MC-E (CR123) with remote pressure switch?

I'm looking for a reasonably priced MC-E run by 2 CR123 that can be operated by a remote pressure switch with a long cable. Something without TOO big of a bezel... I just want attach it to my Mossberg for blinding people in my house, so throw is not really an issue.

I've looked at the Ultralight C2 MC-E on DX, and that would be perfect except that it only runs on 18650 like all other MC-E lights on the site. I can buy it with the remote switch and mount for less than $60.

I have a cheap CR123 light with a remote pressure switch, so I may be able to somehow hack that into the switch into a light that doesn't offer a remote pressure switch. But I'd rather just find a light that offers a compatible switch...

This is a pretty specific request, and I've looked around, so I don't expect a miracle answer. But I thought I'd try anyway..

If you have some basic soldering skills, you can install a pressure pad switch into any light. You just disassemble the stailcap, desolder the switch, feed the pressure pad switch cable through a hole you cut in the switch boot and solder the two leads from the pressure pad switch to the two solder pads that were previously attached to the switch.

The reason all those MC-E lights are 18650 is because that cell allows direct driving the LED. 2x123 requires a driver, and one that will have to dissipate a lot of heat at that. Plus the 18650 is much better able to handle the current draw than 2x123 cells. You may just want to buy some 18650 cells and a charger.

LukeA said:

If you have some basic soldering skills, you can install a pressure pad switch into any light. You just disassemble the stailcap, desolder the switch, feed the pressure pad switch cable through a hole you cut in the switch boot and solder the two leads from the pressure pad switch to the two solder pads that were previously attached to the switch.

The reason all those MC-E lights are 18650 is because that cell allows direct driving the LED. 2x123 requires a driver, and one that will have to dissipate a lot of heat at that. Plus the 18650 is much better able to handle the current draw than 2x123 cells. You may just want to buy some 18650 cells and a charger.

Click to expand...

The reason I want to use lithium primaries is because this is getting mounted on my "in case of emergency" shotgun, and I don't plan on ever using it. So I wanted disposable cells that I could just leave in the light and replace every few years.

Unless I'm mistaken, lithium primaries hold their charge longer than Li-ion rechargables... right?

man you are so close to my idea....

I have assembled some C-2 lights for a friend and his buddies in his parashoot team (military) and I was researching for "project machinefire" a P7 flashlight with deep bezel, 4xCR123s and a pressure pad, mounted on his MG.

So far....

haven't found a light that has that deep a reflector. But you are very well put with an Ultrafire C2 style shallow reflector.

There must be 2 sizes of tailcaps when we talk about chinese light of this style. The UF C-2 style and the R-500/R-600 family...

There is a C2 pressure pad and maybe a 500/600 one too maybe the romisen t5 one?. UNLUCKILY the momentary pressure switch that was once available from KaiDomain for the 500-600s is sold-out.

ETA: just found this: http://www.solarforcestore.com/servlet/the-336/switch/Detail hope it fits

You can adapt the pressure pad in any tailcap that is the same or bigger, or make your own pressure switch. See this and this

Kaidomain sells a driver that has an input voltage of 5-15V. it is not very efficient and heats up quickly but for your purpose that does not matter.

So you can go this route...Search DX for 500/600 Cree Q5 lights that have a body extension. Combine parts with a siilar light that already hosts a P7 or MC-E led and change out the driver...

Hope I was of help, kostas

2nd ETA...why trouble with the MC-E and P7 and their issues? why not a 4 cree light?

Thanks for all the great advice!

I would like to use the Ultrafire C8 with the C2 pressure switch... they both take 18650 (though the C8 also takes CR123), but how do I know if they have compatible tailcaps?

As to why I want an MC-E instead of a 4 XR-E light, my thought was that the reflector should be better on an MC-E light because it doesn't have to be designed around 4 separate emitters...

as far as i know they share the same body...

but eeven if the tailcap do not match (unlikely) you can take the innards and transplant them. Why don't you compare photos from dx overlaying one on the other?

regarding the reflector maybe if you are goping for through. but if you want a hoem shotgun maybe flood (relatively) and wall are more important???

kosPap said:

regarding the reflector maybe if you are goping for through. but if you want a hoem shotgun maybe flood (relatively) and wall are more important???

Click to expand...

Okay, that one took me a minute ("goping for through"?!)...

Yeah, I'm definately going for a somewhat floody beam because I want to be able to blind everyone on the "business end".

Not sure how to compare the DX pics... they don't show enough detail on the threads for me to tell whether they are compatible. I would have assumed that the C2 tailcap would be compatible with the other Ultrafire lights that can take 18650, but they list it as a C2 tailcap, not a tailcap for the "C series" or anything like that... makes me think its only compatible with the C2.