Disclaimer:
tl;dr
Also, for comparison:
A 2AA Mag with fresh Alkalines puts out about 9 lumens
A 60 Watt incandescent light bulb is typically rated at around 700 lumens
Fenix and Nitecore's output claims are not directly comparable.
Wow.. you guys are impressive... I'll try my best to answer the questions...
Switch type: I guess it doesn't really matter. Should I care about this or is it a matter of personal preference (ie. do twist-switch lights have a tendency to leak)
Preference. Most torches we'd recommend have O-rings ahead of threads, and fall in the "dunkable" category of waterproof.
Twisty is self-explanatory.
Reverse-clicky are the kind that flip when you release (most Chinese ones, since that kind of switch is more reliable, physically smaller, and cheaper for a given cost).
Forward-clicky are the kind that flip when you press (C/D Maglite, FI); a tail-cap forward clicky switch is called a, "tactical switch," in marketing-speak.
Piston Drive (like the Nitecore D10) refers to having the battery tube inside the body, where you push the tube (and/or twist the head, doing the same thing) to operate.
Here's the D10 half-apart. It was invented by
some crazy guy who likes to take pictures of titanium objects under the ocean. :nana: It's generally physically harder to push than a switch in the tail.
Multimode: Yes. so I can save on power when I need to find my glasses in the tent and so I can go high power and find my glasses when I drop them in the woods or scare the crap out of a bear. I don't think that a strobe function is that important...
Nitecore's D10 will get really really low. Like a Mag incan 2AA after an hour, but with a nice beam, for a long time (1-3 days?). Fenix's LxD and LDx0 should give you about what the 2AA Mag offers with fresh batteries as the lowest, for something like 10-15 hours on Alkalines (actually much more efficient than the Nitecore, but possibly too bright for night-adapted eyes).
battery type: Preferably something that I can get in a store readily available (AA or AAA)... something that takes the larger batteries is a bit too large for EDC or thrown in a pack...
Beam pattern: nice blend of both
runtime requirements: something that doesn't die on high power after 20 minutes or so... I guess a multi function would be best here.
:hahaha::duck:
I had to.
Most of what you can find either under $50 or at least $60 (the dollar, and fuel costs, you know), that we'd recommend, will typically give you 10-20% of the visible light from a 60-watt light bulb for 1-4 hours (1-2 hours being typical for 1AA). You
will not be disappointed in the output you'll get.
I think Fenix and Nitecore offer the best overall value, and can be had at 4sevens.com. Use "CPF8" for 8% off
.
But see, there's batteries to be concerned with.
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/fenix_l1dce-l2dce.htm
An older Fenix Digital series review. See the Alkaline performance on medium, high, and max, those graphs? That will be typical of other torches, as well. As you can see, with regular use, NIMH is a sweet way to go. Meanwhile, if you use it lightly, but want high a lot, Lithium cells are quite cost-effective. Also, don't expect even that good of performance from dollar store type Alkalines (I'm fond of Dollar General AAs, at a quarter a piece). Great for remotes; bad for torches.
What size do you consider small enough for EDC: As I am a newbie, Ill use some old school comparisons. preferably something in the realm of mini mag lite or smaller...
again.. thank you in advance
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/209086
The D10 (recommended already) is in the first pic there, along with a Fenix L2D, and Mag mini.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/209470
Here you can see the D10 against current Fenixes. Go to post #15 for comparison shots that you can use against the D10 and L2D in the above Nitecore review link.
IMO, 1AA size, especially with NIMH cells, offers the best balance of easily available cells when you need them, total light output potential, good runtime on low modes, and ability to toss in a pack or pocket. 2AA comes next, with typically higher maximum output, and double or so low run times. You also tend to get bodies with varying diameter along their lengths, aiding in one-handed use.
Based on your requirements, and Fenix finally making good body designs, the Nitecore D10 and the Fenix LD10/LD20 (same head and tail, different body tube) are probably your best bets, or used, getting a Fenix L1D/L2D (IMO, the body design changes would be the worth the "new" cost, owning and regularly using a L2D-CE). If you're out camping, and have dark-adjusted eyes, though, the Nitecore has an edge. It is less efficient (see the ouput-matched run times in selfbuilt's D20 review), but has a very very low low mode. I find 5-10 lumens to be too bright when I walk around lit houses, with occasional street lamps.
I think both use equally good/poor user interfaces.
If, when you say camping, you mean having mostly moon light at night to work under, then get the Nitecore D10. If you will be in crappily-lit camp grounds, where you can't see because there' too much light for your eyes to go into night mode, go Fenix. If you're already friendly with NIMH, then just get the Nitecore and don't worry about it, since you won't be trashing the cells very often.
Now, if you're really not picky, Inova's X1 can be had for $21 at about any Target, and will give 10 or so lumens for 2-3 hours on NIMH or Lithium, with a gradual output drop for 1.5-3 hours on Alkaline (seems to vary a lot). I would worry that it sucks batteries too quickly (IE, Fenix's L1D and LD10 will put out about the same amount for well over 10 hours on Alkaline, and 20+ on LSD NIMH). Mine has never used anything but a 2500mAh NIMH. Built like a tank, 1AA, and with some of the worst electronics out there. The 2AA Bolt isn't bad, but by $30-40, you may as well go for multimode torches that get much brighter and much dimmer.
D10, L1D, and L2D torches have been popping up for $50 and under on the CPF Marketplace recently, so once you have an idea of what to go for, register there, and check out the lights sell forum regularly. If looking for used, be on the lookout for L1T 2.0 and L2T 2.0, as well (the 2.0 is kind of important for a good high mode). These had only low and high. Not having SOS or strobe, they were pretty popular, and don't seem to go up for sale as much as the D-series.
If it matters to you, the Nitecores have an optional pocket clip, and it will be included at some point (the D10 ones just got to 4sevens a day or two ago, so this is all new stuff).
FYI, you'll see P4, Q2, and Q5 pop up a lot. Cree XR-E LEDs use a letter+number code for brightness bin (think of processor speed; not all of them perform equally well, even being the same thing). Those three were widely available bright bins. Q5 is current, and brighter than Q2, which is brighter than P4, etc.. The ones in between didn't get tons of use. Easy enough. But, then, Seoul Semiconductor calls a whole series of current power LEDs P4! Argh! So when you see "SSC P4", or Seoul references, they are talking about those. Most cheaper torches that we talk about use Cree's XR-E, though.
When I started to organize it, I was taking it from a long ramble into an even longer essay, so be just be glad I stopped and hit submit
.
Good luck!
