Any aftermarket P60LED dropins that will let you screw the head down all the way?

I haven't found any aftermarket P60 dropins that will let you screw the head down all the way like the Surefire module does. All the ones I've tried have a gap. I can't live with that at all. I'd rather have a spring making contact anyways, just more reliable and less hokey.

Does anyone know of one that does? I really like the design of the Surefire module, but I would like something a bit brighter.

The reasoning for the direct contact at the base is mostly to improve thermal contact to the body of the light. However, I think the design is also sort of a by-product of the longer module design associated with attempts to get deeper reflector designs and have room for electronics and stuff...

I'm thinking *maybe* the Wolf-Eyes LED modules would probably allow the bezel to seat all the way as they are sold with the option of including a "SF spring." Which to me translates to it needing the spring to make contact, which should translate to it tightening down all the way... You might have someone confirm this for you.

Yes, WE is a safe bet.

Thanks for the help. The dropin looks like the typical type that does not screw down, so I had assumed the spring option was for the Nitrolon bodies.

But it does look a little tapered at the end, so perhaps it does. Looks like they are about $64 + shipping, so it's a little expensive for me to try out though. That's over two boxes of primaries, that would keep me going for a long time with the old P60 incan.

Sgt. LED said:

Yes, WE is a safe bet.

Click to expand...

Do you have one of the dropins?

dereelight 3SD Q3-5A with outer spring drops in perfectly in a old-style finned M2 head and C2 body (run off by 17670 with SF beam diffuser, and SW02 tailcap for candlelight-standing mode when switched to low mode with diffuser on)...... no gap whatsoever

.

I've observed both gaps and no gaps for different combinations of SF flashlight bodies, bezels, and drop-ins. Basically, there appears to be enough manufacturing variance that it can be hard to predict with certainty whether or not you will have a gap.

The Z32 weaponlight bezel seems to be the most accommodating, probably due to the shock cushioning. I've not had any gap for DX6090, KD2363, and OpticsHQ/TLS drop-ins mounted in old-style SF 6P, 6Z, G2, and 3P.

Second most accommodating in my limited observations is the new-style SureFire 6P bezel (the one with the anti-roll flats).

No gap for a DX6090 in a old-style 6Z (DX6090 outer spring removed). Have to unscrew the pill slightly to make electrical ground contact. Big gap with the outer spring installed.

No gap for a DX6090 in a 3P (outer spring removed). Big gap with the outer spring installed.

Slight gap for a DX6090 (outer spring removed) in an old-style 6P. No gap if I use a new-style 6P bezel.

No gap for a DX6090 (outer spring removed) in a G2. Big gap with the outer spring installed.

No bezel gap for a DX6090 in a new-style 6P bezel screwed into a TNC E2C adapter. The E2C has a small gap between it and the L4 body.

Slight gap for the OpticsHQ/TLS drop-in (outer spring installed) in an old-style 6P using the original bezel. Gap is easily accommodated if you use a SF bezel lanyard ring. No gap for the OpticsHQ/TLS drop-in in an old-style 6P using a new-style 6P bezel.

just use a black o-ring to fill in the gap

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ampdude said:

Do you have one of the dropins?

Click to expand...

Yes I do.

I have had 3 in all but now I am left with 1 of the R2's.

Justin Case is right on the money. And, for what it's worth, my DX6090 fits in my G2 perfectly with no gap. Using an M60L leaves a very small gap that's hardly noticeable. No problem for me!

I have an old (P4) WE drop-in, and there's a very slight gap in an otherwise stock C2. It's only noticeably when compared to a P60L in the same host.

I think this "problem" is completely overblown. In some Surefire set-ups (like the current LU60A) there's nothing for the bottom of the bezel to contact.

THe single mode R2 drop in from dx allows this on my C2. Malkoffs dont normally screw all the way right down...at least mine doesnt. It doesnt leave a gap, but its not ALL the way down.

Crenshaw

I have this.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=20&t=394099


Screws all the way down no problem.

gswitter said:

I have an old (P4) WE drop-in, and there's a very slight gap in an otherwise stock C2. It's only noticeably when compared to a P60L in the same host.

Click to expand...

Interesting. My P4 WE drop-in has no gap in a G2.

A96Honda said:

I have this.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=20&t=394099

Screws all the way down no problem.

Click to expand...

This product is the same thing as the OpticsHQ/TLS LED drop-in and multifunction tailcap kit.

As I alluded to above, you need to specify the exact host since product variations can and do result in gaps for some and no gaps for others. For example, the drop-in for my TLS kit has a very small gap when installed in an original SureFire 6P (round body from ~1990). If I replace the original bezel with a current generation bezel (the one with the anti-roll flats), then there is no gap.

My G2 has a DX 1447 Cree P4 in it with outer spring removed there is no gap. My 6P has a Solarforce Q5 in it with outer spring removed there is no gap. Both are screwed all the way down like the original P60 incan lamps.

Does that mean that Malkoff Dropins do have that gap? oo:
Good that I didn't order one then.

bernie

You can adjust the DX drop ins to minimize the bezel gap in the 6P. I adjust mine for a ~.5mm bezel gap. Its small enough that you can only tell if you look closely (hosting an 11836)...




Others have filed off the end of the M60 to further minimize bezel gaps.

I think the TOP striker LED module uses a spring for the outer "-" contact, it therefore bottoms out the bezel with no gap.

well the current crop of aftermarket led modules will usually bottom down when the reflector is screwed all the way (but that kills the tight beam) and/or the LED BOARD is thin enough.
I assembled a module with a Dereelight module case (has longer brass pill) and a KD 15mm IIRC Q5 LED that is thinner. That alloed me to use a single 1.5mm thick o-ring.

The LED board height is a contributing factor too...

Also I have saved 2 X-Alpha modules for the future. These have deep pill cases to accept high boards AND will screw all the way down AND they are SF G2 compatile WITHOUT the spring.

I'm referring to drop-ins like the P60L that use a spring to make contact.

I'm not interested in models with small gaps because of the occasional variance in manufacturing tolerance. This seems really Mickey Mouse to me. When you loosen the head on all of these a little bit they turn off, I think that's pretty lame.

jbviau, the reason your G2 doesn't have a gap is because the drop-in goes past the metal insert inside the body. Check the metal and I'll bet you have a ring around the top showing where the drop-in slipped past it.