Brightest 2C Mag option?

revs

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I want to put a 2C M@g in the wife's car for emergencies. What would be the brightest/longest lasting/least expensive option? I was thinking of a P4 driven by alkalines and some sort of circuit to provide the correct output to the P4. I am open for options, though. Want it to just have an off/on function for simplicity. Long lasting would be nice, not required. Lithium or other rechargables are okay, also.

Thanks all.
 
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HarryN

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

If you don't already have the Mag, I would consider buying something else. 2 D mags with alkalines have very little power, and the modifications to bring one to life will cost more than the price of a 1/2 decent LED light that is brighter and runs longer.

For $ 50 - 60 you can get a decent fenix light with 2 x 123s., and for 2x that, you can get a SF light of some kind. I kind of like L4s for general use, but that is just me.
 

wildstar87

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

Convert to a 3C, direct drive the SSC P4 on a DHS heatsink. Simple, effective, fairly bright.

EDIT: Oops... Missed that it was 2C for some reason, thought it was a 2D.. Doh..

Yeah what spencer said.. That would be fairly cheap and bright, or you could go with a BB1000, or GD1000, little bit more expensive, but mainly you just need a boost circuit to run a SSC P4.
 
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revs

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

I like the Mag look and size. I think it would be easier to operate while wearing gloves-Utah winters suck. And, the mass of the light would be reassuring should she get a flat at night in a bad part of town.;)

But, I will definitely look into other options. Maybe a SF G2 to throw in the glove box. Thanks for the input so far.
 

spencer

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

Get a DHS heatsink, put a P4 or an XR-E on it, get a cheap 350mA or 700mA driver from DX or KD.
 

mash.m

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

put two lion c-cells, one mce and a buck driver that can handle the mce in it and you will be happy withe the brightness and runtime. you also need a copper or alu heatsink for the mag.

here are the parts that i will chose from kai:
driver - http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5595
mce - http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5594
c-lion cells - didn´t find it in short time

the brightest, but expensive single led option will be a 6-die ostar with a shark.

markus
 
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TexLite

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

I was thinking of a P4 driven by alkalines and some sort of circuit to provide the correct output to the P4. I am open for options, though. Want it to just have an off/on function for simplicity.

Your on the right track IMO.An SSC P4 on a heatsink with maybe a BB350 or Nexgen350 would be a reliable,fairly bright,long lasting light.

If you go the lithium route,I'd stick to primaries.Three with a sleeve and a buck driver would work well in the 2C.

-Michael
 

Norm

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

put two lion c-cells, one mce and a buck driver that can handle the mce in it and you will be happy withe the brightness and runtime. you also need a copper or alu heatsink for the mag.

here are the parts that i will chose from kai:
driver - http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5595
mce - http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5594
c-lion cells - didn´t find it in short time

the brightest, but expensive single led option will be a 6-die ostar with a shark.

markus
No need for the driver the MCE can be run direct drive from the two Li-ions, 2P2S.
 

2xTrinity

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

I want to put a 2C M@g in the wife's car for emergencies. What would be the brightest/longest lasting/least expensive option?

Brightest In terms of throw:
Philips 5761 incan lamp on 2 LiIon C-Cells with a smooth reflector. About 1000 lumens in a narrow beam at most. This bulb draws as much power as these batteries can safely handle, so there is nothing brighter. Total cost around ~150

Brightest In terms of overall output:

probably a homemade multi emitter build, such as my 2C with 3 Cree MC-Es (high power multi chip), in 2-series, 6-parallel wiring. Draws similar power to above. Due to higher efficiency than incan, overall output will be significantly greater, but it will be a flood pattern. Total cost iwll be around ~$150 (no need to buy more expensive protected cells)

Note I have built both of the above, 2C is my favorite format

Longest Lasting:
This totally depends on how much output you are looking for, otherwise I'd just say an LED drawing some infinitesimal current. LED lights with multiple levels have potential to be both brightest AND longest running (as long as the "low" level is low enough)

I plan to build a single-MC-E maglite at some point in the future that is infinitely dimmable.

Cheapest:
None of the above...
 
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Northern Lights

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

When you said brightest that left only the P7 in LED and 5761 in incandescent. Otherwise there are many bulbs and LEDs you can build into a 2C, but that was very limiting.

The LED is the simplest brightest:
2c mag
UCL lens or keep the plastic
The P7 reflector for DXor KD
H22A sync
AW lithium C
a spacer and direct drive.
P7 D or C bin, D will run a little brighter in this combo 800-900 lumens
Or
2c mag
UCL
Litho123 SMO reflector or LOP.
PR to bi pin socket
5761, maybe frosted
Two AW c lithium cells, usually needs double click with the 5761 but not always.
AW C driver will give you modes and no double click as an option.
This one I build on an emoli and it is brighter than the 5761 on AW cells, right up there to the 5761 on two emoli and soft start in a 3C, it is right up there as the brightest single LED light I have made!, 900 lumens is a good guess
FS-RECHARGEABLE 2D P7, Modes, Electronic GID & more features
The LED lights burn about an hour and the 5761 about 25 minutes.

The 2C is my favorite, I have had several 5761 on c hosts and several types of battery power. The emoli is the brightest for this one
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2634123&postcount=25
But my new favorite is the above P7 with charging Jack and D2FLEX on the emoli.
 

effulgentOne

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

Another option for brightness in a 2C:
1185 + bulb holder + 3x IMR16340 + homemade sleeve + reflector + lens

Brightness: plenty
Runtime: ;)
 

CampingLED

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?


Norm, I asked the question because using "M@g" and not "Mag" in titles and threads only complicates searches. If I am a newbie and search for the brightest 2C Mag option I will miss this thread and possibly start a new one.
 

revs

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

I renamed it to clarify for the new members.

I like the idea of the P7 and the incan mods. I realize that LED will last longer and incan would be brighter. What type of batteries would last the longest if the light was stored in thee glove box? After all, that is what I want to do. Build a light she can keep in the glove box for emergencies.

I looked at SureFire, but, like I mentioned above, the size of a Mag is like a small baton. If I got much bigger than 2 cells, it wouldn't fit in the glove box. May have to go 2D and put a P4 or P7 in it.
 

revs

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

Your on the right track IMO.An SSC P4 on a heatsink with maybe a BB350 or Nexgen350 would be a reliable,fairly bright,long lasting light.

If you go the lithium route,I'd stick to primaries.Three with a sleeve and a buck driver would work well in the 2C.

-Michael


Ok. So, I would need the P4 on a heat sink. With 3 123s, what buck driver would be best? This option sounds quite promising. I can get a battery holder that holds 4 CR123s and throw that in the glove box with the light. Then, show her how to change batteries and she should be good.

I could also use a P7, correct?

Thanks all for your input. This has been great for a relative newbie like myself. I have only modded a couple lights, so far. A 2D Mag with a P4 and multi mode driver and a small Dorcy with an upgraded star.
 

Northern Lights

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

I renamed it to clarify for the new members.

I like the idea of the P7 and the incan mods. I realize that LED will last longer and incan would be brighter. What type of batteries would last the longest if the light was stored in thee glove box? After all, that is what I want to do. Build a light she can keep in the glove box for emergencies.

I looked at SureFire, but, like I mentioned above, the size of a Mag is like a small baton. If I got much bigger than 2 cells, it wouldn't fit in the glove box. May have to go 2D and put a P4 or P7 in it.

Lithium batteries do not self discharge, that is why some have 10 year shelf lives. NiCd and NiMh self discharge.

Also, the lithium is not affected by the cold, the nickel chemistries die when it is very cold.
 

revs

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

So, a 123 powered light would be a good glove box light then. Sounds like I have a power source. A good driver and a P4 or P7 with heatsink and I should be good to go.
 

Northern Lights

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Re: Bightest 2C M@g option?

So, a 123 powered light would be a good glove box light then. Sounds like I have a power source. A good driver and a P4 or P7 with heatsink and I should be good to go.
Lets look at this, I have built P4, P7 and 5761 lights in various configurations and I will tell you somethings from experience.
AW C cells are the best protected lithium Ion cells, 55 mm long at 3.3 Ah and 3.6 Volts; they fit in a light without enlarging the bore.

Emoli Cs, are 70 mm long, 2.95 Ah and 3.7 volts, safe lithium unprotected batteries, the mag must be bored with a brake hone to accept these.

A123, not 123A, are C that are safe lithium unprotected batteries too, 65 mm long and 3.3 volts and 2.3 Ah. A123 lights must be bored too.

The LEDS are catagorized by a bin code consisting of three bins run together and it means something like this: luminosity (one letter), color (3 letters), voltage (one letter),
for this discussion I will skip the center bin and write of luminosity and Voltage. Usually the center bin is represented for P7 by three letters, 5 letters is the entire bin code.

P7 available in C bin is 700-800 lumens are voltage bin, I bin or 3.5 Volts which is the voltage required for max output, called forward voltage Vf.

P7 available in D bin 800-900 lumens are voltage bin, J bin or to say they take 3.75 volts to put out maximum luminosity, a higher voltage bin.

P4 are 3.5 Vf. and a max output about 225 lumen, about 1/4 of a P7 D bin in light output.

If you run any of these LEDs direct drive on A123 cells direct drive it will work but you will have dimmer outputs than what you want becaue the voltage will be 3.3 volts and even less due to the volts lost to internal resistance and the natural run down when the battery is turned on. It could be calculated but I do not have time to do that. It will be too dim and defeat your purpose and that is avoidable.

All three LEDs do well at 3.6 volts, the AW cells, (18650s will also fit with a pvc spacer inside a c cell but it is way less run time of the AW c-cell).
Only the P7 D bin, J bin runs well on the 3.7 volt emoli. The emoli is too much voltage for the other two LEDs and direct drive will cook them. The D bin, J bin on the emoli is the brightest direct drive LED battery combination, I get over 3.0 Amp running at the LED. It is not that significantly brighter however than the C bin, I bin on AW cells, you need to see them side by side to notice it. The P7 I posted above in the 2C is a D bin , J bin on an emoli and it looks and test by light meter a little brighter than other combinations I tried.

For a little incan discussion:

A 5761 in a 3c-cell with two A123 cells will run with out a soft start very reliably and bightly as the bulb voltage will likely start at 6.9 volts. The bulb is rated over 600 lumens at 6 volts! This is an excellent combination. I built a few of them and I know it is a favorite of Jim Jones too because it is so simple and reliable and bright. Using a complicated setup with emoli batteries, resistors and NTC and even combinig an AW driver you can get about 80 more lumens out of it but it is likely to instaflash.

To summarize about you quest:

The LED on Lithium is the way to go. Long run time, Long shelf life. The easiest to throw together and to charge up later is the AW C-cells. Those run any of the 3 LEDs written about here very well and all three LEDs will drop onto several of the heat sinks, I like the plain H22A heat sync.

Hope this helps, I cannot anticipate all the questions you may want to ask me, if any at all but I would be happy to express my opinionon the stuff I have played with and remember the forum is full of opinions and they are have worth. Together we are a thinking group that plays well with others!

The best light is the one you are happy with, it fits your needs and wants.

Parts to build a simple P7 in a Mag C likely will run about $110. From DX and KD you can get several 52mm head P7, they all have the good LOP reflector made for the P7, with on/off mode or fancy with 5 or more modes for around $60. They run on protected 18650 batteries. Two of the 2500 mAh batteris will get you 3/4 the run time of the AW cells. Two sets of batteries, a charger and light can be had for under $80. I got a MTE 5 mode and it is almost as bright and definately has the same throw as my custom P7 rechargeable mod. It broke my heart as the price was very reasonable and the product was perfect. It is an excellent glove box light with strobe, sos, three brightness levels. You can read inside with the low and see 200 meters with the high. They click on and off and a short depress changes modes. They remember the last mode used.
 
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