UltraFire WF-1000L HELP!!!

I got mine from deal exrtreme
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18475
I suppose a 1000 lumen (it is a thousand lumen light right?) for $45 is too good to be true. The clicky is broken, it's more of smacky since I have to smack the tail of the light to get it to work ( which only does .00001% of the time, PM me to see pics of my bruised palms). Does anyone know what kind of clicky my light uses so I could get a replacement. I would prefer the complete assembly since I have no soldering iron or soldering skills. Thanks folks.

ilLUMENati said:

I got mine from deal exrtreme
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18475
I suppose a 1000 lumen (it is a thousand lumen light right?) for $45 is too good to be true. The clicky is broken, it's more of smacky since I have to smack the tail of the light to get it to work ( which only does .00001% of the time, PM me to see pics of my bruised palms). Does anyone know what kind of clicky my light uses so I could get a replacement. I would prefer the complete assembly since I have no soldering iron or soldering skills. Thanks folks.

Click to expand...

Have you contacted DX yet? What did they say?

ilLUMENati said:

The clicky is broken, it's more of smacky since I have to smack the tail of the light to get it to work ( which only does .00001% of the time, PM me to see pics of my bruised palms). Does anyone know what kind of clicky my light uses so I could get a replacement. I would prefer the complete assembly since I have no soldering iron or soldering skills. Thanks folks.

Click to expand...

I cannot say for certain if this will work for you but I have had the same problem with one of my DX lights. In mine the switch made contact with the inside of the tailcap by a couple pieces of metal that stuck out to the side to complete the circuit. All I had to do was bend the tabs out a little bit more so it had better contact. It did not require any soldering and it works perfectly now.

saabluster said:

I cannot say for certain if this will work for you but I have had the same problem with one of my DX lights. In mine the switch made contact with the inside of the tailcap by a couple pieces of metal that stuck out to the side to complete the circuit. All I had to do was bend the tabs out a little bit more so it had better contact. It did not require any soldering and it works perfectly now.

Click to expand...

No there seems to be a problem with the spring that sets tension against the clicky (or whatever mechanism there is inside). The clicky itself is stuck in a recessed position.

whenever that happens to me on any light, I grab a bottle of silicone oil, and drip all over the inside of switch.. then I jiggle it, and with luck, it comes loose.

Ziemas said:

Have you contacted DX yet? What did they say?

Click to expand...

They told me to ship it to a florida facility of theirs and they will replace the defective part.

ilLUMENati said:

They told me to ship it to a florida facility of theirs and they will replace the defective part.

Click to expand...

DX recently sent me the wrong item. They replaced it, no questions asked. Just use the "Customer Service Express:" feature, upload pictures of the defective item per the web site procedure and send it to that Florida address. Ship it cheapest way possible via USPS with confirmation number (bolded for a reason!!).

It was slow, but DX came through for me. In total it took ~25 days from order placement to corrected item receipt.

I am out the additional $2.66 for S/H to Florida, but I don't really care.

IMHO theres not much you can do about a clicky thats mechanically defective. The poster above has some good advice about using a light oil to try and free it up. But my experience with cheap clicky mechanisms is that the oil wears quickly and you will have to re-lube every other month (YMMV). IMHO a ~$50 light should not fail like that, and so I think you are better off returning it for a good one.

im pretty sure DX links are prohibited here...

rockz4532 said:

im pretty sure DX links are prohibited here...

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I only posted the link so people can tell me which clicky fits on it in case I have to order spares.

Btw, does the ultrafire that I got actually 1000 lumens? I'm comparing it to my M20 warrior and it doesn't seem to be any brighter (just more spill but less throw).

Where do they claim it to be 1,000 lumens? I don't think a MC-E is capable of 1,000 lumens. Possibly at the emitter, but you'd probably be driving it dangerously hard.

They claim it 900 lumens, and this light doesn't seem to be the "legit" WF-1000. The real one, also called WF-1000 which is discontinued costs $75 and there are pretty good reviews of it.

The design of both WF-1000 are different.. I think Ultrafire flashlights are being made by several companies which brands those generic lights.

They also have the "UltraFire MCU WF-1000L MC-E (BIN K-WC) 3-Mode LED Flashlight" Notice it's a 3-mode and it is a 2500mA Current Output, Digitally Regulated, also $78.
I just received a Ultrafire WF-1000L SSC P7-C 3-Mode 900-Lumen LED Flashlight and it has a brighter hotspot then my Aurora AK-P7-3 but the Ultrafire has a deeper and wider reflector. I'm having trouble with my switch on my Ultrafire which I have apart right now.

ilLUMENati said:

No there seems to be a problem with the spring that sets tension against the clicky (or whatever mechanism there is inside). The clicky itself is stuck in a recessed position.

Click to expand...

Had the same problem with my "piston" light from DX (nothing to do with the piston battery system). Swapped the switch with the same type on sale at DX, everything went fine.

Remove the tailcap, unscrew everything in sight and post a picture of the switch. If you then message DX and tell them about the switch (and send them the pic), they oughta be able to send you just a new switch or two for free, so you don't waste time resending the whole light.

ilLUMENati said:

I got mine from deal exrtreme
The clicky is broken, it's more of smacky

Click to expand...

glad i wasn't drinking coffee when I read that!

I guess I lucked out on mine. While the UI annoys me (no memory, and always switches to the next mode when you turn it on) it has the distinction of being the brightest light I own. I don't break it out often (prefer the 1x18650 size) but when I need something bright, it is what I reach for.

The clicky is not broken, it just cant make contact with the body.

The whole tailcap is anodized, but is a small spot where they removed the HA so the switch can make contact, but sometimes it is not big enough and the clicky fails.

Many people who received these Ultrafire P7 lights reported it as DOA, or broken clicky, but just unscrew the switch and sand the tailcap interior to remove the ha. It worked in mine.