Quick E1B/E2DL Question
- Thread starter jstalford
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
Hogokansatsukan
Flashlight Enthusiast
The strike bezel on a E2DL is integral to the head. Does not unscrew.
Kilovolt
Flashlight Enthusiast
And the same is valid for E1B.
270winchester
Flashlight Enthusiast
you can use the E2DL head with an R123 on an E1B body. Gives out about 60-70 lumens or a little less than E1B.
270win, are you sure about those numbers? I've tried the swap and an RCR123-powered E2DL head seems to output more than a stock E1B.
Also, can't the front half of these heads be unscrewed, given enough heat and force? As I recall SF uses some type of glue.
I really would like to put the E1B front-half onto an E2DL back-half, and run it on an RCR.
Also, can't the front half of these heads be unscrewed, given enough heat and force? As I recall SF uses some type of glue.
I really would like to put the E1B front-half onto an E2DL back-half, and run it on an RCR.
Hogokansatsukan
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'm looking at my E2DL now, and if you can find a guy who can unscrew a solid piece of HAIII aluminum.... I want him in my unit!
cryhavok
Enlightened
The design of the E2DL/E1B/KX1/KX2 heads are all the same. You have the front outer shell which holds the optic and a lower shell that screws onto the flashlight body. Sandwiched in between those is a middle chunk of aluminum that has threads on both ends that holds the LED, driver board, and positive/negative contact plate for the battery. The threading/size of ALL of these components are compatible.
This means that if you really like the electronics of the E1B, but like the looks of the E2DL, you can just switch the middle "light engine" piece between the two. You could also just get away with switching the front outer shell (that holds the optic) and keeping the bottom parts intact.
It is sometimes very difficult to get the head apart, and you don't know if you are going to unscrew the front part from the middle light engine/lower shell OR if you are going to unscrew the lower shell from the middle light engine/front shell on the first go. From there, you can remove the middle piece from the remaining front/lower piece.
This means that if you really like the electronics of the E1B, but like the looks of the E2DL, you can just switch the middle "light engine" piece between the two. You could also just get away with switching the front outer shell (that holds the optic) and keeping the bottom parts intact.
It is sometimes very difficult to get the head apart, and you don't know if you are going to unscrew the front part from the middle light engine/lower shell OR if you are going to unscrew the lower shell from the middle light engine/front shell on the first go. From there, you can remove the middle piece from the remaining front/lower piece.
Last edited:
Let me clarify. There is no bezel "ring" on heads of the E1B or E2DL (or on KX1 and KX2 for that matter). But the head has two halves that one should be able to separate.
It's not that different from a gen4 KL1 head and we know those have been opened up and modded.
edit:
cryhavok has some fast fingers...
It's not that different from a gen4 KL1 head and we know those have been opened up and modded.
edit:
cryhavok has some fast fingers...
matt0
Enlightened
There are some pics in THIS THREAD to describe what cryhavok said.
Hogokansatsukan
Flashlight Enthusiast
I see. Well, I don't know if the optics will switch, but I still want the guy who can take this apart with his bare hands in my unit. Just tried myself
Perhaps boiling it first...
Perhaps boiling it first...270winchester
Flashlight Enthusiast
well, I am speaking from what I see my E2DL and 2 E1B head. But the two E1B heads have noticable difference in output so the LED lottery(Cree Lottery?) makes a difference too.
