SF L2/SF L4

I am thinking bout getting a new SF with some money I got for the holidays, and I am debating between the E2DL, the L2 or the L4. I think I want to stay away from the E2DL because of the crenelations, not that they're a bad thing, but I was thinking something with a momentary on/off twisty... no clickie...

Can anyone tell me what's better the L2 or L4 and what type of optic or reflector is used?

Thanks!

Bruce B said:

Can anyone tell me what's better the L2 or L4 and what type of optic or reflector is used?

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What do you plan on using the light for? That'll determine which light may fit your needs better.

IIRC L2/L4 have the same LED and reflector(Luxeon V). They are also floody lights(wall of light as Surefire calls it). Not much throw and also uses the previous generation LEDs. They also heat up quickly.

The E2DL uses a Cree XR-E and has a Surefire developed optic(from what I know) and is much more throw oriented with a useable/good spill. How good the spill it depends on who you ask, but it is definately a good thrower for the size(from what I hear).

What will you use the light for?
Will you use the light as a hand warmer?
How much runtime?

FWIW I have about a half-dozen SF lights, and the L2 is my least favorite. It's UI is the perfect two-stage, which is nice, but it is just left behind with its much lower efficiency, complete lack of throw, and its relative dislike of high-performance rechargeable batteries. Also the tint of mine isn't as nice as all my others. I'd really recommend a C2/C3/Malkoff or L1/etc instead. The crennelations are quite minor on the L1 and don't bother me (or others - TSA for example) at all. My 1.5 cents.

Bruce B said:

I was thinking something with a momentary on/off twisty... no clickie...

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Well the L4 is a clickie so that rules it out right away.

Both the L2 and the L4 are unfortunately old tech now so I really wouldn't recommend either of them anymore... not for that price :green:
The E2DL is a nice light though. But I do understand the dislike of the crenelated bezel. So I'd say look beyond Surefire. Fir the cost of a SF L2/ L4 you can have other absolutely great lights that are popular around here.
Give us more details on what you want.

The L4 is not outdated, it is still about the best light there is for doing building searches. And it's still warrantied for life. There are brighter lights out there but the L4 lights up a room like nothing else. The only lights that compare are the Malkoff M60 Flooders. If your primary use is building searches there is no other light i would trust my life with.

I have to go +1 with Kestrel. A P60 host with your choice of Makoff flood drop ins. There was a thread that I cant find by a member who had both a L4 and a Makoff He said no comparison the Makoff blew the L4 away. Wall of light.

L1.

Don't just BUY a light, mod it! (or have it modded) Get a used L2 at CPMP (probably less than $100) and have THIS done:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2710005#post2710005

I am doing something similar to an L4 so that I can run it on 2 primaries or a 17670 or I can choose to run it on a single cell body for a pocket rocket using an IMR16340. A two stage McClicky would provide the option of a low mode.

They are both, L2 and L4, old LED technology, 100 lumens but poor throw and not such great runtime. They are great lights if you NEVER go outside. At least wait until the annual Shot Show at the end of January(?) to see if they will be updated to new, much better LEDs. Clickies are the future for SureFire. You should be able to find a momentary/twisty as new old stock. Carrot is a bright guy. Get an L1. That is what I would do right now, in your shoes. Or, do what I did, get an E body with a momentary/twisty and put a KX2C head on it for great throw and 120 lumens. That is an E2DL without the spikes.

I highly recommend the Malkoff M60 and the Surefire 9P/6P/Z2/etc. of your choice.

I was one of those types who stuck to the standard Surefire LED modules, due to the fact that they have thermal regulation and that it's a Surefire part, so it's bound to be more reliable than an aftermarket part.

Whelp, good 'ol St. Nick left me a Z2L (I needed the P60L for another light--long story) and a Malkoff M60. I'll cut to the chase by saying that the Malkoff is most thoroughly impressive. It has roughly the same throw as my X300, but with a whole lot more flood.

Since I've only had it for a little over a day, I cannot comment on reliability, other than to say that it's been Surefire-reliable thus far.

No, the Malkoff isn't thermally regulated. However, the heatsink is so massive, I'm not really sure it will make much difference.

Now for price: a Malkoff M60 variation (Gene has a few different ones) is either $49.00 or $55.00. You can find a Surefire 6P on fleaBay for $55.00 (including shipping). So, for +/- $110.00, you can have a light that FAR outperforms an L2 or L4. A big bonus is that you can pick from Malkoffs with three different outputs, two different tints, and floody beam or standard.

I'm of the opinion that excellent heatsinking to prevent the light from getting hot, is more reliable in most situations than a module that overheats and needs thermal protection to not self destruct. The L4 and L2 are fine outdoors, not alot of throw, but your immediate surroundings will be very well lit. The L4 is the PERFECT size as an edc light, unfortunately it uses an older, less efficient LED, as well as having that clickie switch you don't seem to want. The L2 uses the same KL4 head as the L4, they're basically the same light with a different tailswitch. The L2 is a two stage mechanical pressure switch, very nice but it adds more length to the light than I prefer. As far as more recent offerings I really like the L1, it's output isn't very high, but it's got enough for most tasks, is small, and a very handy little package.

The e2dl is out for me due to its electronic switching system, I hate them with a passion, I much prefer mechanical switches, and will continue to do so until they make a two mode pressure sensitive electronic switch If a bit larger light isn't a problem, the C2+ M60 combo is hard to beat.

Yoda that is a mechanical switch. Its the standard Z57 in a different housing.
The electronic switching is done in the head. Any E series body/switch combo will work. E series lego.

My bad Same basic idea though, I don't like the electronic tapdance control system, even if it's only 2 modes.

Yoda4561 said:

The L2 uses the same KL4 head as the L4, they're basically the same light with a different tailswitch.

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The L2 doesn't use the KL4 bezel.
The L2's bezel has no electronics in it - the L2's electronics are inside the body in a roughly 1-SF123A sized "coffin" at the front of the body.

The KL4, like all KL bezels features the electronics it needs inside the bezel itself.

The L4 (KL4) and L2 feature basically the same reflector and the same LuxeonV LED.

I was wondering why the body looked so long in pictures .

I would go with the L2. It has a good balanced feel in the hand and the low beam is very useful. The high beam really lights up whats in front of you. The switch is by far the best SF has to offer IMHO. The L4 is nice light. But it gets hot fast. The L2 gets hot on high. I have both. If I had to choose I would keep the L2.