Mag P7 mod, what am i doing wrong?

Hi, i just completed my first mag P7 mod by i am a bit dissapointed.
The components:
Mag 3D
UCL lens
DSWOI from Amilite
2,8Amp 7135 drive from KD
3x nimh 9500mah batteries
and a lot of work!



I am measuring at the batteries 1,31V each.
At the tailcap i read max 1,4amp and 14500 lux at 1m with my lux meter.
Why am i not getting 2,8amp reading?Even without multimeter i am measuring the same output. Donut is horrible to say. I have put some copper wiring to the spring of the tailcap and to the spring of the switch.
I have made some joints on some wires ,but all seem ok, could there be a problem with resistance? Or the led is not "I" but a "J"?
It took me so many time for a bad result.I was expecting over 25000 lux to be honest and a better amp reading. Any ideas?

Some new data, i put into series another batter, to make it 4 x D and with a wire to check the output. Now i got 20800 lux. But still out of specs.
Do you think that the wires i used are not good and have a lot of resistance?
I used some small wires from a old parallel(25 small wires in a bigger one) cable of my computer. They have copper.

I am NOT an expert .... I have just build my own P7 Mag, following Wquiles
tutorial. My Mag has no resistance mods on the switch or spring. As far as
I can tell the P7 is working to specs.

If I were to guess, I would say that it is the driver board. Either the board itself is defective, or the voltage drop from the board is too much for just 3 cells. You may need four cells to get above the Vf of the LED + voltage drop of the board. For example, 3.5V (LED)+ .9V voltage drop = 4.4V. You are at 3.93V total for your cells.

The LED's from Amilite are awesome. They are what I have been using for all of my P7 mods because of their low Vf.

I am using the Goldserve Tri-FluPIC boards for 3D Mag builds. The voltage drop of that board is minimal, and it is a solid performing powerhouse. It is expensive at $45, though.

Heavier gauge wire would be a good idea, as it can handle higher current.

datiLED said:

If I were to guess, I would say that it is the driver board. Either the board itself is defective, or the voltage drop from the board is too much for just 3 cells. You may need four cells to get above the Vf of the LED + voltage drop of the board. For example, 3.5V (LED)+ .9V voltage drop = 4.4V. You are at 3.93V total for your cells.

The LED's from Amilite are awesome. They are what I have been using for all of my P7 mods because of their low Vf.

I am using the Goldserve Tri-FluPIC boards for 3D Mag builds. The voltage drop of that board is minimal, and it is a solid performing powerhouse. It is expensive at $45, though.

Heavier gauge wire would be a good idea, as it can handle higher current.

Click to expand...

I will see if there is a problem with the board by making it direct drive. Do you think that these small cables might be the problem?It is copper, they are very small, are you using larger cables?
These cables are a bit less than 1mm wide.

Also, another question, what voltage drop should i expect in Directdrive in order to work in specs? For example, i am at 3,93V if i have 0,5V drop, i should be getting a good result with an "I" led.

What are you getting to the led(amp) ,have you measured that
how many volts do you measure over the LED when its running ??

That would tell a lot more than what you are measuring at the tail

Isthereanybodyoutthere said:

What are you getting to the led(amp) ,have you measured that
how many volts do you measure over the LED when its running ??

That would tell a lot more than what you are measuring at the tail

Click to expand...

It is not that easy to do it, because i have built up the flashlight. If i disassemble to make it direct drive i will check it. The only easily measureable is the vF of the led now,i will check it, it might show some more info.