Need Surefire 3P like LED Light any Ideas?

I have a sweet little firearms set up using one of the forward pistol grip light holders on a Mech Tech CCU 9mm carbine. Only problem is that with the 6P light (with Malk M60) installed it is too long and brings the lens up into the blast area from the muzzle. After a small number of shots the lens starts to get frosted and serously diminishes the light output quality.

So what I want is something shorter like a 3P, it needs a 1" diamater tube so it will fit the light mount and it needs to have a momentary push button not a clickie as well. Run time is no big deal as long as I can get 30 min out of it, want lots of lumens, Q5-R2 range is best and idealy use either a CR123 or a rechargable, but the Lithium is a must. Replaceable glass lens is also a good idea.

If I can get my hands on a 3P or copy, what LA would work with a single CR123? Does the Malk M30 work with Lithium cells?

Other option I thought of was just to get a glass lens that would hold up better to the burning gasses and replace as needed, but I want to find out if I have an option for a shorter light first.

Get yourself a 1x16340 Fivemega body,9p head,and tailcap here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/214333
A Malkoff M-30 will run on anything from 1v-5.5v as per his website.So cr123,rcr123 are ok.

You might check out the Pelican M1 3310. I don't own one, but I learned in a thread that I started a while back that it will accept P60 size drop-ins. It would a poor-mans 3P so-to-speak. Plus, OpticsHQ has them on sale right now for $24 plus shipping found here in CPFMP. I don't know the tube diameter though, you would need to double check it first.

Robert

Even with the 3P, you are likely going to have similar issues with gunpowder residue and blowback.

You might consider getting a light mount and move it further away from the muzzle.

-Trevor

TMedina said:

Even with the 3P, you are likely going to have similar issues with gunpowder residue and blowback.

You might consider getting a light mount and move it further away from the muzzle.

-Trevor

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Actualy an inch or two will make a big difference, I've moved my light and mount back 2 inches and it's much much better, just not a comfortable grip position. I may also mill a comp into the barel venting more gases to the sides to help as well.

metlarules said:

Get yourself a 1x16340 Fivemega body,9p head,and tailcap here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/214333
A Malkoff M-30 will run on anything from 1v-5.5v as per his website.So cr123,rcr123 are ok.

Click to expand...

This sounds like great advice, thank you.

RobertM said:

You might check out the Pelican M1 3310. I don't own one, but I learned in a thread that I started a while back that it will accept P60 size drop-ins. It would a poor-mans 3P so-to-speak. Plus, OpticsHQ has them on sale right now for $24 plus shipping found here in CPFMP. I don't know the tube diameter though, you would need to double check it first.

Robert

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Thanks for your input, I'm gonna go with the fivemega body though, I take quality very serious with my weapon lights. Thanks again for your sugetion though.

FiveMega knockoff 3P body and a Malkoff M30 running off a protected AW RCR123 will make a nice uber tough little light!

Congratulations are in order! :twothumbs

Never had a Pentagon..................

So how is the fit? Really tight so you have good heat transfer?
Any gap at all? Do protected AW's fit in there?

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Sgt. LED said:

Never had a Pentagon..................

So how is the fit? Really tight so you have good heat transfer?
Any gap at all? Do protected AW's fit in there?

Click to expand...

Check out this thread on single cell Frankensteins.

Turns out the Pentagon is a great fit, if you can still find one.

-Trevor

Sgt. LED said:

FiveMega knockoff 3P body and a Malkoff M30 running off a protected AW RCR123 will make a nice uber tough little light!

Congratulations are in order! :twothumbs

Click to expand...

I'm with you on everything except the protected cell. I only use primaries in weapon lights. Having your light go black because of a overdraw on a protected cell could be a real bummer. I'd rather notice dimming and switch out a primary later.

Just my two cents.

Be safe.