Newbie Question

Hi I am Nicholas from singapore and a Newbie here. i would like to ask a stupid question.
I read on surefire website that their mno3 lamp is 60 lumens output for 75 minutes. does that means that i have to change the bulb every 75 min of run time? if not what is the actual time needed before i need to change the bulb?
same for the the Surefire L1 which stated 'Output/Runtime - High beam runtime approx. five hours with 15 lumens maximum output. Low beam runtime approx. 50 hours'
another thing is that which is better if i am considering either the 6p, g2, e2e or L1?

Thankyou

Welcome Nicholas!

No, you don't have to change the bulb. The runtime refers to how long a fresh set of batteries will last in the flashlight!

You'll need to replace the batteries every 75 minutes.

>>which is better

The rule here at CPF is "Buy them all!" That's what most folks do.

You're new. You'll learn. You'll also be spending a bunch of money on flashlights!

Buy yourself an E2e... Then add a KL1 to it later. It's a good start...

Welcome to the whacky world of the torchaholic!
Run time for a particular torch will depend very much on usage, temperature and battery type, as well as the "freshness" of the batteries.
The run time shown is usually the time taken for the torch's output to drop to a certain level after being left on constantly, which isn't the general way that they're used. Batteries in torches that are used intermittently could last much longer in total than those in torches used constantly, as they have a chance to recover.
If you need a torch that has a really long run time you need either a large torch or a torch with a lower power rating, or in the case of some of the torches now available, variable power rating.

when i buy the e2e or any other lights. what are the points to take note that the light is not a defect

I think that the MNO3 lasts 20 to 24 hours.

it needs to light up /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

i think you will notice any problems right away /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif it is highly unlikely that you will encounter any however...

thank you all for ur advice....but still thinking which to get. The e2e or the L1?

hey Nicholas, I just got my E2e today from Dan @ Tactical Warehouse, it's a very very nice flashlight /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif ALOT smaller than I expected, if you're not into the whole lamp thing you can always buy a KL1 head. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif good luck deciding!

I'd say grab the E2e. At least you can go back to 65 lumens if you want to switch from the KL1... You're essentially stuck with the KL1's output if you go the way of the Lumamax L1...

How bright is the E2e with KL1 compared to the Arc LS series?

The current Arc-LSs are brighter than the KL1s. Better color rendition as well... The Arc LSH-P is definately whiter and brighter, and throws much farther than an E2e/KL1 (goes without saying as it's a high dome compared to the KL1's low dome)...

got the E2e today but then relised that when i press the rubber button, the cap at the back (the one which when screw out houses the rubber button) moves in slighty. something like jerking or not a tight fit is it normal for the E2e?

I think the E2e/KL1 combination isn't that attractive unless you get the E2e to use the incandescent head and swap on the KL1 head sometimes. If you only want to use a KL1, put it on an E1e instead. But the E1e/KL1 isn't so great either, since the Arc LSH is a nicer light.

LED options for the E2e will get more interesting when the KL4 comes out. After that, maybe there will be no more point to the incandescent head, even the MN03.

Nicholas, if the tailcap wobbles, take it back and ask the dealer to swap it for a new one. Or better yet, get in touch with surefire customer service.
On my E2e, the threads fit *so* well, there is absolutely no wobble, or freeplay at either end of the flashlight.

How unscrewed have you unscrewed your TailCap?

If you're concerned about what I think you're concerned about then I don't think you need be concerned about it.
If you unscrew the E2e's LockOut TailCap from "constant-on" so that the light just switches off then push the TailCap (not the button) onto the body then it will switch on. This is due to the type of threads used and this play will happen on many such threaded tailcap switches. Like I say, I suggest you don't concern yourself with it. If it bugs you then get a Z57 Clickie TailCap when it's released as it is likely that you'll have it screwed all the way onto the body unless you lock it out.

Al