The problem with switches

Last week I went to work ,at night,and when I needed it ,the swicth on my Regalight WT1 went out on me. No problem I'll use my Tiablo A9. WRONG!
The switch on the A9 went out also. On the WT1 it would not come on unless I tapped on it,and on the Tiablo it would not lock on. Both lights are already on their second switches. I feel like you just can't get both a bright and reliable light at an affordable price.
I have contacted both companies to see about another replacement switch. Tiablo is sending me one,but I'm worried about it happening again.

I will always favor twist-cap switches over clickys, for the reliability factor alone. If you are lucky enough to get a good one it will last, bad ones however will leave you :candle:. Who cares about ergonomics, if you can't rely on it. I use an RC-N3 at work, but I always have a 6P in my backpack as a backup.

Someone design some twisty caps for the A9 and the WT1 please. I'd buy em.

I agree, for "must work when I need them" lights, a twisty is the way to go.

I really like the switch on my Rayovac Sportsman Xtreme lights. Momentary clicky combined with a full twist switch.

If you can get that kind of a switch on a $20 B&M light, why not on more expensive lights?

Surefire, ROV, Fenix, and Gerber use twisties. Who else does?

I wish the more expensive DX MC-E / P7 lights used twisty caps.

FWIW, TOP stryker 2xCR123 lights use twistys.

" If you can get that kind of a switch on a $20 B&M light, why not on more expensive lights? "

Most people see clickys as a high-end option and twistys are considered cheap, entry level and not ergonomic. Besides Surefire, which relies heavily on their fan-base for high end sales, a high $$$ light with twisty cap most likely would not sell very well.

You could try Litemania's Sgt. Burkett. There's a thread in the marketplace.