
 

Doug S

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This resistor issue has been discussed in a few other threads. Below are some comments I made back in Feb:

[ QUOTE ]
Doug S said:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Originally posted by JohnK:
<strong>No numbers; it has red/black/gold/space/gold rings on it. It is .358" in length, and .142 in diameter (from my micrometer caliper).It is wired in on the opposite side from your pic behind the lower V shaped protrusion. Wiring goes to negative battery contact
on one side, the other through a small hole in the bottom center of the assembly.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">That is two ohms. It looks like Streamlight is slowly wising up to how grossly overdriven this design is. First there was no added resistor on the bottom of the module. Next they started shipping them with a 1 ohm resistor on the bottom. Now they apparently are shipping them with a 2 ohm resistor added. I would suspect that the added resistors are a temporary fix until they use up all of their stock of modules where the individual LED resistors are 12 ohms each. Ultimately I would expect them to eliminate the resistor on the bottom and increase the value of the individual small resistors. Changing the small resistors to 26 ohms each and eliminating the 2 ohm one on the bottom would be an equivalent arrangement.

[/ QUOTE ]

The associated thread is:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB3&Number=84448&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1
 
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