I had my first expensive flashlight scare.

LED Flashlights.

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Dec 16, 2007
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I changed my first set of batteries on my new Fenix L2D CE XR-E with a brand new set of batteries and the light went dimmer and dimmer until the light went out completely.

So, I was saying to myself it can't be the contract in the flashlight because it was a brand new flashlight and sure enough it was the contacts.

Why would the contacts get so dirty so fast when my cheap Fenix L2S never had that problem.
 

Jarl

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because the contacts were dirty from the factory? See if it happens again, it shouldn't...
 

LED Flashlights.

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Yep, it was the contracts.

I was alittle scared that my 50 dollar light just went out completely when I put in new batteries and it was the contacts that were dirty.
 

Fallingwater

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You know this place has warped you when you read "expensive flashlight", then "$50" and think "where's the expensive part?" :p
 

Freddy

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I've had a similar experience with my Lumapower M1-T. When I put in new batteries the light wouldn't light up. As I screwed the cap back and forth it lights up intermittently. I've not had time to do anything yet, just switched to my T10-c2.

Any suggestions/explanations?
 

Northern Lights

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You know this place has warped you when you read "expensive flashlight", then "$50" and think "where's the expensive part?" :p
That is what struck me too! :lolsign: !
Recently I purchased a commercially built P7 light that was composed of all the same parts that I purchased loose and had compiled into a completed home made modified light. The commercial product was half the price of the loose parts. I have been devaluated.
 

cruisemissile

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That is what struck me too! :lolsign: !
Recently I purchased a commercially built P7 light that was composed of all the same parts that I purchased loose and had compiled into a completed home made modified light. The commercial product was half the price of the loose parts. I have been devaluated.

can you give me more info on the P7 ? what brand?
 

OCDGearhead

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You know this place has warped you when you read "expensive flashlight", then "$50" and think "where's the expensive part?" :p

Que? $50?:crackup:


Pre CPF days. I was so young and niave...


CPF is a bad place for obsessive, compulsive types:grin2:...
 

carrot

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i was thinking the same thing- expensive, $50?
I was expecting to read "My $5,000 solid gold and diamond-encrusted , highly modified by NASA to sizzle eyeballs of martians"-light.
Fenixes are expensive? I thought they were considered "cheap".

EDIT: HOLY CRAP, 5000th post.
 

Hondo

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Congradulations, orange one!

Wow, talk about getting off of the OP's topic!

I have found that cruddy internals are the norm rather than the exception, even on rather expensive lights. I have always been in the habit with cheap lights of starting by tearing them completely apart and cleaning everything up and lubing it properly. But most folks will recommend the same with any light, and sometimes you might be pleasantly surprised that one comes squeeky clean and lubed. I don't really expect it though.

Back off topic, I will admit to the above. I thought it was funny when I asked the lady at the self checkout at Lowes to check that the 3D Mag LED was still on sale for $15 that she said "Oh, these are the best, top of the line! You will have this light for the rest of your life". We are warped.
 
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Guy's Dropper

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Well, you may have to clean it, but it will work afterward wont it? There are a few lights that you could make "last the rest of your life", but Maglite would be at the bottom of the list. At least Maglites are easy to clean and maintain.
 

Northern Lights

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can you give me more info on the P7 ? what brand?
Reflector
P7 LED
A driver
Glass lens
Two lithium batteries
Body itself

All of these components are essentially with a few identically (led and reflector, likely the glass) the same as my mod. I have built 4 each P7s and I have designed and am building two more in a multi LED model.

MTE 5 mode, almost, not enough to gripe about, as bright as my mod which is Vf matched. I am very please with it. Fits a rifle mount very well too.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14645
 

cruisemissile

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Reflector
P7 LED
A driver
Glass lens
Two lithium batteries
Body itself

All of these components are essentially with a few identically (led and reflector, likely the glass) the same as my mod. I have built 4 each P7s and I have designed and am building two more in a multi LED model.

MTE 5 mode, almost, not enough to gripe about, as bright as my mod which is Vf matched. I am very please with it. Fits a rifle mount very well too.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14645

I wish u hadn't shown me this, but I asked. Sweet set up. 60 bucks is good for the firepower. But how bright is it really? (Compared to advertised lumens)
 

Magnus1959

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I changed my first set of batteries on my new Fenix L2D CE XR-E with a brand new set of batteries and the light went dimmer and dimmer until the light went out completely.

So, I was saying to myself it can't be the contract in the flashlight because it was a brand new flashlight and sure enough it was the contacts.

Why would the contacts get so dirty so fast when my cheap Fenix L2S never had that problem.
That's OK guy, $50 is still a lot of money to me also. I would have panicked also.
 

Northern Lights

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I wish u hadn't shown me this, but I asked. Sweet set up. 60 bucks is good for the firepower. But how bright is it really? (Compared to advertised lumens)
I can only give you comparisons.
I built a 5761 that is on the edge of insta flash on a Litho123 reflector:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2634123&postcount=25
This light through 2 years of work and experience, correspondence etc. has me figuring educatedly that is puts out 850-900 torch lumens.
I built three styles of P7 rechargeables.
1.5 D P7, Modes, Charging Jack, Electronic GID & more
FS-RECHARGEABLE 1.5 D P7, Modes, Electronic GID & more
FS-RECHARGEABLE 2C P7, Modes, Electronic GID & more
FS-RECHARGEABLE 2D P7, Modes, Electronic GID & more features
I have also the MTE 5 mode 26mm head P7 I modded, this links gives all the links that describe it in that thread. I got over 3 amps to the LED.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2737937&postcount=172

In eye ball and light box comparison the line up is BRIGHT to DIM:
5761
MTE 52MM 5 MODE
2C
2D
1.5D
MTE 26MM

There is little difference between the 52mm P7s,
the mods go like this:
the top, 2C is D bin with Vf at J bin on the Correct Vf, 3.75+ volts,
the 2D is D bin at J bin on a 3.6 Vf over an AW C-cell
and last the 1.5D is C bin at I bin Vf 3.5 on 3.6 AW cells.

The 52mm MTE for some reason, it may be that the LED sits slightly different but it is not obvious, has a slightly tighter beam than the mods but the reflector is the same. Therefore the center of the hot spot at times looks brighter than my 2Cs but the MTE has less light in the spill. It is the difference in comparison of a nozzle on a steam of water, tighter equals more power in the stream or brighter in the center.

Given this line up and the comparison the the 5761 which is the brightest 5761 I have built then all the large head P7 come in over 800 lumens. The MTE 52 mm must be shown against the 2C in order to see that it is dimmer, but ever so slightly. I cannot see it unless side by side is done.

I have 2 of the 2Cs and they have D bins from two different sources but are built identically and miraculously had the same readings on a lux meter! They are very close to the 900 lumens like the 5761, I would rate the 5761 at 850 to 900 torch lumens. The 5761 has a greater flood than the P7s but the intensity in the hot spot is nearly the same. The 5761 when directly compared may be a little bit brighter but it is very close and difficult to make a decision to which is brighter.

So no to seeing 900 lumens out the front of the light but the LED likely is putting out 900 lumens and of course there always is some loss of lumens to the physics of the light. In incans we figure 35% loss off the bulb lumens.

Now all of this is subjective but it may give you an idea of what I was saying. If it were not for the fact I have a little more burn time and my mods plug in to recharge I would have been very discouraged becaue the MTE is so very good. It strobes like a gladius too! My mods do not! The MTE also appears to have a thermal circuit. I got mine hot and it would drop to the lower mode. I hope it does anyway, it acted like it. If not then it was a failure in the LED or board.

Fortunately, for me and all other Lumen Hounds can understand this; my personal P7, a 2C mod light, is slightly brighter than the P7 MTE. I worked hard on the matching of components to get those amps to the LED by using a Vf that gave the max the LED could handle. If my mod had not achieved that status I would be very very disappointed and would carry only the MTE. That is so ridiculous because unless you look side by side you would not notice the difference. Also as batteries discharge that differfence changes too and then you cannot even do a fair comparison any way. Flashaholism is a debilitating illness.
 
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cruisemissile

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That's OK guy, $50 is still a lot of money to me also. I would have panicked also.

Let me comment from another angle- aside from the $, it would be disturbing for any of us to have any flashlight that we hold dear (regardless of price)to not work.
So I do understand. And yes 50 is a lot of money especially for a flashlight.I have to forget what I have spent on lights so that I don't start to twitch
Back in the day an expensive light was a 2D maglite for 20 bucks
 
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