KL4 + MC-E = stooopid bright!

I just got three MC-Es in the mail from Endeavour and already put one to good use.
This wasn't that hard to do actually, anyway on to the pics & beamshots.



Oh yeah! First one on the block.





Stock on left, unspeakable awsomeness on right.

I don't know what else to say, so please ask questions.:twothumbs

Really cool mod. I've been thinking of doing something similar. If only Endeavor's int'l shipping didn't cost as much as the MC-E itself, I'd have ordered a couple.

Questions? Of course. How's the beam compared to a stock KL4? Your beamshot makes it look like there's more hotspot compared to flood vs the stock KL4 beam. Is it the same wall of light pattern with mostly flood, except brighter? Did you have to mod the reflector? Are you running it in 2S2P config and using the stock KL4 circuit? I haven't opened up a KL4 before so I don't know what the shape of the heatsink is, but did you have to mod the heatsink to fit the MC-E? I've modded a KL1 before and no way could you fit that square base MC-E into the opening in the heatsink but like I said, I don't know what a KL4 heatsink looks like.

1. I think the beam is similar enough to please wall-of-light fans (I too love the stock beam), but it does have artifacts. Did you notice the beamshot isn't perfectly round? If you saw me shine a wall with it, you might say the hot spot looked...blotchy...but not enough to bug a guy under normal use.

2. Carving on the reflector:
In order to get the rather blocky LED body to fit snugly against the reflector opening, I had to Dremel some obstructions...I'll let the pic do the talking.



3. The wiring and circiut is as you say.

4. Some KL4 heatsinks are flat (like mine)
others have a slight depression. Either way you'll need a copper spacer to push it far enough into the reflector. If I had to guess, the copper I used was about .043" thick.

how is the heat output compared to the stock KL4?

I might want one of these if your gonna mod a couple

I don't see a donut-hole, so the stock reflector must work ok with that emitter.

I've been thinking about putting an MC-E in one of my Surefire L5's but they both already have Seoul P4's and I like them so much I hate to tear into them.

Thanks for the beamshot!

Illum the nation:
With driver PCB being stock, I expected everything other than output to stay the same. Strangely though, it doesn't get THAT hot, more like a Milky mod: warm but not irritating.

You want one? Such exellent taste!
I wish I could help, I'm waiting on bigger, better emitters from cutter...AND I'm due to leave the civilized world soon, I have no idea when. =o[

Greg G:
This is entirely speculation, but I'm guessing whatever's driving a P4 wont have the bawls to drive an MC-E the same way a Surefire Lux-V driver will.
You might want get with Milkyspit or someone else who really knows thier curcuits to find the truth of the matter.
AND to find the right driver (if you need one)...Milky probably has a pile of discarded Lux-V drivers.

Nice work, Aaron. :thumbsup:

Stock VS modded beamshot added

What is the distance on those beamshots?

Very nice modding, Aaron.

Cool!

How is the tint? looks yellowish in the pics.

I was checking these out last night, might pick up one to stick in my U2.

Beamshot distance was about five feet.

The tint is very white, the stock KL4 is purple-ish and my cameras' auto white balance messed everything up.

If you want to do this mod or a U2 good and proper, you gotta bore out the reflector opening a little. Kinda like this light:



I don't think the U2 needs such a radical emitter placement change, but you WILL need to carve on the reflector if you want a really nice beam pattern.

What is the amp draw from the battery(s) at the highest level (6)?

Bill

I'm guessing it's drawing the same current as a stock Lux-V U2, but what the numbers are, I have no idea.
How would I test for it?

AaronM said:

I'm guessing it's drawing the same current as a stock Lux-V U2, but what the numbers are, I have no idea.
How would I test for it?

Click to expand...

Rotate the switch to the highest level, far right. Remove tailcap keeping the batteries in the body, and set the light on a table, head down. Using a DMM, place the DMM red probe plug in the 10 or 20 DC amp current fitting, and turn the DMM dial to the the 10 or 20 DC amp currant position. After doing that place the black probe tip on the back of the exposed battery and the red probe tip on the top of the exposed threaded section of the body. The light will come on at the level you set it, high. See the reading on the DMM.

Bill

can someone post a picture of the stock KL4 board with the LuxV still installed?

I just want to see how it looks.

What did you use to attack the Cree to the heatsink?

Bullzeyebill:
I got just a shade over an amp (1.03A) for the U2, and 0.87A for the KL4.

FredM:
The pic in post #3 says almost everything.
A Lux-V emitter in overall shape, looks like Seoul P4 (P4s with a little copper disc spacer are physically 'drop in' replacements for Luxeons, not necessarily electricaly though)
The spacer and emitter are stuck to the heatsink with Arctic Silver epoxy.
I'll try to get a pic of the stocker anyway.

Wow thats pretty low for current draw. Looks like the runtime will be either the same or even better.

Did you solder those by hand? Any advice? They seem so small I am thinking of using a hotplate.

I soldered everything by hand, with the help of a device I think is called a 'helping hand'.
Think of it as a weighted base with a pair articulated alligator clips on it, some even come with a movable magnifying glass.

AaronM said:

I soldered everything by hand, with the help of a device I think is called a 'helping hand'.
Think of it as a weighted base with a pair articulated alligator clips on it, some even come with a movable magnifying glass.

Click to expand...

I have two of those unopened. I need to get my iron out.

Bill

FredM said:

Bill

Did you solder those by hand? Any advice? They seem so small I am thinking of using a hotplate.

Click to expand...

You used two CR123's? That is actually sort of neat. Better output at about same wattage. This would work with one 18650. How is the output at the lower levels?

Bill