U2SVOH in Novatac? When?

I'm trying to find out when Novatac started using the U2SVOH emitters in their EDC120 lights. Is it possible to narrow down the time frame by serial number range?

How do you know they started using it? They refuse to release any info other than "it's U bin".

it did it on mine both with U2SVOH & U2Swoi.
nice - warm - brighter
so does my KL6 head

jzmtl said:

How do you know they started using it? They refuse to release any info other than "it's U bin".

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This is the only post in this thread that hasn't confused me.

AFAIK Novatac never listed the emitter used. Not even a U-bin was published. It was only confirmed in emails to some people.

tebore said:

This is the only post in this thread that hasn't confused me.

AFAIK Novatac never listed the emitter used. Not even a U-bin was published. It was only confirmed in emails to some people.

Click to expand...

I guess what threw me off was the posts about people getting the U2SVOH emitters in their 30000 serial numbered Novatacs and compared them to the older U2SWOI. I might have misunderstood those posts then.

On a side note, how complicated is the emitter swap procedure should I decide to do it myself? Is there a tutorial somewhere? I have a soldering workstation.

Maybe they are talking about replacing the emitter with u2svoh? I just did that a while ago.

As for how it's as easy as it gets. Unscrew the retainer ring from back of head and the pill falls out. Now just unsolder both lead, pull the emitter off, put new one in, and solder the two legs.

jzmtl said:

Maybe they are talking about replacing the emitter with u2svoh? I just did that a while ago.

As for how it's as easy as it gets. Unscrew the retainer ring from back of head and the pill falls out. Now just unsolder both lead, pull the emitter off, put new one in, and solder the two legs.

Click to expand...

That sounds straight forward. I think I can do that. But, do I have to align the LED or something, I mean, if the LED is a millimeter or two off from where it's supposed to be would that make a bid difference as far as beam shape or throw? Or is this step pretty hard to botch?

I just want to make sure that when I'm doing this swap I'm doing it right the first time.

On top of the pill there's a circular depression the emitter fits in exactly, no need for any alighment. You'll see when you take out the pill, very straight forward. Just one note, at least on mine the two leads coming out of the pill is not wire but sorta like the leg on 5mm leds, so they are not really bendable.

Lumenous said:

I guess what threw me off was the posts about people getting the U2SVOH emitters in their 30000 serial numbered Novatacs and compared them to the older U2SWOI. I might have misunderstood those posts then.

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The bin of Emitters have never been confirmed. They very well could be USXOI. We only know that some have gotten emails that say the brightness bin is U bin. Heck Novatac doesn't even say SSC P4s are used. SSC are used but that's because we know what they look like.

Thank you, guys.

Last question(s) I promise:

Which one should I get for the Novatac 120, U2SVOI or the lower voltage U2SVOH?

Do I need to apply some thermal paste during the installation?

Use Arctic Silver 5 and get the H bin VF LED.

Do a search in CPFMP for HDS mod Step by step. It'll give you a rough outline on how to do the mod. The only major difference is in that you have retaining rings in your Novatac.

Novatac used some sort of thermal paste so emitter is easily removable, I did the same.

Something to read before you go out and buy the expensive thermal epoxy.

jzmtl said:

Novatac used some sort of thermal paste so emitter is easily removable, I did the same.

Something to read before you go out and buy the expensive thermal epoxy.

Click to expand...

Questionable test and methods. I refer you to the ones done by Overclockers.com and various others who actually followed the instructions. AS3 and AS5 are some of the best consumer pastes available. The diamond based pastes are also some of the best but it depends on who makes them.

Link?

http://www.overclockers.com/index.p...ew=article&id=3735&catid=52:cooling&Itemid=34

There's other links but I can't seem to call on them anymore. Overclockers UK did a really extensive shoot out.

AS3 and AS5 needs to be applied properly and given time to set then broken-in via thermal cycles.

Unfortunately I haven't really been into overclocking for years. I was very serious when the mobile Barton was king.

EDIT:
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/thermalpasteshootout/

The problem with your link is they don't state time needed to set. He also doesn't know the Calibration of his probe and what the accuracy is and goes on to use it to find a C.W. via calculation. No mention of application or what the set up looks like. The volcano 6Cu sink was also a subpar sink I used it for a bit and it was crude.

If you don't know the accuracy you should go with a relative comparison.